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  #21  
Old October 13th, 2010, 09:01 AM
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Randy,

If you need a hand with anything let me know. I am good for holding tools and fetching beer.
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  #22  
Old October 13th, 2010, 10:19 AM
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I've seen camshafts break off at the nose on a 2.5 NA engine. I can't think of how else timing could appear intact and have five bent pushrods, unless you had a bunch of valves all stick at the same time. Did you have the small timing pin into the flywheel as well?
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  #23  
Old October 14th, 2010, 01:19 PM
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been thinking about this some more. Wasn't it raining cats and dogs on your way down? Is it possible some water got in?


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I've seen camshafts break off at the nose on a 2.5 NA engine. I can't think of how else timing could appear intact and have five bent pushrods, unless you had a bunch of valves all stick at the same time. Did you have the small timing pin into the flywheel as well?
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  #24  
Old October 14th, 2010, 02:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjfslaughter View Post
Randy,

If you need a hand with anything let me know. I am good for holding tools and fetching beer.

LOL will do.

Dave, no water. It was not raining when I left. When I turn it over now with the rocker shaft removed, the pus rods are all moving fine and no strange noises at all...

Not sure if its just one bent rod or not. I have 4 others that just roll a little off. Not sure how straight there are from new. If thats the case, the only bent one would be the rear most exhaust pusher.

Have to start removing the head now.
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  #25  
Old October 14th, 2010, 10:54 PM
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Well, glad it was not water. Hope it isn't too bad, whatever it is. Sounds like a stuck valve.
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  #26  
Old October 15th, 2010, 03:23 PM
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F*&k My Life.... 11k on the motor and the valve broke.. Piston is toast, cylinder is scored up good too. Started to get ready to pull the motor. The block and head have an appointment with the machine shop. What a headache. Has anyone ever seen this happen to a low miles tdi that has been pampered?
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  #27  
Old October 15th, 2010, 03:30 PM
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THAT SUCKS!!!!

Did it drop a valve or was something bouncing around in the cylinder?
Had a small stud roll out of the intake and into a cylinder on the TD5 last and it created a similar mess.

I feel your pain...
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  #28  
Old October 15th, 2010, 03:48 PM
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Just the valve Keith.. It really mashed the shit out of it.. I am more pissed about the block scoring. what a PITA now. Did you fix yours ok?
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  #29  
Old October 15th, 2010, 03:55 PM
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Bummer Randy, sorry to see that mess. A friend of a friend had a valve stick open with about 1100 km on a brand new engine. Ended up needing a con rod, piston, and head. The guy ended up buying all the parts over the counter of a shop down the street from his hotel while in Addis Ababa on business. Man, that really sucks. They should be able to save the block but I fear for the head.
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  #30  
Old October 15th, 2010, 04:55 PM
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I put a new head on from Turner Eng.
I didn't get a lot of block scoring (some) so I just stuck it back together. It's been fine. How deep is the scoring and how far down?
Also the top of the piston looks pretty bad, can you post better pictures?
I would worry about sharp edges on the damaged parts of the piston also if the coating is missing you could have melting problems if you get the EGT's really high. (they really shouldn't get that high anyway)

The "lake" in the center part of the piston is pretty important for good combustion, I recall that the edges should be smooth without inclusions.
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  #31  
Old October 15th, 2010, 08:14 PM
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I have a good source for replacement pistons, standard to at least 020, 105.00 pounds set. I had some scoring on a block, didn't think it was that bad, put everything back and still had a problem. I have the block at the shop now getting bored 020. The rods are pretty inexpensive so I would replace them. If you do not have the timing belt modification kit installed I would do it now. They are not too bad in price.
I thought I had a bad injector pump and had it re-built. As it turn out it was out a little but not so much that it would have caused a failure. Seems that not too much can go wrong with the pump.
I also had the turbo re-built. I didn't think it was too bad. It didn't feel like it had any play? As it turned out it was on the edge of failing. Gpop shop did the job. From what I have been told when they re-build the motors in the UK they do not re-build the turbos out of hand. So who knows how much mileage mine actually had.
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  #32  
Old October 16th, 2010, 07:16 AM
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The piston and the scoring is really bad. Even though the engine only ran for about 5 seconds after this happened. I will be pulling it out and stripping the block down. It will have an appointment with the machine shop. I spoke to them yesterday. He said they could fix the head and that if needed, they could sleeve the cylinder..

The biggest pain in the ass will be stripping down the engine to the block. Not hard just lots of parts all over the place.. err
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  #33  
Old October 16th, 2010, 07:56 AM
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That damage is usually what we get in the racing engines when the valve and piston make contact. Make sure that when you are ready to re-assemble the engine, you check the valve to piston clearances, check that the valves are not bound, and the timing and lash are correct.
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  #34  
Old October 16th, 2010, 09:19 AM
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Sorry to see this Randy, I guess there is no choice but to soldier on with it even though at times you just want to walk away from these things. You seem to have more than your fair share of bad luck with this motor, I am curious if you bought it from someone "reconditioned" or whatever they call it?
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  #35  
Old October 16th, 2010, 10:17 AM
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Actually, this was a NEW Crate motor back when LR still had them. I bought it from M&D back in 2002 when they had the kits avail. I never had a problem with this motor at all. Thats what is killing me. She ran like a top right up until the valve let loose with only 11k pampered miles and oil changes every 3k.. Not sure why this happened though. Kind of odd to me.

The motor I had a few prob's with was a rebuilt unit from M&D.. On that, I changed out the rocker adjuster screws that kept breaking and all is well other then the slight rear main leak. I was told that it may have been a bad set of adjusters..
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  #36  
Old October 16th, 2010, 10:18 AM
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OK, I confused the 2 as the same motor. Sucks eitherway.
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  #37  
Old October 16th, 2010, 12:11 PM
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Yes I confused the two engines also. I thought this was the engine that had broken some rocker arms.

Would recomend not to sleeve that engine. I may have a few good stock used pistons around. But not sure it would help your situation. I have engines out doing well with the oversized Britpart pistons if that helps any.

Would not recomend fixing that cylinder head either. Can you find a good rough donor motor? With useable shortblock components to swap all your new parts onto. And have the head of the donar motor rebuilt. Prices are down on this stuff now. That is my recomendation. Source a rebuildable used stock longblock.

Sorry for your troubles.
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  #38  
Old October 16th, 2010, 12:32 PM
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No.. 2 different engines....

Pendy, would you say to just oversize and re piston the block? What sizes do the the pistons come in?

I have no Idea where to find an old usable block. Sleeving it is no good I guess??? Anyone have some stuff lying around?
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  #39  
Old October 16th, 2010, 03:07 PM
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Sleeving is just no good.

Paddock will carry Brit Part oversized pistons I think .10 and .20 Maybe get the crank and damaged bore checked out first. Get it checked out and then maybe we will search for a core engine for you if that make more sense costwise.

To many horror stories with cylinder heads repaired from that type of damage. It just is not worth the effort to repair it and risk a similar failure. IMO

You running a pyrometer? Would she blow black at all under load? Or did it seem to want more fueling and you did not want to risk the new engine?
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  #40  
Old October 16th, 2010, 05:22 PM
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Thanks Jim, I will keep you posted. Hoping it will clean up with a .10 overbore. As for the head, I will just pick up a new one. Maybe a turner one or something. Would you just get the bare head and check all the valves etc??

No pyro. It was in stock tune so I never thought to get one. It would smoke a little under a heavy load. Is that normal?
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