87 defender 200tdi not running, HELP! - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old January 30th, 2015, 05:24 PM
zrpeterson19
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Zachery Peterson
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87 defender 200tdi not running, HELP!

I am new to the forum so bear with me, long story short i am stationed in germany bought my defender in England while driving it back to germany it overheated. i had to get it towed back. My Defender 90 is a 1987 motor is a 200tdi i beileve from a 1990. once i got it back i saw that it was leaking coolant from the head bolt on the right side around cylinder 3, i replaced the head gasket and have put it back together and now it will not start at all, cranks over sounds like it fires hear and there. so far ive tried bleeding air at the injectors replaced all four glow plugs i beileve it is getting fuel but it doesnt seem very high pressured just dribbling out. i cant find access to a compression tester. i need my defender running asap! any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
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  #2  
Old January 30th, 2015, 05:26 PM
javelinadave
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Did the stop solinoid wire come loose off the back of the high pressure fuel pump?
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  #3  
Old January 30th, 2015, 05:30 PM
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Well.... First you need to make sure the timing is set correctly. I assume you followed all proper procedure changing the head gasket and checked out the head fully? Valve lash set and such?

If all that is good, crack the injector lines at all four injectors and crank over until you have good flow, and then tighten one. It should catch, then tighten one at a time.
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  #4  
Old January 30th, 2015, 05:31 PM
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If the above shows no fuel flow, you need to test the lift pump. Simple loosen the filter bleed and crank. Lots of fuel should come out.
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Old January 30th, 2015, 05:40 PM
zrpeterson19
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thanks for the quick replys stop soilnoid wire is good i check that, timeing is good, the head all looked fine when we inspected it. I will try what you suggested with the fuel on monday and post my results!
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Old January 31st, 2015, 10:30 AM
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Changing the head gasket does not change anything about the timing,that would only be suspect if you changed the timing belt.
It has to be fuel related. When checking the fuel solenoid wire did you check to see if it is getting 12v when the key is in the run position or just check that its plugged in ? As the ignition switches start to die they typically kill the switched power to the pump solenoid. This can be bypassed with a simple toggle to get it running. Another killer is the actual solenoid switch on the pump. Its basically an electromagnet that operates a plunger. Its a cheap part and they die frequently. Some die stuck open so that the only way to turn the truck off is to choke the truck out ie dump the clutch while holding the brakes in a high gear. Others die stuck closed so that no fuel makes it through the injection pump. When that happens the trail fix is to unscrew the solenoid and pull the plunger and spring out so the truck can run.
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  #7  
Old January 31st, 2015, 10:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
Changing the head gasket does not change anything about the timing. That would only be suspect if you changed the timing belt.
That's what I was thinking. I still believe it is a fuel issue.
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  #8  
Old January 31st, 2015, 10:36 AM
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You said your solenoid wire is good - do you know if the solenoid is good? Have you had someone get in the car and turn the key to hear if it clicks?
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Old January 31st, 2015, 10:40 AM
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What procedure did you follow when you torqued the head bolts?
Since the heads are aluminum, they will almost certainly warp upon overheating.
Did you have the head resurfaced to make it flat again?
Did you replace the crush washers for the injectors?
Did you mark the location of each steel injector line so you were able to connect the correct line to the correct injector?
Did you adjust the valves?
Did you replace the manifold gaskets?
Did you change the fuel filter?
Do you have the older style sandwich fuel filter or the spin-on?
Troubleshooting at a distance is not easy, but your answers will go along way to provide some clues.

We can schedule a call to assist once we know these answers.
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  #10  
Old January 31st, 2015, 10:42 AM
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With the ignition on and you pull the wire off the stop solenoid you should feel/hear an audible click as you put the wire on and off the terminal (and you should see a very slight spark as you touch them together).. If that happens you have power and solenoid operation..if any doubt you can remove the solenoid plunger and put it back together and it should start...keep in mind you will have to stall the engine out to stop it if you do this,..as previously mentioned, crack the injector lines and crank...most fuel lift pumps have a hand prime lever underneath so you can bleed air and check their operations..my bet would be that you have timing off...hopefully just on the pump timing..
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  #11  
Old February 3rd, 2015, 12:21 PM
zrpeterson19
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well it has been a disappointing day, after trouble shooting some more i pulled the injectors and the injector on cylinder 4 was covered in oil. pulled the head off and there was coolant in the rest of the cylinders. im assuming that it is cracked so time to shop for a new one. i dont think it would be worth my time and money to get it looked at. im going to buy all new parts along with my new head any other advice would be appreciated, any one know where to buy a good reliable head from? ill post pictures soon
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  #12  
Old February 3rd, 2015, 12:29 PM
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http://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/acatalog/200Tdi.html
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  #13  
Old February 3rd, 2015, 12:49 PM
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A used parts option is Foley's in Essex, England. Speak to Stuart Foley and mention how you got his name. He'll take very good care of you if he can.

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Old February 3rd, 2015, 01:46 PM
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I purchased a head from Turner's about 2 years ago and it's been rock solid. Quality place.
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