300tdi white smoke after runaway! - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old January 13th, 2012, 07:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Surfin' Elvis View Post
turbo had play in the impeller
I've rebuilt several Garrett T3's and turbo shaft play tolerances are pretty tight.

I think the spec is something on the order of 0.001 to 0.003" axial (in the direction of the shaft), which should feel like absolutely no play with your fingers. More generous radial (normal to shaft) tolerance of 0.010" to 0.020". Generous is relative here though.

You didn't need to replace the whole turbo though unless the shaft is scored/burnt or the hot side/cold side impellers are chipped/ground down. Just buy a $30 rebuild kit off Ye Old Ebay. Turbo CHRAs are standard by shaft (T2/T3/T4). No real need to rebalance as long as the shaft nut and shaft are returned to their original configuration. I have run two rebuilt turbos like this 40,000 miles, no problems.

Nowadays there are 360 degree thrust bearing kits avail for extra money. But for stock boost on tiny tdi turbos maybe overkill

then again if your leak was substantial maybe a good chance the impellers were hitting the housing and therefore pretty badly messed...
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  #22  
Old January 14th, 2012, 05:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
No real need to rebalance as long as the shaft nut and shaft are returned to their original configuration. I have run two rebuilt turbos like this 40,000 miles, no problems.
Interesting. I've rebuilt over 100 turbos and rarely, if ever, had one where both the compressor and turbine wheels didn't need rebalancing.

To stop any future runaways, one of these is worth consideration.
http://www.amotusa.com/products/air-...tterfly-valves
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  #23  
Old January 14th, 2012, 06:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
More generous radial (normal to shaft) tolerance of 0.010" to 0.020". Generous is relative here though.
The radial play is easily felt by hand even in a brand new out of the box Garrett. It's an often misdiagnosed issue.
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  #24  
Old January 14th, 2012, 10:00 AM
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Quote:
To stop any future runaways, one of these is worth consideration.
http://www.amotusa.com/products/air-...tterfly-valves
Oh, yes, I will be installing one of these! Thank you.
I also have a diesel generator for my house. That will also be fitted with one.
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  #25  
Old January 14th, 2012, 10:41 AM
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Would like to know which shutoff you end up using from those listed...keep us posted.
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  #26  
Old January 14th, 2012, 11:02 AM
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Would a shutoff valve in theory work installed in the snorkel? I've been thinking about doing this as well, and thought the snorkel would be ideal as it's easy to reach and can be installed in between the rubber elbow and steel tube.

Second question, would it cause any damage to block the snorkel to see if the motor dies? I know gas engines are okay, but didn't know about diesels.
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  #27  
Old January 14th, 2012, 11:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolf Fabrication View Post
Would a shutoff valve in theory work installed in the snorkel? I've been thinking about doing this as well, and thought the snorkel would be ideal as it's easy to reach and can be installed in between the rubber elbow and steel tube.
I don't think I'd want mine within reach of the general population. Lest some moron shuts off the valve when the car is parked in public or something.
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  #28  
Old January 14th, 2012, 11:16 AM
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No personal experience with these, but I think you want the shutoff to be installed right at the intake manifold. Blocking the intake at the snorkel or air filter sucks the intake hoses flat (try it) and at that point they could easily separate and allow the engine to keep running. It won't damage the engine to block it if you want to see what happens.
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  #29  
Old January 16th, 2012, 09:40 AM
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I searched for one that looked like it may fit with no luck. There are not many passenger vehicle-sized applications out there that I could find. Most are bulky industrial sized rigs.
I spent a few hours yesterday building one out of a thin-walled piece of 3-inch aluminum intake pipe. I plan to operate it via a cable and mount it right behind my silicone elbow coupler at the intake to the turbo. It's not completely air tight, but I will test it once the truck is running and report back. Heck, it only cost me 2 hours and a few pieces of scrap hardware. Add a choke cable and the whole thing costs less than ten bucks. Will post a pic in a bit.
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  #30  
Old January 19th, 2012, 04:28 PM
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Click image for larger version

Name:	No 4 Piston Top.jpg
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ID:	46349Uh-oh...
#4 cylinder not looking too sporty.
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