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  #1  
Old May 20th, 2014, 04:54 AM
worsethenu
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Dave
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94 Defender won't start

Hey guys,

I came out the other day and tried to start my '94 d90, which i drive everyday and it wouldn't start. The engine would turn but it wouldn't fire. There were no codes in the computer. I checked all the fuses, which were good, and I can hear the fuel pump relay but no pump. I installed a new pump and can hear the pump now coming on when i turn the key.

I tried again and it still won't start. I pulled the fuel pressure regulator and have fuel in the rail when i turn the key to on. I also pulled the #8 spark plug and held it against the block and see spark. So I have fuel in the rail and I have spark but it still won't run. What am i missing?

Please help
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  #2  
Old May 20th, 2014, 08:18 AM
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Bill Adams
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#8 plug is all the way in the back near bulkhead/firewall on the right. Why pull that one? Better try #1 plug located at front left. Or #3 which is easiest.
Try spraying engine start fluid into plenum (Not into air filter. take the hose off the aluminum intake) to see if it wants to catch. DO NOT try to start the engine on starting fluid, just see if it wants to go. If yes then you still have a fuel problem. If no you are still at square 1. You can have fuel in the rail but it has to be up to pressure. No pressure, no go.
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  #3  
Old May 20th, 2014, 08:43 AM
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Russell
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LOL - How many have a can of starting fluid sitting on their desk? Last week I performed this test on one of my site vehicles (2000 Explorer) that was parked for a year. Started right up, ran for 1 second. Bad fuel pump relay.
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  #4  
Old May 22nd, 2014, 02:40 PM
worsethenu
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Dave
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I tried the starter fluid into the take and it seemed to want to start. I just replaced the fuel pressure regulator and I'm still getting the same result. I have gas in the rail. Not sure what to try next?
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  #5  
Old May 22nd, 2014, 02:54 PM
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Russell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by worsethenu View Post
I tried the starter fluid into the take and it seemed to want to start. I just replaced the fuel pressure regulator and I'm still getting the same result. I have gas in the rail. Not sure what to try next?
Remove your fuel filter and splice in an inline pressure gauge to test fuel pressure. You could have a weak fuel pump. These are known to go bad. When you said tried to start, did it start and run even if for 1 second? After changing the fuel pressure regulator, does it still require the starter fluid to start and run for that second?
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  #6  
Old May 22nd, 2014, 04:34 PM
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Other silver relay, ECU, or pick up in distributor.

Do you smell raw gas? That will narrow it down considerably. Just because you have spark does not mean it is enough spark to fire. Weak ignition modules are known to do that.
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  #7  
Old May 22nd, 2014, 05:09 PM
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chris
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weak battery,slow crank time will also do it ! must ck fuel psi
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  #8  
Old May 22nd, 2014, 07:02 PM
worsethenu
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Dave
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So I picked up a set of noid lights and manged to test one injector before the sky opened up. It doesn't look like the injectors are firing. Ill test the rest of them as soon as the rain stops.
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  #9  
Old May 22nd, 2014, 07:11 PM
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chris
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Check the white wire with black tracer coming off the coil follow it to the maf harness. .might be broken or fell of coil
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  #10  
Old May 22nd, 2014, 07:43 PM
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Jason England
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or a wire has been pulled off the alternator ...
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #11  
Old May 22nd, 2014, 08:45 PM
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Coil wire, wet ECU, bad silver relay, I "think" can be bad pickup in distributor.
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  #12  
Old May 23rd, 2014, 03:09 PM
worsethenu
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Dave
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Noid lights show none of the injectors are working. I used a test light and all of the ignition fuses are good. I can't find any broken or disconnected wires. Anyone know where I can an ecu?
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  #13  
Old May 23rd, 2014, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by worsethenu View Post
Noid lights show none of the injectors are working. I used a test light and all of the ignition fuses are good. I can't find any broken or disconnected wires. Anyone know where I can an ecu?
91ish to 95 RRC and disco I 94/95 all work. Pull it and see if it is wet. Switch silver relays into each other's slots and see if the fuel pump dies.
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  #14  
Old May 24th, 2014, 09:51 AM
worsethenu
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Dave
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Is a 95 disco computer plug and play or will it need to be flashed?
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  #15  
Old May 24th, 2014, 10:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by worsethenu View Post
Is a 95 disco computer plug and play or will it need to be flashed?
its plug and pray ... it will work but seeing as the diagnosis here seems to be based on witchcraft i think you are just praying that this will fix it.

This is most likely to be something simple not the ECU failing ... the ECU controls the fuel pump relays so it is working its just not firing the injectors ...

what you have to ask is why wouldn't it fire the injectors ...

on a 95 it knows the engine is turning and firing because of the connection from the coil ... did you check roverteks advice regarding the white wire with black tracer?

Something likely got dislodged in the engine bay rather than an EMP blast managed to kill your ECU.
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #16  
Old May 24th, 2014, 02:58 PM
worsethenu
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Dave
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If all wires appear intact, connected, and not broken. I have spark so that says the coil is working. Is there a test other than look at the wire? Maybe a volt meter test? Test light test? Something? Cause right now all I got is voodoo wotchcraft
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  #17  
Old May 24th, 2014, 04:03 PM
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Jason England
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Quote:
Originally Posted by worsethenu View Post
If all wires appear intact, connected, and not broken. I have spark so that says the coil is working. Is there a test other than look at the wire? Maybe a volt meter test? Test light test? Something? Cause right now all I got is voodoo wotchcraft
ok couple of things to look at ...

take a look at the rollover switch ... make sure it didn't activate. unlikely but its simple to check and would cause a no start.


take a look at the docs here ,,,

http://www.g33.co.uk/images/PDFS/

you need to check you are getting around 9.5volts on pin 39 of the ECU ... that will confirm the signal is actually making it from the coil to the ECU.

Is it possible your truck got wet?
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #18  
Old May 24th, 2014, 04:09 PM
worsethenu
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Dave
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Here is the wire. Its covered in heat wrap so it's not white with a black tracer.
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  #19  
Old May 24th, 2014, 04:12 PM
worsethenu
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Dave
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I assume that rollever switch mean interia shutoff? if so, I dont think the rollover switch was on the '94? If it is i haven't been able to find one and atlantic british doesnt list one for sale (used this as a double check).

------ Follow up post added May 24th, 2014 04:13 PM ------

The truck lives outside so it's very possible rain got in there.
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  #20  
Old May 24th, 2014, 04:31 PM
worsethenu
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Dave
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is there any way to test the computer itself if i pull it?
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