83 Defender 110 Wire Problem - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old March 4th, 2015, 01:33 PM
Defenderdude
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83 Defender 110 Wire Problem

Hello,
I have a 83 110 2.25 liter diesel that has some kind of electrical problem. The problem is the brake light, all turning lights, and both the fuel gauge and water temp gauge are not working, they all seem to run on the same 10A fuse which is good so no problem there, I have no idea what it could be. Looking at the wiring diagram none of them share a ground that I can see so I'm not sure if a bad ground could be the problem. The starter was just changed, but before I changed the starter I had to jump the wires on the starter to get it to started so I could get home, could that have been the problem? Please help as I am out of ideas.

------ Follow up post added March 4th, 2015 12:35 PM ------

Forgot to say when I jumped the starter it didn't blow the fuse, and everything work prior to starter change
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  #2  
Old March 4th, 2015, 01:37 PM
javelinadave
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Is it a blade or a glass fuse? I had a similar issue with my glass fussed truck and the contacts for the fuse had a crusty layer on it. I hit it with a burnishing file and some contact cleaner and everything started to work after that.
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  #3  
Old March 4th, 2015, 01:39 PM
Defenderdude
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it is a glass fuse, but its new and I cleaned the terminals too
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  #4  
Old March 4th, 2015, 01:42 PM
javelinadave
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Did you check to see if there is power to the fuse? If not the terminal may have slipped off the back of the fuse block. Basically you need to follow the wire and find where the current stops and the problem starts. I would also check the grounds.
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  #5  
Old March 4th, 2015, 04:23 PM
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I have very similar problems with '89 110. Did you check the flasher relay? Mine is fine and still same problem.

Next I'm checking the hazard switch. See link

Hazard Switch & Indicators - fault diagnosis - Defender Forum - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum
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  #6  
Old March 4th, 2015, 05:58 PM
Defenderdude
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No it wouldn't be flasher relay doesn't explain the other problems plus, the flashers work when I turn the hazards on all except the front left and rear main flashers but that's somthing different, but I might of found a bad ground, I will give it a shot and see if that fix it.
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  #7  
Old March 4th, 2015, 06:55 PM
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I had similar issues with my '86 110 and it ended up being multiple bad grounds and poor wiring, including bad grounds from the relays.
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  #8  
Old March 4th, 2015, 08:18 PM
Defenderdude
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Well it didn't work so have to keep looking, this is getting to be a real pain
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  #9  
Old March 4th, 2015, 08:25 PM
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Is the ground strap from the engine to frame in good order?
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  #10  
Old March 4th, 2015, 11:44 PM
Defenderdude
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I'm not sure were is that ground at? I just had time to check behind the dash and there nothing there, just a few wires I had to wrap up but of course it couldn't be that easy.
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  #11  
Old March 5th, 2015, 02:36 AM
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The ground that paul is referring to is a thick ground cable that goes from the engine block to the frame. It's possible that your issues could be ground related so it would be worth checking the engine ground strap to make sure the cable is good and the connections are clean.
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  #12  
Old March 5th, 2015, 07:54 AM
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It is common that the round glass fuses will make intermediate contact at best.
Replacing the fuse box will at least rule out the power supply source issue.
I have seen the fuses do unusual things like make contact, so a test light confirms 12V (+)
only to break contact under any load and not have 12V (+), then make contact again, so a test light confirms 12V (+).

As a matter of SOP, I replace the fuse boxes with spade type fuses and soldered connectors.
This provides you a baselined reliable power source that becomes a troubleshooting starting point.

Solder all connections as a crimp connector is a fire waiting to happen.

Try to keep that 2.25 diesel under 90 MPH on the interstate!
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  #13  
Old March 5th, 2015, 09:12 AM
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I would check grounds.... battery to frame ... frame to motor.... all fire wall grounds
also check the pos to starter....
the glass fuses are not great.... as someone mentioned check the fuse under load....

let us know result.....
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  #14  
Old March 5th, 2015, 10:05 AM
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The main wiring harness grounds to the bulkhead in the engine bay behind the engine. Look for several black wires with ring connectors on the ends going to a scew or bolt. This is where the dash wiring loom gets its ground.

Since the rear lights are "supposed" to be grounded @ the rear of the truck I'd assume your issue is the fuse. Try removing the fuse and then starting the truck up and re installing it. You should see a spark as the load connection is made. If thats the case things should then work.
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  #15  
Old March 7th, 2015, 09:45 AM
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Well used a meter on the panel to see if there is power going to the fuses and there is not, no power at all with key on I get nothing so bad power supply going to fuse box?
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  #16  
Old March 7th, 2015, 09:59 AM
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bad switch

Keep in mind most fuses only have power supplied when that circuit is turned on @ the switch. Circuits like the clock should always have power.
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  #17  
Old March 7th, 2015, 11:08 AM
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What switch would be bad? I know for a fact that the gauges work when on but no go here.
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  #18  
Old March 7th, 2015, 11:18 AM
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Ignition switch is prone to failure, especially on 32 year old trucks. That said it could be as simple as a wire has slipped of a spade connector on the back of the switch.

As far as fuses go, none of the light fuses should have voltage until the light switch and ignition switch are both turned on. The park lamp fuses should give a reading when just the light switch is on. The heater and wiper fuses should have juice after the key is on and those items turned on.
You are sure you have a good battery ?
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  #19  
Old March 7th, 2015, 11:21 AM
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100% its a week older than starter, a new odyssey 1500 so that's not the problem
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  #20  
Old March 7th, 2015, 11:22 AM
javelinadave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Defenderdude View Post
Well used a meter on the panel to see if there is power going to the fuses and there is not, no power at all with key on I get nothing so bad power supply going to fuse box?
This is what I figured. A bad ground makes one or two things go wonky. A bunch of stuff not working is a power issue. As stated it is either your ignition switch or something behind the fuse block has come disconnected or is corroded.
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