300TDi Timing Belt procedure - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old June 3rd, 2014, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
Man I still think someone jacked with your engine. Why else would it have been pulled apart like that when we picked it up....
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Originally Posted by Ren Ching View Post
Oh, yeah it has been jacked with alright. Disco autobox engine that came with a clutch and remnants of wiring from at least two different trucks.
Great engine, road in the truck at MAR and it performed flawlessly all day and Dave only shared one beer the whole time!
Some thanks I got for hooking him up with the seller of such a good engine.
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  #22  
Old June 3rd, 2014, 04:11 PM
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Oh, yeah it has been jacked with alright. Disco autobox engine that came with a clutch and remnants of wiring from at least two different trucks.

LOL. I KNEW Robert would rise to the surface with that bait. You know I was just jacking with ya Robert.

All I remember about that parts counter exchange @ Gotts that December afternoon was you asking for stratos blue paint in spray cans, and that it snowed inches in the short time we were there. I guess the next 10+ hours driving/walking/riding to Southampton and back to Hertfordshire in the "storm of the decade" wiped that exchange from the memory banks.
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  #23  
Old June 18th, 2014, 08:21 PM
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Okay, so I'm reporting back after replacing the timing belt.
I used a full genuine kit with all idler pulleys, tensioner and new seals.

The Difflock article was good, and combined with the Land Rover shop manual it was more than enough information.

A couple of observations though.

First, I've come to understand that nothing about my truck or any of its components are easily explained. So, following the procedure to set the timing and lock the flywheel and IP pulley in place, I noticed that the IP timing appeared to be waaay off of the notch. Not because the belt was old and stretched but it appeared to have been set this way. See the picture. This would be retarded timing, correct? Significantly retarded as the set pin wasn't even close. Anyway this is how I found it, but upon reassembly I went to recommend spec using the tool and didn't deviate.

I haven't test fired the engine yet because I'm waiting to receive new glow plugs and probably will wait to get the radiator and intercooler installed first anyway.

Second, I was so paranoid about leaving the locking pin in the bellhousing (I have a tendency to obsess over small details like exactly how to mark the bolts I've already torqued but would totally forget something important like this). So, I tied a 6' piece of florescent mason line to the pin and tied the other end to the keys!
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  #24  
Old June 18th, 2014, 08:23 PM
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Oh, and by the way, it was absolutely living on the edge as Doug joked! Totally time to replace the belt. The inside of the case was filthy and there were bits of rubber dust everywhere. Only a matter of time.....
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  #25  
Old June 18th, 2014, 08:25 PM
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.....more evidence that the belt was tired
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  #26  
Old June 18th, 2014, 10:35 PM
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Living on the edge with a 7yr old timing belt wasn't a joke. Retarded timing probably has a lot to do with your stupid low egts. Why in the hell would you wait for new glow plugs to start your engine in mid June ? Just trying to understand....
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  #27  
Old June 18th, 2014, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
Living on the edge with a 7yr old timing belt wasn't a joke. Retarded timing probably has a lot to do with your stupid low egts. Why in the hell would you wait for new glow plugs to start your engine in mid June ? Just trying to understand....
Oh, I was simply being lazy and don't want to reinstall the old glow plugs only to replace them when the new ones arrive tomorrow. It has nothing to do with needing a glow plug to start that's for sure.

So that's retarded then? That's what I thought. Worst part is that I really don't see the benefit of that move. Leaner and what less fuel consumption? But I've got to work the boost constantly through the RPM range in order to get that thing moving that I end up eating fuel anyway.
I've been charting my consumption since day one and I'm averaging 24-25mpg and it's as low as 21-22 in the winter because I let it idle a lot more to keep her warm. Those numbers aren't all that impressive for a 300 from what I understand.

Hopefully getting things back to stock time and tuning the fueling after the big intercooler is installed should make a world of difference. I'm also tossing that P.O.S. Britpart center resonator in the trash ASAP. It was brand new e less than 18 months ago and is already rusty as shit. I had a straight pipe in the center section before and I'm going back to that setup. Get things breathing a bit more freely as well.
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  #28  
Old June 18th, 2014, 11:59 PM
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Just to be overly extra sure, One thing I do to insure that the new belt gets back on the same pulley teeth as the old belt is to put a little paint on a belt tooth and a corresponding pulley tooth on the IP, cam and crank pulleys. After pulling the belt I then transfer those paint marks to the new belt & just because I'm paranoid, I count the teeth between marks on the old to new belt just to make sure. Then install the new belt & make sure my paint marks end up on the right pulley teeth. I've never used a flywheel pin, just the cam & IP and I use drill bits.
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  #29  
Old June 19th, 2014, 11:11 PM
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Well, I ended up sticking the old glow plugs in there just to hear it run.
Fired right up and sounds great. Sounds more like a deisel, slightly more "clacking" and definitely more responsive when the throttle is tapped.
Haven't given it a thorough shakedown yet because I'm still finalizing the Allisport intercooler, but things already look and sound better.
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  #30  
Old June 24th, 2014, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Jackie Treehorn View Post
Oh, I was simply being lazy and don't want to reinstall the old glow plugs only to replace them when the new ones arrive tomorrow. It has nothing to do with needing a glow plug to start that's for sure.

So that's retarded then? That's what I thought. Worst part is that I really don't see the benefit of that move. Leaner and what less fuel consumption? But I've got to work the boost constantly through the RPM range in order to get that thing moving that I end up eating fuel anyway.
I've been charting my consumption since day one and I'm averaging 24-25mpg and it's as low as 21-22 in the winter because I let it idle a lot more to keep her warm. Those numbers aren't all that impressive for a 300 from what I understand.


Hopefully getting things back to stock time and tuning the fueling after the big intercooler is installed should make a world of difference. I'm also tossing that P.O.S. Britpart center resonator in the trash ASAP. It was brand new e less than 18 months ago and is already rusty as shit. I had a straight pipe in the center section before and I'm going back to that setup. Get things breathing a bit more freely as well.
J.T, don't forget when that timing was set the way you found it, that truck was actually in a hardtop configuration, had different a wheel/tyre setup, no external rollcage and being used for a uniquely different purpose. Couple that with the fact that the engine has also been totally stripped and rebuilt twice in its life and in your words "covered more miles than sputnik"; the fuel consumption is what I would expect in its current configuration. Incidentally, is it still running with the RR transfer box?

It only became a CSW after that embarrassing incident I told you about.... the one when we discovered that someone had simultaneously tilted the earth and increased its gravitational pull, then put a tree right in our path. That CSW body does add some weight but I was still returning between 33-40mpg. I suppose what I'm trying to say is that the original retarded settings were largely redundant since you implemented the changes to the truck ( though I accept I didn't help by making it into a 5 door )

That said she's still a good truck and I do miss it. Oh, and remember to be light on the throttle when accelerating, heavily flooring it just makes it sluggish.
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  #31  
Old June 24th, 2014, 06:19 PM
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Yeah, I forgot about that part, Spanner! She was a lot leaner and lighter in her past life.
Glad you're back and hope you don't think I was bitching about your work, just surprised at how much of a difference resetting the timing made.

I remember you had told me that the Irish mechanic had spent a good deal of time tuning the 300 for very specific operating parameters set forth by you.

Now that it's gained several hundred pounds it's about time to revisit the timing and fuel.
Make sure you take a peek at my intercooler upgrade thread under Small Projects section.
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  #32  
Old June 24th, 2014, 06:26 PM
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Yeah, I forgot about that part, Spanner! She was a lot leaner and lighter in her past life.
Glad you're back and hope you don't think I was bitching about your work, just surprised at how much of a difference resetting the timing made.

I remember you had told me that the Irish mechanic had spent a good deal of time tuning the 300 for very specific operating parameters set forth by you.

Now that it's gained several hundred pounds it's about time to revisit the timing and fuel.
Make sure you take a peek at my intercooler upgrade thread under Small Projects section.
No not at all.
I did check out your link to the intercooler thread, good work BTW.
But............7 years before changing the timing belt, has it really been that long.....
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  #33  
Old June 24th, 2014, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Spanner110 View Post
No not at all.
I did check out your link to the intercooler thread, good work BTW.
But............7 years before changing the timing belt, has it really been that long.....
Liveridge restored it for you in 2007 correct? At which time the timing belt was done....or at least that's what I thought. Odometer was new then....set at zero. It now stands at 36k
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  #34  
Old June 24th, 2014, 08:11 PM
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Liveridge? You are lucky it lasted this long. That probably explains the crank gear made from duck poo.
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  #35  
Old June 24th, 2014, 10:52 PM
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Liveridge? You are lucky it lasted this long. That probably explains the crank gear made from duck poo.
You're confusing mine with Daniel's I think......
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...66&postcount=2

Though, I'm not vouching for the quality of anything done by Liveridge.
My crank gear was perfect and was obviously replaced with a later model with shoulders, but not so late because it had the separate bushing, not the newer integrated bushing on the back.

Actually, Daniel if you're reading this and don't opt for the complete timing belt kit that includes the new gear, you're welcome to have my old one in perfect shape as well as two new woodruff keys. Not that it will save you a ton of dough, but it really could be used/repurposed.
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  #36  
Old June 25th, 2014, 01:59 AM
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Liveridge restored it for you in 2007 correct? At which time the timing belt was done....or at least that's what I thought. Odometer was new then....set at zero. It now stands at 36k
That is what I was led to believe by them (though in all honesty I wouldn't be surprised if they never did that work at all, which if true, would bear testament to the sterling work of my Irish mechanic in respect that the belt never failed); I was amazed that 7 years had slipped by so quick....I guess that's what happens when you get older.

On the Liveridge rebuild it would be fair to let everyone know that when I got the truck back I spent over £2000 of my own cash just to correct some of the 'shortcuts' that those c**t* had taken during the rebuild.
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  #37  
Old June 25th, 2014, 11:00 AM
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Liveridge = Pikers
one level above Gypos, correct?
Anyway, regardless of whomever did the restoration/rebuild, I'm sure I would have gotten into all these things eventually. That's how it goes with Defenders.
The longer I own one, the more I'm convinced it's exactly like owning a boat in terms of maintenance and upkeep.
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  #38  
Old June 27th, 2014, 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Jackie Treehorn View Post
Liveridge = Pikers
one level above Gypos, correct?
Anyway, regardless of whomever did the restoration/rebuild, I'm sure I would have gotten into all these things eventually. That's how it goes with Defenders.
The longer I own one, the more I'm convinced it's exactly like owning a boat in terms of maintenance and upkeep.
Look on the bright side, at least your Landrover will be more fuel efficient than any boat (@ 4% for boats, from my previous calculations)

I have always refrained from overtly deriding Liveridge....much, but to be honest I never hear anyone speak highly of them and I feel stupid for having been mugged into using their 'services'. Oh well, once bitten twice shy!

Strangely enough we bought daughter No.1's 90 from Liveridge (18th birthday present) and expressly forbid them from doing anything to it, buying it as seen and taking it away with us there and then That vehicle has never broken down nor required any remedial work....go figure.
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  #39  
Old July 2nd, 2014, 02:31 PM
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I just came across this step-by-step from an old LRO that I thought may go well with this thread for any future reference (it's got nice photos of the process):
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