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  #41  
Old February 19th, 2012, 11:00 PM
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Good to see another texan out there
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  #42  
Old February 19th, 2012, 11:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texrover
I having nothing of value to add to this thread, but I would like to request Ed post some pics of his 110...!
Is there an Ed or did you mean El? Here are some shots anyways
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  #43  
Old February 20th, 2012, 03:29 AM
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Thanks El Solis, er, Chris, sorry for the lapse!
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  #44  
Old February 20th, 2012, 05:48 AM
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A few other things that dramatically affect Tdi performance.

1. Pump timing.
Slightly retarded and they are a slug, and it can be as simple as the timing pin being tight vs slipping in easily.
FWIW they seem to like a little advance over stock settings.
One of the really good mechanics here uses 1.6mm plunger lift from the stock 1.54mm.

2. Rocker clearance.
Make sure they are 0.008" thou. A little wide and performance suffers.
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  #45  
Old February 20th, 2012, 07:28 AM
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Like John said if it's not revved out (like 4000 rpm) it should pull to well above 60mph....or 70mph (I can easily pull over 85mph in a 5200lb RRC and it's still thinking about going faster but I lose interest).
It has to be getting fuel. Even with the timing not *perfect* it should have plenty of power for highway speeds if it is getting the fuel. Change the filter.
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  #46  
Old February 20th, 2012, 11:30 AM
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bleed the fuel filter last night will put it back together and give a test run. I will look for my feeler gages today.
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  #47  
Old February 20th, 2012, 02:34 PM
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Ok so today's update: bench tested the whole system again worked fine. Took it to the truck, with all the same cables I bench tested it with, disconnected the battery terminals and hooked everything up (this way there would not be any interference from the truck). I had warmed it up w a short drive, IR showed 150-160 Degrees at the sender so I hook it all up: NOTHING. I fiddle with the wires, grounded the sender wire to the gauge needle goes hot as it should. I hook the jumper cable to the sender nut nothing. I confirm power to the system. I check the resistance at the sender it is way high 230 KILO ohms. That's not right. It would explain why it is reading cold. Can't figure out why the resistance is super high with the sender in the truck. What am I missing?

Side note: after my warm up drive there was smoke from the down pipe side of the turbo with what looks like a little oil stain. This is very bad right?

PPS: anyone know if you can source a fuel filter at a local shop or do I have to go RN or RDS?

------ Follow up post added February 20th, 2012 11:36 AM ------

Sorry the smoke off the turbo is where the back of the turbo joins to the down pipe piece

------ Follow up post added February 20th, 2012 11:41 AM ------



Heres the video that shows the turbo
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  #48  
Old February 20th, 2012, 04:02 PM
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Probably just a leak.

No idea what is going on with the sender/gauge. Might be best to get a second set of eyes on it. How about some photos of that installed?

Fuel filter should be available locally. VW diesels 77 - 84, I believe.

Bosch 1 457 434 106
Mann WK 842/2
http://www.germanfilters.com/xref2_s...rch=WK+842%2F2
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  #49  
Old February 20th, 2012, 04:20 PM
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Ok here's a pic of the sender installed

As for the rest of the install:
1 ran wire from fuse block to + on gauge
2 ran wire from neg terminal on battery to - on gauge
3 ran new wire from sender to gauge S


Things I've done:
Grounded sender directly to battery
Bypassed truck completely with sender installed
And everything else listed previously
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  #50  
Old February 20th, 2012, 05:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by junkyddog11 View Post
Like John said if it's not revved out (like 4000 rpm) it should pull to well above 60mph....or 70mph (I can easily pull over 85mph in a 5200lb RRC and it's still thinking about going faster but I lose interest).
It has to be getting fuel. Even with the timing not *perfect* it should have plenty of power for highway speeds if it is getting the fuel. Change the filter.
Except a Defender has the aerodynamics of a house brick.
Add a roofrack, bullbar, and a slight incline with a head wind may have you struggling to maintain 100-110km/h.

Tappet clearance and timing can make a difference before you start increasing pump fueling, which IMO finally makes the engine liveable.

Having said all that mine had seen 145km/h (indicated) with 235/85-16's and a stock engine in the right conditions. (slight downhill, probable tailwind :D)
Drop that by 8% or so for a real figure.
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  #51  
Old February 20th, 2012, 05:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
[snip]

Fuel filter should be available locally. VW diesels 77 - 84, I believe.

Bosch 1 457 434 106
Mann WK 842/2
http://www.germanfilters.com/xref2_s...rch=WK+842%2F2
JB, I was going to suggest similar, a Donaldson P550588 or Fleetguard equivalent but look at the picture, it looks like a Delphi HDF296 cartridge on the firewall ?

If that's the case, any filter service, tractor or truck parts place will stock them.
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  #52  
Old February 20th, 2012, 08:14 PM
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Just for giggles
additional step

4 ran wire from neg terminal on batter to body of guage sender, to complete the loop. The guage needs a ground signal to make a reading. And the resistance of the sender changes this reading. If you ground this wire that goes to the sender, the guage goes to full hot.


Quote:
Originally Posted by El Solis View Post
Ok here's a pic of the sender installed

As for the rest of the install:
1 ran wire from fuse block to + on gauge
2 ran wire from neg terminal on battery to - on gauge
3 ran new wire from sender to gauge S


Things I've done:
Grounded sender directly to battery
Bypassed truck completely with sender installed
And everything else listed previously
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  #53  
Old February 20th, 2012, 08:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pendy
Just for giggles
additional step

4 ran wire from neg terminal on batter to body of guage sender, to complete the loop. The guage needs a ground signal to make a reading. And the resistance of the sender changes this reading. If you ground this wire that goes to the sender, the guage goes to full hot.
Not exactly sure what u wanted grounded but here's what has been done:
1 yes I grounded the sender wire and the gauge went full hot

2 I ran a jumper cable from neg terminal on batt to housing for sender (and tried it directly to the sender itself)

Side note got the fuel filter so tomorrow am will be new fuel filter and clean sedimenter morning woohoo!!
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  #54  
Old February 20th, 2012, 08:48 PM
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So we think the sender is bad or incorrect then?
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  #55  
Old February 20th, 2012, 09:01 PM
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I've tried 3 senders, currently the one in the truck is the only one that works on the bench. Out of the truck the sender works perfectly. Put it in hot water with thermometer and test with both multimeter for resistance ohms (matched up with temp per ohm per vdo specs) and tested it with gauge powered up which also read correct. I've had the sender out twice now and it works both times. The other senders don't work now, my brother who is a physicist/chemist is concerned that there is some current hitting the sender and popping its internals (because now they all read "OL" on the meter)
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  #56  
Old February 20th, 2012, 09:14 PM
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Something is strange going on. Check for voltage and if none then resistance between the thermostat housing and the battery negative terminal.
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  #57  
Old February 20th, 2012, 10:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90
Something is strange going on. Check for voltage and if none then resistance between the thermostat housing and the battery negative terminal.
Did that already here's what i got:

-50mV w key at acc position shot to -110mV with engine on and then dropped to -12 ish mV see vids





------ Follow up post added February 20th, 2012 07:12 PM ------

As for resistance there was none with and without the jumper from the neg batt post to the sender housing
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  #58  
Old February 21st, 2012, 12:06 PM
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That sender must be toast then. Ohm test between the body of the thermostat housing and terminal for the sender.

If you are putting 12V to the wire leading to the sender unit at any time it may be damaging the sender units.
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  #59  
Old February 21st, 2012, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by El Solis View Post
Did that already here's what i got:

-50mV w key at acc position shot to -110mV with engine on and then dropped to -12 ish mV see vids
I would have a good look at your grounds. Where does the battery ground go? Pull and clean the connections. What other grounds are in place? Clean them as well.
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  #60  
Old February 21st, 2012, 01:06 PM
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I have a 200tdi sender that you can borrow if that would help. I'm in Berkeley (I believe we met a month or 2 ago).
Have you tried to wire it up in the truck separate from the trucks harness? Might be worth a shot for diagnostics.

Are you putting sealant on the sender? You should not as it needs ground contact.

Good luck!
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