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  #41  
Old October 16th, 2010, 05:58 PM
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Yes a Turner bare head and have the machine shop get the valve depth correct, dress the valves and set stem height. Full gasket set for valve seals. Just let Frida set you up on parts. She may not be on board with Brit part pistons though. Maybe price shop her against the Brit part if you are interested in genuine.
Maybe she can help since you will be spending $ and the shipping from different vendors become a factor as well.

I would hope it would smoke a little. If not might make me wonder. EGT gauge is still a good idea.
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  #42  
Old October 18th, 2010, 04:24 PM
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Got everything unhooked today. Hope to yank out the block soon. I prob will remove the front tires to lower the truck to pluck the engine out over the rad. The bore does not seem as bad as I thought but I will see what the machine shop thinks.
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  #43  
Old October 22nd, 2010, 09:09 PM
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Engine is out and stripped down today. Will be on the way for machining on monday. i will try to take some pix tomorrow.
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  #44  
Old October 22nd, 2010, 09:11 PM
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Randy -- Which machine shop do you use?
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  #45  
Old October 26th, 2010, 04:19 PM
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Ryan, RPM Performance in Westwood.

I heard from them today. Said that everything checked out ok but will need a .020 overbore to fix the scoring.

What do you think Pendy?
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  #46  
Old October 26th, 2010, 10:33 PM
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Crank is okay. Bore it to 020 then.

Price the pistons to decide if the Britparts are more cost effective. What do you think about going to a thicker headgasket? Maybe even investigate the height after new piston installation.

I may have a block I could trade you. If you want to stay standard piston. Check and see what pistons and machine work will run.
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  #47  
Old November 11th, 2010, 12:53 PM
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Jim, I shot you an email today RE: what we were talking on the phone about.
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