300tdi timing belt change now problems - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old May 20th, 2009, 02:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by discotdi
Well back at it again and no luck still smokes etc. guy that did the work pulled the front cover today and turned the crank until the mark on the gear and the timing mark on the cover lined up then slid pin into the IP. After this started engine and it still smoked like crazy and ran a little rough ?????? don't know what to do know
There are three items that need to be lines up (IP with the pin, cam shaft, and crank shaft)

the IP you can use a 10mm or so drill bit, works a treat. fit the pin, loosen the 3 bolts on the pulley so it can move slightly.

the camshaft pulley has an arrow cast into the cam-belt "chest" (the aluminium bit) which lines up with a mark on the pulley.

the crankshaft, the keyway (woodruff key) should be in the 12:00 position (and lines up with a mark cast into the aluminium casting)... so if you're gentle, there's no need to actually "lock" the crank, as the crank does take a bit of effort to move around.


The oil on the glowplug... probably just a duff glowplug... there's oil on it because it's not got hot and burnt it off.
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  #22  
Old May 20th, 2009, 08:20 AM
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ditto what he said sounds like the cam is out of time with the crank and IP. For what its worth when we did the belt on my 200 I just slipped the truck into 1st to keep the crank from turning.
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  #23  
Old May 20th, 2009, 09:44 AM
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Firstly thanks to all for your advice. I think it is painfully obvious that I am not a mechanic.This thread is probably getting old for many of you.

So, here is exactly what we did yesterday. I watched while the mechanic I paid to do the work did the following.
1. turned crank to line up keyway to 12 o clock position with mark on cover.
2. rotated camshaft pulley to line up mark on face of camshaft pulley with marked peg
3. slipped locking pin into IP at about 11 o clock position
These thing were done with the belt still in place. started motor still smoked and ran a bit rough when revving the engine slightly.
I can't lock the flywheel because I don't have the hole in the bellhousing for that. I know wrong tranny but that is another issue for a later date.
The sprocket or pulley that connects to the IP and that the belt rides on was also changed when the belt was changed. I wonder if this could somehow be part of the problem. could he have misaligned it or something?Also on the Difflock forum explanation of how to change the belt it states " hope everything lines up, if not then the previous belt was not installed correctly" So. what if the previous belt was not installed correctly? what bearing does that have on the new belt? It is possible that my previous belt was not installed correctly, although the car ran fine before.

So, should I slip into gear to help lock the crank/flywheel and should I start all over by taking off the belt etc and starting fresh?
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  #24  
Old May 20th, 2009, 09:54 AM
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Maybe its the tires! Try some Nittos
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  #25  
Old May 20th, 2009, 10:35 AM
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I wonder if it's maybe the lift pump... when these go weak, they can make the engine smoke and cough & splutter (mine did it twice on my 90)


when the engine is running at idle, crack off the 10mm bleed screw on the top of the fuel filter housing, fuel should come out, if not then remove totally the bleed screw. I could look down inside and see the filter was only about 1/2 full, the lift pump couldn't even supply enough fuel to keep the filter full at idle.
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  #26  
Old May 20th, 2009, 11:40 AM
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What did the compression test show?

You are welcome to ship it out to me if you can find no resolve.

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  #27  
Old May 20th, 2009, 12:17 PM
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Pendy, I did not do a compression test because all of the faults with the engine have occurred after the timing belt change. Ran perfectly before belt change and I only changed the belt because of an oil seal leak.
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  #28  
Old May 20th, 2009, 12:49 PM
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Well

You might want want to do one now.
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  #29  
Old May 20th, 2009, 03:15 PM
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Why?
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  #30  
Old May 20th, 2009, 03:45 PM
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possibility of bent valves
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  #31  
Old May 20th, 2009, 03:54 PM
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You may have to set the timing on the IP now as well. I did this on a perkins Diesel using a special adapter with a dial indicator. Pendy might be able to elaborate...... Something is out of wack due to the belt change.
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  #32  
Old May 20th, 2009, 05:13 PM
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I agree with Pendy about the compression testing - I don't think I'm going to install another one without pulling the glowplugs and doing a compression test first thing. It is too simple and quick not to do it - and bent rods and valves happen in a heartbeat. (Of course, I bought the tester and I might as well use it.) But seriously, I had a bent rod on one engine - tons of smoke and another engine was so carbonized the valves wouldn't close and it wouldn't start. Compression testing got to the answer fairly quickly in both cases. If you question whether the guy messed up the IP, I would take it to a diesel shop and have them test it - see if the timing is correct.
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  #33  
Old May 20th, 2009, 05:24 PM
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Well I guess I could do one, but I really don't understand how a rod or the valves could be bent when the car was fine then changed belt car not fine lots of smoke, none before. at what point could they have been damaged? Guess I need to find a diesel shop
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  #34  
Old May 20th, 2009, 05:31 PM
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Did the shop doing the timing belt loosen the large nut on the injection pump when they were first trying to do the T-belt?

Compression test gives you a baseline. So you do not do a bunch of other unnecessary testing/work.
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  #35  
Old May 20th, 2009, 05:49 PM
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he replaced the sprocket that goes into the IP. the brass colored gear on the left. I suppose that would require removal of that nut. I will ask him tomorrow.
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  #36  
Old May 20th, 2009, 06:25 PM
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Are these interference motors? Could he have done damage?
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  #37  
Old May 20th, 2009, 06:27 PM
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All diesels must be interference engines.
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  #38  
Old May 20th, 2009, 06:31 PM
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Now I am really confused, interferance motors?
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  #39  
Old May 20th, 2009, 07:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by discotdi
Now I am really confused, interferance motors?
It means that if the timing is off or the timing belt breaks the pistons can smack the valves.
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  #40  
Old May 21st, 2009, 04:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by discotdi
3. slipped locking pin into IP at about 11 o clock position
Another quick thought.....

sometimes when you insert the locking pin through the IP pulley, it can get stuck in the cast webs of the timing chest instead of going into the "hole" where it's supposed to.

IF you look at the IP, you'll see that it's mounted at an angle on the side of the engine, however the hole for the pin is at the 12:00 position on the pump, so imagine you've taken the pump off the engine and have it sat on the bench, perfectly "upright", then the hole will be at 12:00

by the sounds of things, saying it's about the 11:00 position, sounds about right, but still worth checking.
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