300Tdi valve ajustment question... - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old September 2nd, 2006, 08:01 PM
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George Kase
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300Tdi valve ajustment question...

I need to do a 1000 mile valve adjustment...do I do it cold or hot engine?
any watch outs? (like, the damn thing won't start up if I move the crank for getting the valves in position, will it?) Thanks for any input...
George
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  #2  
Old September 3rd, 2006, 08:21 AM
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Cold

No...I've never had one start.

It's important to hold your lips just right when adjusting the exhaust valves
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new expansion complete. Not only are we the only Rover shop in Eliot Maine...now we're also the biggest.

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  #3  
Old September 3rd, 2006, 01:30 PM
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George Kase
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thanks Matt...is it ok to reuse the valve cover gasket? (onlly 1000 miles) or if I need a new one do use any kind of sealer?
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Old September 4th, 2006, 07:14 AM
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I'd reuse the gasket for sure, clean and dry. I'd Replace it at about 12,000 miles (or 400 hrs). That gasket is one of those things that you should have in your spares kit.
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new expansion complete. Not only are we the only Rover shop in Eliot Maine...now we're also the biggest.

"Dedicated to the resurrection of junk through engineering?"
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  #5  
Old September 4th, 2006, 09:00 AM
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George Kase
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thanks Matt...by the way...for others needing to do this, I found a bunch of good hints thru google that can save some time like advancing the valve train with the alternator pulley nut instead of the crank pulley ( so no need to remove fan shroud etc.)...thanks again!
George
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Old September 4th, 2006, 10:21 AM
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I never adjusted mine yet.. I have 6k on the truck. Should I? I did not think it was nec. at 1000
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Old September 4th, 2006, 10:54 AM
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Um, I havent adjusted mine and I'm at almost 40k...

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Old September 4th, 2006, 11:53 AM
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lol... ok good. im not the only one
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Old September 4th, 2006, 12:15 PM
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M&D told me to change the oil and adjust the valves at 1000...but, hey, who am I to buck a trend?
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Old September 4th, 2006, 12:18 PM
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I changed the oil for the first time at 6k, and as mentioned, havent touched the valves.
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  #11  
Old September 4th, 2006, 09:24 PM
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should adjust at about 12k.

Never tried turning the crank with the alternator....then again I've never had to remove the fan shroud to turn the crank either?
I generally do maintenance according to engine hours not by mileage. www.tinytach.com/tinytach/diesel.php
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new expansion complete. Not only are we the only Rover shop in Eliot Maine...now we're also the biggest.

"Dedicated to the resurrection of junk through engineering?"
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  #12  
Old September 5th, 2006, 07:27 PM
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Thought I'd post results...simple to do...just like all my old MGB/TR3/etc...sounds smoother and quieter...worth doing.
Hey Matt...thanks for mentioning that Tiny Tach...I'm going to pick one up...also, the alternator bolt didn't work (belt slippage)...you can reach the crank pully from up top without removing shroud? how you do that?
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  #13  
Old September 6th, 2006, 06:47 AM
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Not sure how I reach the crank pulley from the top as I don't have a truck in front of me right now, I just know for sure that I haven't pulled the fan shroud off to adjust valves, which is at worst a 45 min job. Pulling the fan shroud is a pain in the ass.

I'll try to remember to look when I get into the shop.
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new expansion complete. Not only are we the only Rover shop in Eliot Maine...now we're also the biggest.

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  #14  
Old September 6th, 2006, 08:50 AM
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A socket on a 1/2" socket wrench slips in between the pulley and the shroud from the bottom. Sometime you have to put the socket on the bolt, then attach the wrench to it once that is in place, but Matt is right, no need to pull the shroud. It is tight, but it is easier than pulling the shroud. Never tried it from the top as that would mean taking the clutch fan off.
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Old September 7th, 2006, 06:37 AM
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You can also sneak it (the socket on a breaker bar)in from the injection pump side if you hold your lips just right. Then you can watch the valve train move, helpfull if you are working solo.
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new expansion complete. Not only are we the only Rover shop in Eliot Maine...now we're also the biggest.

"Dedicated to the resurrection of junk through engineering?"
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  #16  
Old September 7th, 2006, 08:19 AM
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yup, that's how I did it, from the bottom...but that required having someone else doing the wrenching from below...next time I'll try the injection pump side...thanks all!
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Old September 7th, 2006, 09:27 AM
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Most of the ones I work on have AC and that puts the squeeze on reaching from the injection pump side. Of course if you are alone you can take the clutch fan and shroud off and do it the "proper" way.
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  #18  
Old September 8th, 2006, 03:57 PM
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According to "revue technique automobile" and haynes manual, valve
adjustment must be done every 10,000 kms (+/- 6,000 miles), setting is
0.20 mm on all valves, engine has to be cold. Does anyone use the
wheel lifting and 5 gear method to move drivetrain ?
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Old September 8th, 2006, 09:20 PM
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Take 'em to school JFD. Put it in difflock. Jack up a front tire and turn the tire with it in gear to turn the engine over. Old school, I like.

I myself just take off the fan and clutch without removing the shroud. Then turn the engine over from the engine bay with a rachet end on my long breaker bar. But I am Pendy. You can do this on A/C equiped engines if you hold your mouth right as well.

I also adjust by rule of nines. Valve overlap. If one is down adjust eight. If two is down adjust seven and so on. Front is one, back is eight.


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  #20  
Old September 9th, 2006, 08:00 AM
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Schooled my ass........

I say 12k 'cause I've yet to have to adjust one at 6k or 8k or 10k and barely had to adjust at 12k.
But I have checked them.

9's are the way for sure

I would have to think that "old school" turning the fawkin tyre to move the valve train would be even more challenging than holding your lips just right.

However it's allways nice to know the "correct" way of things, much appreciated.
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