93 NAS D-110 Diff oil and Hub Seal Questions - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old October 11th, 2007, 02:10 PM
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Alan Hollander
1993 NAS Defender 110
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93 NAS D-110 Diff oil and Hub Seal Questions

I'm a new member of D-90 but have been a member of SOLAROS for several years. Anyway, I have a 93 NAS D-110 that I'm not afraid to wheel. I think I probably met a few of you recently at MAR. Anyway, at MAR several of us diagnosed what we think is a hub seal leak (Thanks again Jack and Tyrone). What caused the seal to leak is anyone's guess but what caused oil to actually come out of it was because I believe I got some creek water in my diff when I was wheeling which would explain why my oil level was high enough to have it leaking out of my wheel (Water is heavier than oil right?). Anyway, my Saturday morning project is to drain and replace the diff oil and replace the hub seal(s). Before I begin this project, I thought I would consult with the D-90 Guru's to make sure everything is Kosher...

Question 1: Regarding the diff oil - What is recommended for a 93 NAS D-110? 90 weight??? I appreciate guesses but someone who knows exactly what to use would be preferred. Also, am I an idiot to wait until Saturday to do this or should I do it ASAP.

Question 2: Before I purchase new hub seals I wanted to get any second and third opinions on if that is the problem. As you can see from the photo below, I had oil leaking out of the wheel (see green arrow). The oil itself was actually dripping off of the black rubber cap just to the right of the green arrow.

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...OilLeakPic.jpg

It was only on the outside and fortunatly not on the inside of the hub where it could have contaminated my drum brakes. Does anyone have experience with this on a Defender?

If it is the hub seal that needs replacing, I want to make sure I buy the right parts to fix it. Is this what I'm looking for?
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/FRC8222.cfm

The part description up top say's 1987-1989 but underneath - it shows Defender 110 | '93 so I'm assuming this will fit my 93 NAS D-110.

If I am replacing the outer seal, should I go ahead and replace the inner seal as well? For some reason Atlantic British shows two that fit my rig with two different prices.
This one is $11.95
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/FRC8221.cfm

And this one is $6.95
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/FTC2783.cfm

The $5.00 difference doesn't matter to me but I want to make sure I get the right part.

Question 3: I am hoping that the seal changeout will be quick and painless as I don't believe I have to touch the drum brakes. If anyone has done this project before and can give me any words of advice, I would appreicate it. Any and all advice (even sarcastic ribbing) is welcomed....

Next project after this - Diagnosing the "Mystery Rattle" I came back from MAR with... Stay tuned...
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  #2  
Old October 11th, 2007, 03:07 PM
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90wt is fine, synthetic or not. If it is leaking from behind the dust cap it is the inner seal that is bad, but it likley only that the water got in and presurized the tube so I would just drain and refill and see what leaks (on salisburies the pinion seal always leaks because it is LEATHER not rubber!)....
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  #3  
Old October 11th, 2007, 06:20 PM
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Alan Hollander
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Thanks... Any need to mess with the brakes or is it all infront of the drums?
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  #4  
Old October 11th, 2007, 06:28 PM
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The inner seal is all the way in. You need to pull the spindle so you have to take everything off.
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Old October 11th, 2007, 09:11 PM
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Alan Hollander
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I was afraid you'd say that... Any threads on this site that talk about how to do that?
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  #6  
Old October 11th, 2007, 09:29 PM
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mark kellgren
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you have an e-manual? if not, here's a link: http://www.defendersource.com/forum/Link removed. Links to illegal downloads of copywrited material are prohibited.
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  #7  
Old October 11th, 2007, 11:39 PM
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Alan Hollander
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Link didn't work but I do have a copy of the shop manuels coming in tomorrow... That should help... Any advice still welcome...
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  #8  
Old October 13th, 2007, 01:37 PM
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steve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij
90wt is fine, synthetic or not. If it is leaking from behind the dust cap it is the inner seal that is bad, but it likley only that the water got in and presurized the tube so I would just drain and refill and see what leaks (on salisburies the pinion seal always leaks because it is LEATHER not rubber!)....

Anyone found a way to have it not leak? I tried replacing the flang and seal with no luck.... since I'm running the hubs wet now the over fill is causing more leak...
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  #9  
Old October 13th, 2007, 03:52 PM
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Peter Sherman
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Keith I believe he has a d60 pn for the sals pinion seal
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  #10  
Old October 15th, 2007, 01:07 PM
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Alan Hollander
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Changed out front and rear hub seals this weekend and no more leaking... And I did not have to mess with the drum brakes as both the outter and inner seals are located on the hub. I did end up taking the drum's off to clean them but it wasn't necessary for the fix. After filling the diff back up with oil I parked it on a large angle and not a single drip...
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  #11  
Old October 16th, 2007, 02:05 AM
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The inner seal is behind the spindle. How did you get to it without taking off the drum?

Ron
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  #12  
Old October 16th, 2007, 09:14 AM
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Charles Galpin
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On my '84, the drum and hub are a single unit. You have to pull the entire assembly to get to the inner seal. But if the inner seal was leaking it would have contaminated the brakes wouldn't it?

Mark, could you PM me with that manual link. Also what's the best paper manual to buy for a early defender 110?

Ok, so stupid question time, but I don't appear to have an outer seal. The bearings also look like they are being lubricated with gear oil and not grease. So is this how they work? The diff oil lubes the bearings? The end caps don't have a seal either so I guess I'm just unclear as to what stops the oil leaking out the splines of the end cap - just the dust cap?

From the inside out, the hub has

inner seal
inner bearing
cavity in the center
outer bearing
washers and lock nuts
end cap that bolts the axle shaft to the hub.

I can take pictures if I am not being clear. It wasn't leaking but I want to understand how it is supposed to work and make sure I put it all back correctly after I do the brakes.

thanks
charles
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  #13  
Old October 16th, 2007, 03:33 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Hehe, turns out my drums were just rusted/stuck on to the hubs. Had to beat the crap out of them to seperate.

But still looking for a manual, and my original question still stands about the lubrication.

thanks
charles
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  #14  
Old October 17th, 2007, 06:35 AM
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Gren Thomas
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HI Chaps, the oil should be EP90 - 90 weight? as for the leak from the hub, there is no oil seal on the drive shaft, in the rear for example oil can travel along its length from the diff to the drive member where the rubber cap is pushed on.

oil leaks are here are normally due to wear in the drive member splines or the axle case becoming pressurised if you have a ball valve on the top of the axle case remove it carefully and shake it you should hear a ball ratting, no rattle means the ball is sized, you should be alble to blow though it or if you have breather pipes blow through them.

Also the black rubber cap acts as a seal and when they get old or damaged they leak.

check for worn splines on the drive member, jack up wheel remove rubber cap and with handbrake on and car in gear move the wheel if you can see play in the splines replace the drive member before it starts to clunk.


Regards All
Gren
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  #15  
Old October 17th, 2007, 08:03 AM
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Charles Galpin
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Thanks Gren, very useful info and matches what I am seeing on mine.

By drive member do you mean the end cap piece that connects the axle shaft to the hub?

I'll take some pictures of mine to get opinions, but mine does have some play in it, and also the splines on the axle shafts themselves - not sure if it's enough to be concerned about or not but let me get some pictures.

thanks
charles
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  #16  
Old October 17th, 2007, 09:01 AM
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Gren Thomas
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HI Charles yes the drive member is the end bit held on with 5 bolts with rubber cap on the end
the end caps get damaged easily what you can do is use discovery drive shaft that have a "mushroom" drive member welded to the drive shaft. presto not more missing or leaking drive shafts
manuals:
http://www.tukojack.com/Download.htm
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regards
Gren
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  #17  
Old October 23rd, 2007, 02:46 AM
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Mike Hammond
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Check that the breather on top of the Axle is n't blocked and routed to a higher than you dare wade height then the axle shouldn't take on water in the first place and won't pressurise if it does
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