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  #21  
Old February 18th, 2012, 08:59 PM
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John B.
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1) Make sure the lift pump is working. Disconnect the discharge line from the pump and crank over. You should get lots of fuel.
2) Make sure the filter filter is not plugged. Replace if unknown.
3) Make sure the air filter is not plugged.
4) Check if turbo is boosting. A boost gauge is the easiest. But you should here it and feel a surge in power.
5) Check timing. It is pretty easy to do.

Things get more complicated past that point. Things like checking injectors and injection pump and compression.

Maybe someone like Pendy that lives and breathes fixing these things has some good tips.
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  #22  
Old February 18th, 2012, 09:05 PM
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Thanks Red90, I know the injectors were just cleaned as part of the rebuild, i can def hear the turbo spool up (since my temp gauge is being stupid i listen for that to see how hard i'm pushing the engine. i will be swapping the fuel filter and cleaning the sedimenter this week (as soon as I can get an new filter) and then the bosch pump last as i think it needs some tuning but want to make sure everything else is legit before messing with that.
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  #23  
Old February 18th, 2012, 09:36 PM
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jim pendleton
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Seems like good advice given. I would get the temperature gauge working correctly before worrying how fast I was going. Especially if an engine rebuild had just been completed. A gauge with numbers as reference is what I like to recommend. If you are trying to tune for highway driving then monitoring the engine temperature becomes even more important.

Seriously start there.
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  #24  
Old February 18th, 2012, 10:38 PM
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Thanks Pendy I have been trying to get a VDO gauge and sender to work no luck for 2 months. I have all the correct parts I can get them to work on the bench but in the truck no luck. When the key is in the acc position gauge goes up to 170-190(used to today with all new wires again didn't do this, actually looked like it was working, but then no). So key to acc gauge goes up then key on gauge goes below 100 and stays there. Latest idea is a floating ground I'm about to connect my neg jumper to the sender housing and see what happens. Today it hit 100 which is what the temp gun said backed down the driveway all good and as soon as I put it in first and started moving forward bam back under 100 never to climb again.
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  #25  
Old February 18th, 2012, 10:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis View Post
When my fuel filter was plugged, my limit was about 60 mph. I'd change the fuel filter 1st.
mine too, I agree, check that first.

When my intercooler hose popped off, I lost tons of power too, check those next.
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  #26  
Old February 19th, 2012, 07:55 AM
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Normally a stock 300tdi with 1.4TC should get to 70mph easily, 85 at the most, even though I believe that its normal cruising speed is between 55/65mph. My tuned-up 300tdi does 110/112mph if pushed to the limit.

If it doesn´t get to 70 I would check turbo to IC hoses for cracks, both elbow and the other short straight one. Also they could get soft and ballooned from the inside not leting the air come through, specially the elbow one. Sorry but I don´t know if I made my point clear in english.

Cheers,
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  #27  
Old February 19th, 2012, 10:59 AM
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I have a 300 tdi, lt77 (not sure which ratio), and an lt230 with a 1.4 ratio. I have no problem cruising at 70-75 even in the mountains.
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  #28  
Old February 19th, 2012, 11:01 AM
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See I knew I was having more than a gear ratio problem. There are 5 flavors or so of the 1.4 tease tho right? But it shouldn't matter which one I have right?
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  #29  
Old February 19th, 2012, 12:38 PM
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Need a good ground wire between the bulkhead and the engine. Just add one. Might even run the grounds for the guages to the same connection. Be sure you have a good ground connection between the battery and the frame and between the battery and the engine. As long as the guage has power with the key on no need to trace the + circuit. I woudl get the grounds sorted. Did you run a new wire between the sender and the guage. Be best not to use the factory wiring for the guage signal.

Pretty common to have a ground problem between the bulkhead and the a good ground source. Especially for instruments


Quote:
Originally Posted by El Solis View Post
Thanks Pendy I have been trying to get a VDO gauge and sender to work no luck for 2 months. I have all the correct parts I can get them to work on the bench but in the truck no luck. When the key is in the acc position gauge goes up to 170-190(used to today with all new wires again didn't do this, actually looked like it was working, but then no). So key to acc gauge goes up then key on gauge goes below 100 and stays there. Latest idea is a floating ground I'm about to connect my neg jumper to the sender housing and see what happens. Today it hit 100 which is what the temp gun said backed down the driveway all good and as soon as I put it in first and started moving forward bam back under 100 never to climb again.
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  #30  
Old February 19th, 2012, 01:32 PM
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I have run a new wire from the sender to the gauge and I cleaned all the ground points where they attach to the chassis. I have checked the bulkhead ground. None of the other instruments are affected. I did add a ground strap from the passenger side of the block (see pic) to the chassis. Just went out and looked at the air filter looks good to me except some black gooey stuff at the bottom (just a lil bit) and today's symptoms are key to acc nothing on the gauge engine on still nothing but the engine only got up to 100(gauge still below 100) before the baby woke up and I had to abort. Of note there is an exhaust leak where the turbo meets the down pipe (I knew about this bit thought it was fixed, on fire up smoke from this junction but just a small amount). I still have to run a jumper cable from the neg term to the temp sender and see what happens. Thanks for all the advice everyone I owe all of you a beer if you are ever in Livermore CA! (fuel filter is next once I get a new one)
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  #31  
Old February 19th, 2012, 01:43 PM
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Oops forgot the pics only the filter sorry
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  #32  
Old February 19th, 2012, 06:27 PM
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Ok so I ran a jumper from the neg term on the battery to the temp sender nut part, no change. I tested the ohms at the end of the wire from the sender they were all over the place from 7-9 kilo ohms. Yanked the sender tested it in hot water and got the correct ohms for the temp (found a nice site for this http://www.ljf-design.com/westfield/vdo_sensors.xls ). So damn frustrating. Should I still try to hunt down a ground issue?
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  #33  
Old February 19th, 2012, 06:49 PM
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If you ran a ground from the battery for testing that should have done it. Did you crimp a terminal on the new wire you ran for the guage. Maybe the problem is in the terminal crimped for connection at the sender?

The sender wire, not ground or +

------ Follow up post added February 19th, 2012 05:51 PM ------

Just reread your post. Run a wire from the negative of the battery to the guage negative terminal.
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  #34  
Old February 19th, 2012, 07:04 PM
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I did run a neg wire from the battery to the gauge. I didn't check continuity on that wire but I will. I will also check the resistance at this wire as it should be zero.
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  #35  
Old February 19th, 2012, 07:19 PM
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I officially give up! I just went and unplugged the ground wire expecting the needle to go all the way hot: nothing. Checked power to the gauge: perfect. Now the gauge isn't even working its beer time and tomorrow a trip down to the shop as all of this was fine until they plopped the motor back in. I swear for what this little washer cost me I could have had a brand spanking new 200tdi built specially for me and brought over on its own damn plane with jet escorts and installed by a team of flying monkeys.
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  #36  
Old February 19th, 2012, 07:48 PM
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I could use some flying monkeys here at the shop. If you got a line on one.

I think it may end up being something simple. But may be good to get away from it for a while. But, I think you should solve this issue yourself. It will give you problem solving skills that will prove helpful in the future.

You say you tested it on the bench and it worked? Start there again. Make sure the guage is still working without issue on the bench. Then transfer it back to the truck. Run a jumper wire from the guage to the sender. Run a jumper wire from the guage + connection to the battery + Run a jumper wire from the battery negative to the negative connection at the guage. Just like the bench test.

So it will work I assume at this point. Then bring in the negative circuit you have been using at your instrument cluster. If it continues to work bring in the + circuit. If it continues to work bring in the sender wire you wired up earlier. Do the sender wire last.

The other shop may have damaged the sender wire during the engine work. Do this whole test. Do not skip steps. When it kicks your butt start at the beginning.
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  #37  
Old February 19th, 2012, 08:12 PM
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Thanks Pendy. I'll do all that tomorrow and see. I'll let you know. I haven't been able to get a good ohm read off the sender while in the truck, all annoying.
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  #38  
Old February 19th, 2012, 08:31 PM
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May end up needing a new wire then. But do the test so you can keep from backtracking anymore.

Good Luck Man !
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  #39  
Old February 19th, 2012, 10:46 PM
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Lots of good tips to El Solis for a gage.

I just put the 300tdi in the vehicle and set the timing and checked it twice by manually rotating. I put a new oil and fuel filter. I bleed the fuel line until fuel was coming out the return line.

Is there a fuel water bleeder in the injection pump? I will pull the fuel filter and check to see if it was clogged from what ever.

I will check the turbo hoses.
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  #40  
Old February 19th, 2012, 10:51 PM
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I having nothing of value to add to this thread, but I would like to request Ed post some pics of his 110...!
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