95 D90 Fuel System - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old November 8th, 2008, 01:29 PM
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Neil Steinhagen
1990 Perentie GS
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95 D90 Fuel System

Okay, I've searched to my wits end. My 95 D90 won't start.

1 month ago:

My wife goes to start it and it turns over but does not start. Doesn't even try to start.
I get home and immediately think fuel pump. I get in, turn the key to the acc position and hear, click (relay turning on) and then the pump runs. I think, good, fuel pump is okay.
I started by pulling all of the plugs, cleaning them, and blowing out the cyliders because it was most likely flooded. It fired right up. Ran smooth at idle. I let it warm up, got in and took it for a spin. It seemed to really get dogged when I gave it some skinny pedal. By the time I'm around the block, it would not let me give it any gas without almost dying. I limp back home. Now it's running like total crap. It finally dies and can't get it started. I try to start it 4 or 5 more times. Finally, I turn the key back on, listen, and no fuel pump sound. I have the relay sound, no fuel pump sound. I drop the tank, pull the pump get a new one (Carter version) and fly back to VA.

Now:

Now I'm back ready to put everything back together and for kicks, hook up 12V to the old pump and it ran. ARGGHH! Anyways, I put the new fuel pump in, and decided to hook it up electrically before hoisting it up and it wouldn't even run. I checked for 12V at the wiring harness (near the tank) to the fuel pump and no 12V. I tested the relays after being unsuccessful at finding them at a local parts store and they appeared to be working correctly. I understand that they have diodes in them, and was careful about how I hooked them up to 12V to test. But I still could have screwed them up. When I put them (the ECU and Fuel Pump Relays), they sounded normal and gave me no codes with the exception of 02 (ECU reconnected). I had checked it before, but decided to check the fuel pump fuse. Fuse was good. I checked voltage at the fuse. Hooked up the meter, turned the key, and voltage went to 0.1 V when the relay clicked. Strange.

So here are my questions:

1-What is the order: Battery-ECU-relay-fuse, Battery-Fuse? I'm trying to decide where the problem is. When and where should I see 12 V?

2-Is this an ECU problem? I've heard that going after this should be the last thing to go for.

3-Could an electrical problem in between the ECU and the fuel pump fuse give me my symptoms?

Oh, I was careful to replace the wires-plugs in the correct order. I pulled only one at a time.

Thanks guys (and gals).

-Neil
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  #2  
Old November 8th, 2008, 02:18 PM
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Doug Crowther
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"No 12v to the pump"

any chance you popped the fuel pump maxi fuse under the hood ?
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  #3  
Old November 8th, 2008, 04:17 PM
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Neil Steinhagen
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I did a visual check on all of the fuses in the engine compartment. Nothing blown.

I pulled the relay and put some pigtails in there. When I turn the truck on, pins 85 and 86 give me 12V for approx 2-3 seconds, then turn off. That tells me that the ECU is sending 12V to relay to turn it on. Pins 30 to 87 have 12V, so I'm thinking it has to be the relays. I've swapped them and nothing changes. I found a wiring diagram that tells me that the power comes through the ECU to the fuse on the dash. Battery -> ECU -> Relay -> Fuse -> Fuel Pump. So I'm guessing that the problem is from the relay to the fuse.

I hope it's a simple matter of replacing the relays. I had some friends over and they are going to replace them when the relays get here on Tuesday.
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Old November 8th, 2008, 04:46 PM
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Gary
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steinhnj
.... for kicks, hook up 12V to the old pump and it ran. ARGGHH! Anyways, I put the new fuel pump in, and decided to hook it up electrically before hoisting it up and it wouldn't even run. I checked for 12V at the wiring harness (near the tank) to the fuel pump and no 12V... -Neil
Corroded plug end connection at fuel pump? Plug end can look OK, but still be a problem. Did you notice if your fuel guage worked when you hooked up power to the new pump?
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Old November 8th, 2008, 05:38 PM
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Neil Steinhagen
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That's a good point Garth, I did not look at the fuel gauge. I first checked voltage at the plug to the tank and it wasn't reaading 12V. That's what lead me to check at the fuse on the dash which read 0.1 V. I did see a change in the voltage when I turned the key, but it never reached 12V.
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Old November 9th, 2008, 12:12 AM
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Charles Galpin
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Not sure this is helpful, but make sure you have a good ground back there too.
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Old November 9th, 2008, 05:20 AM
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Neil,

Did you jump the pins on the relay plug to make it run and determine if thats your problem?

Just drive the Tdi- ain't got no stinking relay.
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  #8  
Old November 10th, 2008, 09:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maryland 110
Just drive the Tdi- ain't got no stinking relay.
Unless you did not install it/removed it, there is a solenoid (driven by a relay) that will cut diesel input! ;-)
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  #9  
Old November 28th, 2008, 12:25 PM
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Neil Steinhagen
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Back on the road!

Last time I was home I had replaced the fuel pump but was not getting 12V at the harness, nor at the fuse. I replaced both silver relays (fuel and ECU) underneath the passenger seat. Still no worky.

This time I jumpered the imobilizer switch and voila, 12V at the fuse. Some tricky person swapped the green/white clips that hold the fuel lines, so after swapping those, I was getting fuel to the cylinders. Still woulnd't turn over though. I checked spark from the coil, good, checked spark to a spark plug and it was good. Well, there was spark. I checked timing just to make sure that the timing chain didn't jump a tooth. Everything looked good. My father in-law recommended that I replace the distributor cap because the spark should be more blue rather than yellow. Replaced the cap and it fired right up. Ran good under power too.

Back in the cgalpin club: 2 running Rovers.

I did use the Carter fuel pump. Someone had noted that the pump was a bit louder than OE. When I jumpered the two pumps to 12V out of the truck, the Carter was notibly louder, although it had never had fuel through it (lubrication). In the truck, however, I don't really notice a difference. Great option, $69 from NAPA vice $300+ for genuine.
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