88 110 3.5L wont idle - Defender Source
Defender Source  

Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions


Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old February 17th, 2016, 05:44 PM
gunsanroses91
Status: Offline
patrick donovan
97 discovery 300tdi
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: las vegas, nv
Posts: 25
88 110 3.5L wont idle

I just purchased my first defender a few days ago and i couldnt get it to start this morning. It always took a few mins of choke to get it started and warmed up but i had the choke all the way out and the only way it would keep idling is by giving it a bit of gas, but as soon as i let off it died. I tried 5-6 times to start but it would not idle. Is there any thing i can check or look for? I am good with my 300tdi disco but i know nothing about carbs and distributors.

thanks for any help!

edit: looked through rave but cant find much info. not sure what im looking for exactly.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2  
Old February 17th, 2016, 09:04 PM
Roverlab
Status: Offline
Trevor Griffiths
85 110, 92 110, 92 RR, 06 LR3
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Elizabethotwn, PA
Posts: 1,646
Stromberg carbs? Check diaphragms and dash pot oils? What have you checked so far?
__________________
Roverlab is now British 4x4 Specialists.
Email is
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Same place, new dogs.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old February 17th, 2016, 09:17 PM
fruitpunch
Status: Offline
Marc Brouwer
66 IIa 88 Perkins powered
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Stone Ridge, NY
Posts: 231
Registry
yep one of my strombergs doesn't hold oil.... runs like crap need to fix it. but 1988 should be dual SU's
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #4  
Old February 17th, 2016, 10:04 PM
gunsanroses91
Status: Offline
patrick donovan
97 discovery 300tdi
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: las vegas, nv
Posts: 25
Thats something i keep seeing. How can i tell if its a Stromberg or SU? It is a RSA truck if that helps. I have not checked much mostly because i dont know what im looking at. I looked over all the lines attached to the carbs and they look fine. Truck started up and idles fine now(Haven't touched anything) and now sounds like its misfiring if i give it any power.

Do i need to run the fuel pump for a certain amount of time before starting? i did wait like 30 seconds this time.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old February 17th, 2016, 10:41 PM
fruitpunch
Status: Offline
Marc Brouwer
66 IIa 88 Perkins powered
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Stone Ridge, NY
Posts: 231
Registry
Stromberg 175 are marked as such posting a picture we can tell you. If you unscrew the center of the carb does the bottom have oil on it yes or no. I run electronic dizzy and not points made a big difference
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old February 17th, 2016, 10:53 PM
gunsanroses91
Status: Offline
patrick donovan
97 discovery 300tdi
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: las vegas, nv
Posts: 25
The thing on the end of the stick has a very light oil on it, barely any at all. Sorry for the terminology hah! Ill post a pic of the carbs.

------ Follow up post added February 17th, 2016 10:56 PM ------

Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old February 18th, 2016, 06:43 AM
The Dro
Status: Offline
Dro
1988 Ninety
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Annandale, VA
Posts: 6,682
Registry
Patrick,

Check these guys out...

Tech tips
__________________
Mine is NTO... It was new, Now I'm Taking it Off.
Quote:
Online speculation will not replace onsite inspection.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old February 18th, 2016, 06:51 AM
1of40's Avatar
1of40
Status: Offline
1of40
NAS 97SW & 83 One Ten Tdi
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Potomac Falls & Wintergreen, Virginia
Posts: 6,075
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by gunsanroses91 View Post
The thing on the end of the stick has a very light oil on it, barely any at all. Sorry for the terminology hah! Ill post a pic of the carbs. ------ Follow up post added February 17th, 2016 10:56 PM ------
fuel pump sounds like to me.
__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old February 18th, 2016, 06:56 AM
Rocky's Avatar
Rocky
Status: Offline
Chris
72 + D1 drivetrain
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Colonies Aka Boston
Posts: 8,762
Look like SU carbs, but then that's all I grew up with.
__________________
A friend of mine runs a land rover / range rover specialty repair shop. Based on his experience, they are capable of stopping anywhere, anytime, at any cost.

I don't know about the brakes, only their unreliability.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old February 18th, 2016, 07:34 AM
fruitpunch
Status: Offline
Marc Brouwer
66 IIa 88 Perkins powered
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Stone Ridge, NY
Posts: 231
Registry
they are SU's as 1988 should be
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old February 18th, 2016, 01:11 PM
gunsanroses91
Status: Offline
patrick donovan
97 discovery 300tdi
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: las vegas, nv
Posts: 25
Put a little ATF in the pots but it overfilled immediately, so i guess it was full. I tried to start again this morning before work and again it would not idle. I had to give it some gas pedal to get it started after the first try.

Should i start with something like this first?

IGN TUNE UP KIT V8 3.5/3.9/4.2L RANGE ROVER CLASSIC, DEFENDER, RNK9335 - Kit Configuration Page

thanks for the tech tips also!
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old February 18th, 2016, 01:22 PM
Roverlab
Status: Offline
Trevor Griffiths
85 110, 92 110, 92 RR, 06 LR3
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Elizabethotwn, PA
Posts: 1,646
You could try removing the big alloy elbows from the carb inlets, spray a little something flammable like carb cleaner while someone holds the throttle near idle, a little bit at a time.
If the engine speed picks up considerably and/or smooths out, it's a diagnostic start....
Please keep in mind that using an aerosol propelled flammable product is dangerous. Dont set yourself or the Rover on fire.
__________________
Roverlab is now British 4x4 Specialists.
Email is
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Same place, new dogs.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old February 18th, 2016, 02:09 PM
LRover's Avatar
LRover
Status: Offline
J. Michael McCaig
D90 ST, LR110, Series IIa, RRC
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: VA
Posts: 479
10w oil is what's best to use in the carbs but ATF shouldn't hurt anything. It should just cover the the piston on the bottom of what you took out. It may also be a problem with the choke cable connection or linkage as it should go to fast idle with the choke cable pulled out. If you take more pictures, try to get one of the linkage side of the carbs. It takes a while for the engine to warm up and idle normally on a carb equipped engine. Not like fuel injection where you can turn the key and go.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old February 18th, 2016, 02:27 PM
gunsanroses91
Status: Offline
patrick donovan
97 discovery 300tdi
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: las vegas, nv
Posts: 25
I will post more pics tonight and try using some carb cleaner to see what the idle does.

also forgot to mention it reeks of gas. even when it was driving good it smelled of gas in the cabin. does that indicate anything?

thanks!
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old February 18th, 2016, 04:07 PM
Uncle Douglas's Avatar
Uncle Douglas
Status: Online
Doug Crowther
A defender in every driveway-motto
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Gods Country- Central Virginia
Posts: 11,830
Registry
Trevor hit it but are the diaphragms intact ie no holes ?
__________________
Good judgement comes from experience,experience comes from bad judgement.

Dividing Creek Imports
Worldwide Vehicle Shipment and Importation Service
Restoration & Modification work


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

410.693.1391


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old February 18th, 2016, 04:11 PM
SidewaysWaffle's Avatar
SidewaysWaffle
Status: Offline
Dan Capo
Loading..
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Westchester, NY
Posts: 132
Quote:
Originally Posted by gunsanroses91 View Post
I will post more pics tonight and try using some carb cleaner to see what the idle does.

also forgot to mention it reeks of gas. even when it was driving good it smelled of gas in the cabin. does that indicate anything?

thanks!
Yes. It sounds like you're flooding it bad(possibly fouling the plugs at this point).

A few months ago I bought my second defender and it has the 3.5 as well. It's a PITA to keep happy on cold starts. I went through the same issue when I first got it, I was flooding it on start. Let it sit a while before retrying, never leave the choke all the way out once she's running. Hopefully this helps some.

On a side note my choke knob broke off yesterday so I feel some of your pain GL
__________________
"A man who works with his hands is a laborer; a man who works with his hands and his brain is a craftsman; but a man who works with his hands and his brain and his heart is an artist."
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old February 19th, 2016, 02:24 PM
DPdotCOM's Avatar
DPdotCOM
Status: Offline
Dan Pollock
1983 Defender 3 Door
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: SoHo, NYC
Posts: 279
I feel like the 3.5s are constantly running rich and it's flood it a bit on start or you'll struggle to get it started. I know I feel like I'm choking mine more than I probably should.

Given that, should we be cleaning the plugs more frequently than normal or just re-tuning the carbs as often as we can bear?
__________________
Seafoam Green 1983 110 3 Door - sometimes SW, current ST.
Spent it's working years in France, it's mid-life crisis in The Hamptons, and now its golden years in Washington, D.C.
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old February 19th, 2016, 05:09 PM
gunsanroses91
Status: Offline
patrick donovan
97 discovery 300tdi
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: las vegas, nv
Posts: 25
So what is the proper starting procedure? Before this all happend all i would do is start it and pull the choke out a little until the rpms started to raise.
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old February 19th, 2016, 05:30 PM
cowboy
Status: Offline
steven
'84 110 & '90 127 LHD 2-carb V8's
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: USA
Posts: 713
Not sure that there is any such a thing as a proper starting procedure for any 25+ yr old car. Mine always starts when cold without giving it any gas & with the choke all of the way out (ie, fully choked). Then, I quickly start revving it a bit while I gradually release the choke. I've never choked it when it's hot - hot, I usually quickly hit the gas pedal about halfway down as I crank it & it almost always starts right up. Ethanol-free gas seemed to help a hot starting issue that I was having for awhile, but who knows? During that episode, I usually had to floor the gas pedal to get it to start when hot (I hated the idea of doing that, but that's what it took to get it home). Ethanol-free is probably a good habit for you to get into, if you have access to it in your orbit...

These threads sometimes seem to have an undertone suggesting that it's a negative thing to use the choke. The question is above my pay grade, but I'm not convinced that it's a negative or that a need to choke it on full choke suggests that there is something wrong with a rig.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old February 19th, 2016, 05:32 PM
DPdotCOM's Avatar
DPdotCOM
Status: Offline
Dan Pollock
1983 Defender 3 Door
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: SoHo, NYC
Posts: 279
Yeah, I'm similar to Steven. I turn key to get the fuel pump on, give it a couple stabs of the gas pedal, full choke, turn it over, and usually give it a little blips of the throttle till it catches. Once it catches, I let out the choke to maybe 30-50% for a minute or two. That's usually all it takes, though sometimes it's a little rough so I'll give it a few revs or a few seconds of sustained, 15% throttle and that gets it idling fine.

When warm, no choke, just start with a few blips of the throttle.
__________________
Seafoam Green 1983 110 3 Door - sometimes SW, current ST.
Spent it's working years in France, it's mid-life crisis in The Hamptons, and now its golden years in Washington, D.C.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions

Tags
110, idle

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Idle Control Valve (idle stepper motor) fleabus For Sale - Parts 3 June 28th, 2009 12:13 AM
Yet another Truck Wont start... arbik Defender Technical Discussions 12 September 21st, 2006 03:51 AM
HELP - D90 wont start....going camping on Thurs TurkD90 Defender Technical Discussions 6 July 25th, 2006 09:49 AM
Wont run at temp Neo Defender Technical Discussions 12 February 24th, 2006 06:54 PM
new bfg wont balance mattdh Wanted 7 October 27th, 2003 12:25 PM

» Defender Registry

Broken

Z.G

KT

rkinsk
Add your Defender

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:34 PM.


Copyright