’94 D-90 build-up opinion! - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old November 11th, 2006, 03:39 PM
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Russell Phillips
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’94 D-90 build-up opinion!

I want to first introduce myself. I am not new to the D-90 I have owned it since ’96 and built it up fairly good back in the day. I have one of the original desert rover suspension systems on it.

I had some family problems and I had to make a choice (sell the D-90 or put it in the garage and wait for a better time.) I have had my D-90 in the garage for over three years now. I cringe every time I look at the poor D-90 collecting dust and not getting out to stretching its legs. I want to make this a multipurpose vehicle. I want it to drive well on the road (for a lifted D-90) and be good off-road too. I have a few questions to the group.

The D-90 has new 35” tires on it now and when I last drove it I was experiencing a slight case of death wobble and it would wonder all over the road. I want to correct this so I purchased a complete suspension bushing kit. I want to get the D-90 a little more lift. I am thing of putting Rovertym springs on. I want the 3” springs and I am going to get the offset radius arms to correct the caster and help the wondering problem. I have checked all the steering components and they look and feel tight. I am also going to get the adjustable pan hard rod. I will either just reuse my Rancho 9000 shocks or get some new Bilsteins.

The question I have for the group is what do you think of this set up and my plans for the d-90. I would like to hear people’s opinions on different suspension setups. The second question is what is recommended besides change all of the fluids in the rover and put a new battery in it before I put it back into service?

Thanks again for the help and suggestions.

Russ
AA Yellow ’94 D-90 #891
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  #2  
Old November 11th, 2006, 11:43 PM
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David Shechter
97' D90 SW 2.8L diesel
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I recommend the RoverTym springs with 2 thumbs up, mine are perfectly paired with a set of Bilstein 7100. I run without anti-sway bars and can drive around town and on the highway without issue, awesome suspension set-up. At 3" you may also need the RoverTym castor corrected swivel balls, start with the radius arms and see how the geometry looks.

Good luck with getting it back on the road.
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  #3  
Old November 13th, 2006, 11:25 PM
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Russell Phillips
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Sheki,

Thanks, that is kind of what I figured. I am going to start with just the radius arms and go from there. I too have tossed the sway bars long ago. How big are your springs? I am adding some pictures of the D-90 because threads without pictures suck. These pictures are not high quality because they are from my camera phone, but here they are.

Russ
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  #4  
Old November 14th, 2006, 12:19 AM
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kevin
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I'll say it before someone else says it, change the Panhard rod bushings. I had death wobbles big time and it ended up being the panhard rod bushings. Easy fix and cheap. It could easily be something else but more times than not it ends up being this simple fix. Welcome back.
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  #5  
Old November 14th, 2006, 08:32 AM
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I have to agree with Kevin. The same thing happened to me turned out the Pan Hard Rod bolt was loose.
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  #6  
Old November 14th, 2006, 10:32 AM
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Bryan Tate
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I just did the same setup last week....did the 3" rovertym with the extended OME shocks.
I had already done the rear link, did the front radius arms with the springs.
I also found a DII double cardon prop shaft, had it rebuilt and used the DII flange for the transfer case. Don't forget to extend the brake lines also.
Oh, I like it alot. It is a bit bouncy, but I am getting used to it. Went from the OME 751/764 and gained 2" from those.
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  #7  
Old November 14th, 2006, 05:50 PM
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Russell Phillips
1994 Defender 90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kellymoe
I'll say it before someone else says it, change the Panhard rod bushings. I had death wobbles big time and it ended up being the panhard rod bushings. Easy fix and cheap. It could easily be something else but more times than not it ends up being this simple fix. Welcome back.

Thanks guys I have new panhard rod bushings already and I will be starting to put them in this next week. I hope that with all new bushings in the suspension the death wobble will be gone.

Russ
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  #8  
Old November 14th, 2006, 06:04 PM
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Tony Brooks
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Is that a tickford top that still fits?!?!?

Oh, to add some value to my post, when you put the radius arms on, there's a good chance you'll need to clearance the bulkhead outrigger at the bottom of its frame mount.
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  #9  
Old November 15th, 2006, 12:26 AM
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Russell Phillips
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Abrooks
Is that a tickford top that still fits?!?!?
Yes that is an original tickford top that still fits perfectly. I use the hardtop in the winters and the tickford top in the spring and fall.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Abrooks
Oh, to add some value to my post, when you put the radius arms on, there's a good chance you'll need to clearance the bulkhead outrigger at the bottom of its frame mount.
I am not familiar with the bulkhead outrigger. Where exactly is the bulkhead outrigger? I know what the bulkhead is. Sorry if this is a stupid question.
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  #10  
Old November 15th, 2006, 06:26 PM
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Russell Phillips
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I spent some time wrenching on the D-90 last night. I removed the spare tire carrier to combat some rust issues. Wow all I can say is that rust really sucks. I attempted to remove the gas tank skid plate and rear bumper. I successfully used half a can of Knock ‘em loose and still broke about half of the bolts off. I have the gas tank unbolted and sitting on jack stands. I am replacing it with one from Dave Lucas at Slick Rock Fabrication.

One question I have for the group is should I replace the fuel relay and fuel pump while I have the gas tank skid plate off as preventative maintaince, seeing as the D-90 is now 13 years old. I have heard horror stories about people cutting an access hole in the floor of their D-90 to gain access to the fuel relay. I do not want to remove the gas tank skid plate again or cut a hole in the floor of my D-90.

While I was persuading the bolts out of the rear bumper I broke all four of the bolts located behind the receiver hitch that mount to rear cross member. I broke the bolt heads off and the shaft of the bolt is still sticking through the rear bumper. There is not enough to grab with vice grips. So I drilled and drilled and now I am to the point that I can not remove the rear bumper by had but I feel I can attach a strap to another vehicle and give it a very slight tug and it will come off. I am nervous about this because I do not want to send the bumper sailing through

Has anyone had this similar problem when removing the rear bumper? What did you do to remove it?

What tread lock should I use to prevent the new bolts from seizing with rust? Or should I use some other product?
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  #11  
Old November 15th, 2006, 06:58 PM
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Marc
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And I thought I was having a hard time with my hitch install.. Well don't despair, just take it a step at a time, do not
force the bumper off by pulling it with another truck!. If all the heads are broken off, the bumper will come off. Use that PB spray (soak it) and spray the length of the joined surface of the bumper. Wait 15 minutes, use a rubber hammer, and tap it off. Make sure you know where that bumper is going to fall, make sure it doesn't chip the truck.

If your tank is on stand, disconnect the fuel filler hoses, and fuel line behind it. Drop the tank carefully, so that you do not pull out the fuel pump and sensor wires. Just enough so that you can get behind the cross member. The center 4 cross member/hitch bolts should be unscrewed from behind the cross member, not the front. Anyway spray PB liberaly on all the bolts, even the broken ones. Let it soak for a while, spray again, let it soak. Try to undo the nuts from behind.
If the nuts come off, you might be able to punch the bolts thru. If not then you will have to drill and tap in a bolt retractor. If that does not work, drill through both walls of the cross member, almost the full width of the bolt. When there is just a thin layer left of steel in the theads, sometimes drill on reverse will spin the rest of thin steel (whats left of the bolt) out.

Obviously you will have replace all the bolts. If you are keeping the bumper, and will use it for hitch and recovery, use grade 8 bolts (zinc plated) , washers, and nuts. Grease or spray the holes in the cross member. Use anti-seizing compound on the bolt threads, bolt it up, once bolted, spray Waxoyl, or corrosion X on the inside of the cross member
and the bolt ends and nuts.

Same for the tank bolts..

Replace fuel pump ect.. if it aint' broke..

Good luck.
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  #12  
Old November 15th, 2006, 07:09 PM
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Neil McCauley
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Hmm well last time I had my tank out I went ahead and changed the fuel pump. it's really not that bad, just gotta have a friend to help if you don't drain the tank (or just drive it til its dry) and disconnect all the breathers. One less thing to worry about.

Neil
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  #13  
Old November 15th, 2006, 07:26 PM
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Russell Phillips
1994 Defender 90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thewap
And I thought I was having a hard time with my hitch install.. Well don't despair, just take it a step at a time, do not
force the bumper off by pulling it with another truck!. If all the heads are broken off, the bumper will come off. Use that PB spray (soak it) and spray the length of the joined surface of the bumper. Wait 15 minutes, use a rubber hammer, and tap it off. Make sure you know where that bumper is going to fall, make sure it doesn't chip the truck.

If your tank is on stand, disconnect the fuel filler hoses, and fuel line behind it. Drop the tank carefully, so that you do not pull out the fuel pump and sensor wires. Just enough so that you can get behind the cross member. The center 4 cross member/hitch bolts should be unscrewed from behind the cross member, not the front. Anyway spray PB liberaly on all the bolts, even the broken ones. Let it soak for a while, spray again, let it soak. Try to undo the nuts from behind.
If the nuts come off, you might be able to punch the bolts thru. If not then you will have to drill and tap in a bolt retractor. If that does not work, drill through both walls of the cross member, almost the full width of the bolt. When there is just a thin layer left of steel in the theads, sometimes drill on reverse will spin the rest of thin steel (whats left of the bolt) out.

Obviously you will have replace all the bolts. If you are keeping the bumper, and will use it for hitch and recovery, use grade 8 bolts (zinc plated) , washers, and nuts. Grease or spray the holes in the cross member. Use anti-seizing compound on the bolt threads, bolt it up, once bolted, spray Waxoyl, or corrosion X on the inside of the cross member
and the bolt ends and nuts.

Same for the tank bolts..

Replace fuel pump ect.. if it aint' broke..

Good luck.

Thanks for the reply. I will try this and hopefully soon I will have the rear bumper off the rover. I really like the rear bumpers and I am planning on reusing it. I know it takes away on the departure angle but it is so solid and just slides right down off of the rocks. I think I will be keeping it. I will keep you all posted on the process.

Russ
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  #14  
Old December 12th, 2006, 02:37 PM
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Daniel Marcello
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Rovertym Suspension Kit

Has anyone bought and run a Rovertym suspension kit? I was looking into getting one. It seems like it comes with everything needed. i mean i would get the pan hard rod and caster swivel balls with it just because i know i will be needing them down the line.

Or would it be better just to get the springs and shocks separately?

thanks!
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  #15  
Old December 12th, 2006, 03:52 PM
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evilfij
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Dan,

Rovertym makes nice stuff for sure. If it were me, I would just run a 1.5in-2in OME MD rear/ OME HD Front (or reuse your stock rear springs in front)

Then get a fuel tank skid plate, sliders, HD drag link and track rod (or sleeves for them), front diff guard and HD trailing arms.

That is a great set up, without the issues and other costs involved with a full 3in suspension lift (ie two new driveshafts).

As far as shocks, you will get numerous opinions, but for the time being you can run the ones you have. Maybe run a two inch extention or 10in shocks in the rear. I am partial to bilstiens but other have luck with OME or even rancho or other cheaper brands.

What you have to do is figure out what you want to do with the truck. My experience is east coast, 33s, locked, 2in lift and you can do most of what you want with ease. It is hard to find places near us where you can use much bigger other than rauch creek or paragon, and even there, you can do most with slight mods. This is not to say 35-37s, 3in, and full suspension is not cool, it is, just you are giving up a lot on road and cost wise for what is hard to find a place to use.

Ron
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  #16  
Old December 12th, 2006, 04:21 PM
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Daniel Marcello
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Thanks Ron!

I never drive my truck during the week. I will take it out on the weekend just to stroll around town. I will also drive upstate to see my parents, so that will be a good 3 hour drive. But once I’m there, my brother and I go offroading all the time. So I mean I would consider my driving, 50% on-road 50% off-road

Mainly what I want is 35s with a lift to go with it. Nothing too crazy, but something that can handle some good off road abuse but still take me 3 hours on the highway without having my kidneys drop out!

So im feeling a 2 inch spring with bilstiens with 35s would work fine right? I have bilstiens on there now and I like them. Plus I plan to get a RockWare bumper and winch, and SD rack, lockers. The weight will increase a bit. Would there be a big difference in my POE top to Soft-top in the summer time? I don’t think so. Roll bars weight about the same as that top.
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Old December 12th, 2006, 04:42 PM
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why 35"
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  #18  
Old December 12th, 2006, 04:55 PM
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Daniel Marcello
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rover4x4
why 35"
I read on these boards that a lot of guys run 33s and wish that just went ahead and got 35s. plus i would rather be set and happy with my setup then to be not happy with it and then have to redo it again within a year. just looking out for my long term goals.

what do you run?
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  #19  
Old December 13th, 2006, 08:22 AM
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stock, im a posuer
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