300tdi Timing Belt Change - Defender Source
Defender Source  

Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions


Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old December 14th, 2011, 11:41 AM
Manimal's Avatar
Manimal
Status: Offline
Carl Jonsson
1995 NAS D90 #219
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 3,236
300tdi Timing Belt Change

I'm due for a timing belt change. I have read all the pertinent threads related to this but I still can't decide if its likely that a mechanical novice like myself is likely to pull it off or if I should pay $1200-$1500 (includes radiator and intercooler cleaning) to have it done. The more I read, the more I worry about screwing it up even though everyone says its easy. Any other first timers out there have an opinion?

There's supposed to be a good diff lock article on changing the timing belt. Anyone have it? Search only revealed a bunch of forum discussions.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2  
Old December 14th, 2011, 11:55 AM
D90user's Avatar
D90user
Status: Offline
steve
109/110 ambulance-55 series I
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Nevada
Posts: 1,447
Just do it!
First time I did it I was nervous from all the BS online. It is really quite straight forward. Some sort of flywheel locking tool is necessary and the drill bit works fine for the IP. It is much easier with the rad out.

Are you changing any of the gears? or just the tentioner/pulley/belt?
I ask because I had a hell of a time getting the gear off to update it... worth planning a head for.

Just do it.

Edit:
I can find the diff lock article either... the manual is right on though.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old December 14th, 2011, 11:56 AM
Overlander's Avatar
Overlander
Status: Offline
mark kellgren
in between D's in an 04 D2
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 6,531
Registry
theres a good series of youtube videos on it so you can visualize it!

------ Follow up post added December 14th, 2011 11:58 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander
theres a good series of youtube videos on it so you can visualize it!
look at Trailfitter's videos
__________________
Mark Kellgren
KM4BOR

ISIL and al qaeda can go F*ck themselves...
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #4  
Old December 14th, 2011, 12:03 PM
Manimal's Avatar
Manimal
Status: Offline
Carl Jonsson
1995 NAS D90 #219
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 3,236
Thanks! I don't mind getting some proper tools to be safe. How about these: http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-1...00-300tdi.aspx Also I bought the timing belt upgrade kit just in case it hadn't been done on mine yet. Is it hard to change the pulleys etc?

Rad would come out as I would like to clean it and the intercooler while I'm at it. Do I need to get a wrench where you can adjust the torque? There workshop manual has specs for how tight each bolt should be, right? I assume thats important?

I can't find the Diff Lock write up.

Which gears are you referring to, Steve? I don't think so. I'm only changing what is included in the timing belt upgrade kit.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old December 14th, 2011, 12:08 PM
Manimal's Avatar
Manimal
Status: Offline
Carl Jonsson
1995 NAS D90 #219
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 3,236
Here's whats included in the timing belt upgrade kit.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	STC4096L.jpg
Views:	452
Size:	52.9 KB
ID:	44709  
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old December 14th, 2011, 12:38 PM
Capt Milks's Avatar
Capt Milks
Status: Offline
Mike
Defender V-8, Defender 2.25
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: United States
Posts: 1,798
The upgrade kit changes two of the pulleys and a new tensioner and belt. You will need to get a pulley puller And figure a way to get a pin in the flywheel to lock it while you are putting on the new belt. Making sure that you have the proper tension and all the marks are lined up can be a bit fidgety but is simple once you have a few tricks. I also couldn't find the diff lock write up, strange found this one however, http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=22319
__________________
Land Rover 110
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old December 14th, 2011, 04:15 PM
Viton's Avatar
Viton
Status: Offline
Deaf Ember
Smart 4x4
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: La
Posts: 1,231
Couple of things to help your confidence level. Do pull the grill, rad & intercooler, exposing the whole face of the engine. Removing the front crank pulley is the hardest part of the job. Before you loosen the bolt put a spot of paint on the bolt and correspondingly with the pulley (to help know you tightened up about the same when you reassemble). I use a leather strap to hold the pulley and a 3/4" drive breaker bar & socket, and a 2lb sledge to loosen the bolt (hey... works for me) by wacking on the breaker bar. The paint spots here will help to let you know if it's coming loose. Once you have the front cover off, exposing the belt & gears, rotate the belt around until you can get a drill bit in the gear in the IP into the hole on the IP. No need to pin the fly-wheel or cam, the crank has an alignment point off to it's left side. NOW comes the confidence part. Paint spots on the belt and correspondingly on timing gears (IP, cam, Crank). Now you have absolute reference points on the belt & gears. Remove the old belt. Transfer the paint marks onto the new belt. If you're EXTRA paranoid (like me) count the teeth on the old & new belt between the paint marks to insure exact placement of the transfered spots. After replacing crank seal, reassemble.

One other thing, there are 2 different types of belt tensioner assemblies, which one you have depends on the age of your motor. To see the differences, look on Rovah Farms site. You may want to wait to buy the correct set until you actually see which type your motor has. If your crank drive doesn't have the lip on the gear (keeps the belt from wandering) you'll want the set that you show in post #5. The difference is, belt guide lip vs. no belt lip.

I've changed my belt twice now and there's no reason to replace the crank belt gear if yours is the type shown in the parts photo shown in post #5. When you go to re-tighten the main crank bolt, you'll now appreciate the previously applied paint spots on the pulley & bolt.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old December 14th, 2011, 04:48 PM
Uncle Douglas's Avatar
Uncle Douglas
Status: Offline
Doug Crowther
A defender in every driveway-motto
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Gods Country- Central Virginia
Posts: 11,831
Registry
$1500 sounds excessive
__________________
Good judgement comes from experience,experience comes from bad judgement.

Dividing Creek Imports
Worldwide Vehicle Shipment and Importation Service
Restoration & Modification work


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

410.693.1391


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old December 14th, 2011, 05:06 PM
junkyddog11's Avatar
junkyddog11
Status: Offline
oil soaked filter
95 RRC 300tdi
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: No. Berwick, Maine
Posts: 1,253
Quote:
Originally Posted by 130Tdi View Post
$1500 sounds excessive
yeah, if I charged that much I might actually make some money.

I'm surprised how far out of time some motors are. A couple of degrees makes a big difference. It's really an easy job to change out a belt. A little bit harder to do a really good job at it.
__________________
Matt Browne


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
new expansion complete. Not only are we the only Rover shop in Eliot Maine...now we're also the biggest.

"Dedicated to the resurrection of junk through engineering?"
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old December 14th, 2011, 05:13 PM
Manimal's Avatar
Manimal
Status: Offline
Carl Jonsson
1995 NAS D90 #219
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 3,236
It does and I would have provided all the parts. It was actually $1500-1800!

Aside from timing belt I had asked for:
• Install Timing Kit Upgrade and replace belt.
• Re-core Radiator
• Flush Turbo Intercooler.
• Replace Water Pump.
• Replace serpentine/fan belt tensioner.
• Change gear shifter oil.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 130Tdi View Post
$1500 sounds excessive
__________________
Land Rovers. A loosely associated collection of parts, generally traveling in the same direction.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old December 14th, 2011, 05:14 PM
sonoronos's Avatar
sonoronos
Status: Offline
Ed
None
Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 5,523
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manimal View Post
or if I should pay $1200-$1500 (includes radiator and intercooler cleaning) to have it done.
It is not rocket science. I did it myself in a night with basic tools. Save yourself a thousand dollars or more
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old December 14th, 2011, 05:16 PM
Manimal's Avatar
Manimal
Status: Offline
Carl Jonsson
1995 NAS D90 #219
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 3,236
Absolutely! I'm definitely doing it myself now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
It is not rocket science. I did it myself in a night with basic tools. Save yourself a thousand dollars or more
------ Follow up post added December 14th, 2011 05:18 PM ------

Thanks Dennis!

Is your last name really MacGyver?

Imagine that. I'm getting tech advice from a MacGyver.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis View Post
Couple of things to help your confidence level. Do pull the grill, rad & intercooler, exposing the whole face of the engine. Removing the front crank pulley is the hardest part of the job. Before you loosen the bolt put a spot of paint on the bolt and correspondingly with the pulley (to help know you tightened up about the same when you reassemble). I use a leather strap to hold the pulley and a 3/4" drive breaker bar & socket, and a 2lb sledge to loosen the bolt (hey... works for me) by wacking on the breaker bar. The paint spots here will help to let you know if it's coming loose. Once you have the front cover off, exposing the belt & gears, rotate the belt around until you can get a drill bit in the gear in the IP into the hole on the IP. No need to pin the fly-wheel or cam, the crank has an alignment point off to it's left side. NOW comes the confidence part. Paint spots on the belt and correspondingly on timing gears (IP, cam, Crank). Now you have absolute reference points on the belt & gears. Remove the old belt. Transfer the paint marks onto the new belt. If you're EXTRA paranoid (like me) count the teeth on the old & new belt between the paint marks to insure exact placement of the transfered spots. After replacing crank seal, reassemble.

One other thing, there are 2 different types of belt tensioner assemblies, which one you have depends on the age of your motor. To see the differences, look on Rovah Farms site. You may want to wait to buy the correct set until you actually see which type your motor has. If your crank drive doesn't have the lip on the gear (keeps the belt from wandering) you'll want the set that you show in post #5. The difference is, belt guide lip vs. no belt lip.

I've changed my belt twice now and there's no reason to replace the crank belt gear if yours is the type shown in the parts photo shown in post #5. When you go to re-tighten the main crank bolt, you'll now appreciate the previously applied paint spots on the pulley & bolt.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old December 14th, 2011, 07:07 PM
Viton's Avatar
Viton
Status: Offline
Deaf Ember
Smart 4x4
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: La
Posts: 1,231
Most of the items are easily done yourself on post #10.

Radiator, if you're not running hot, just rinse it out with water (I can NEVER get mine past past the half way point on the temp guage no matter how slow & steep I can go... and pulling a tent trailer).

Intercooler, put a pint of gas in, it shake it around, pour out, repeat, set in the sun to dry.

Water pump is easy to replace anytime. Keep a spare at home, on a trip, take it with you. With the serp off, try to wiggle it up & down, if it moves replace it. Mine was worn but not leaking, the pump vanes were rubbing the main housing. Still, keep a spare on hand you won't find one at NAPA on a road trip.

Belt tensioner. Bearing can fail. Replace the bearing yourself NAPA part # 6203-2RSJ. Again keep a spare. May take a little effort to get the snap ring out. Once it's out, file a end notch in it for the future R&R.

Gear shifter oil, well I have an auto-box.... you got MacGyver on that one.

My alternator is slowly going bad, alt lamp slightly glows at idle. The factory alternators are simple ones, AMR4249, Lucas A127, is actually an old Ford part #. Google: alternator A127. British Pacific $ 122.12, Atlantic British $199 (too much!!), RovahFarm, $169 for the AMR4249 (70amp), but I suspect the STC234 for $129 is the same, less 5 amps. Yes, I have a spare on hand.

Do these things, and you too can go through a last name change !! Upon completion, I'll send you the forms.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old December 14th, 2011, 11:42 PM
Manimal's Avatar
Manimal
Status: Offline
Carl Jonsson
1995 NAS D90 #219
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 3,236
It's been about 8 years since engine install so that's why I'm replacing the parts mentioned as preventative maintenance. I'd like to clean the radiator. What should I use? The needle does move around on longer trips (2+ hours driving). Also, what coolant do you guys recommend? Have a favorite?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis View Post
Radiator, if you're not running hot, just rinse it out with water (I can NEVER get mine past past the half way point on the temp guage no matter how slow & steep I can go... and pulling a tent trailer).
Gas? If I don't have gas around the garage is there something better to use?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis View Post
Intercooler, put a pint of gas in, it shake it around, pour out, repeat, set in the sun to dry.
I have a spare. I was going to replace it as preventative maintenance and keep the old one as back up for travel.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis View Post
Water pump is easy to replace anytime. Keep a spare at home, on a trip, take it with you. With the serp off, try to wiggle it up & down, if it moves replace it. Mine was worn but not leaking, the pump vanes were rubbing the main housing. Still, keep a spare on hand you won't find one at NAPA on a road trip.
I just replaced the bearing since it was squealing. New one is fine except I had to ruin the circlip to get it out so the current one doesn't have one. I was going to replace it with a new tensioner and keep the old one for spare.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis View Post
Belt tensioner. Bearing can fail. Replace the bearing yourself NAPA part # 6203-2RSJ. Again keep a spare. May take a little effort to get the snap ring out. Once it's out, file a end notch in it for the future R&R.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old December 15th, 2011, 11:22 AM
Viton's Avatar
Viton
Status: Offline
Deaf Ember
Smart 4x4
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: La
Posts: 1,231
I've always used Prestone diluted to 50% with distilled water. I'd go buy a plastic 1 gallon gas can @ WalMart and use gas.
You know the US government now mandates that gas cans be child proof? Good thing, it was so hard to keep my kids from drinking that tasty stuff when I had a full can in the garage.
You could use some straight Simple Green to clean out your IC but you'll need to rinse thoroughly to get it all out.

Too bad about the circlip, that'll set your MacGyver status back awhile (I'll put the forms away....for now).
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old December 15th, 2011, 02:20 PM
sonoronos's Avatar
sonoronos
Status: Offline
Ed
None
Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 5,523
Registry
Alternatives to gas: Naphtha, Toluene, Xylene, Brake Parts Cleaner, Carb Cleaner.

Any short-chain aromatic hydrocarbon. What you are doing is dissolving the oil in the IC, left there because of whatever passes through the turbo seals.
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old December 15th, 2011, 02:24 PM
Ren Ching's Avatar
Ren Ching
Status: Offline
Skinny Pete
'84 90 "Yamelo"/'88 RRC "Chewbacca"
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Downtown
Posts: 4,696
Registry
Ed must be fun to have around at bonfires.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Alternatives to gas: Naphtha, Toluene, Xylene, Brake Parts Cleaner, Carb Cleaner.

Any short-chain aromatic hydrocarbon. What you are doing is dissolving the oil in the IC, left there because of whatever passes through the turbo seals.
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old December 15th, 2011, 07:25 PM
Uncle Douglas's Avatar
Uncle Douglas
Status: Offline
Doug Crowther
A defender in every driveway-motto
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Gods Country- Central Virginia
Posts: 11,831
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Alternatives to gas: Naphtha, Toluene, Xylene, Brake Parts Cleaner, Carb Cleaner.

Any short-chain aromatic hydrocarbon. What you are doing is dissolving the oil in the IC, left there because of whatever passes through the turbo seals.
a lot of the oil in tdi intercoolers is coming from the crankcase air/oil seperator on the side of the head that doesn't work so well.
__________________
Good judgement comes from experience,experience comes from bad judgement.

Dividing Creek Imports
Worldwide Vehicle Shipment and Importation Service
Restoration & Modification work


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

410.693.1391


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old December 19th, 2011, 12:06 AM
nathanwind's Avatar
nathanwind
Status: Offline
Jason Lavender
88-90-127-LR3
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Saratoga NY
Posts: 8,741
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching View Post
Ed must be fun to have around at bonfires.
I'd assume he's equally as good at spelling bee's and obscure word contests.
__________________
Jason Lavender
'71 Series IIA
'88 127 #F96 DKN
'94 90 NAS #324
'06 LR3 HSE

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

(10% discount for DSource members, use coupon code "D90")

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old December 21st, 2011, 12:29 PM
Manimal's Avatar
Manimal
Status: Offline
Carl Jonsson
1995 NAS D90 #219
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 3,236
Tools are ordered. So far I got the aftermarket timing tools kit that includes:

Crankshaft Damper Puller.
Injection Pump Gear Locking Tool.
Injection Pump Timing Pin.
Flywheel Timing Tool.
EDC Timing Pin.

I also ordered a viscous fan wrench and Hylomar. Other than that are there any other specialty tools that I am missing? If I do upgrade the timing pulleys (if they are the old kind I will replace them) do I need a special tool for this? A "Pulley Puller"? Also, do you guys put Hylomar on the timing cover gasket when re-installing?
Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions

Tags
300tdi, tdi

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
300Tdi Timing belt failure and repair.. TDI Guy Defender Technical Discussions 46 November 11th, 2010 12:53 PM
shop to change timing belt 300tdi - DC Metro area hillstrubl Defender Technical Discussions 17 July 19th, 2010 06:39 PM
300tdi timing belt change now problems discotdi Defender Technical Discussions 57 June 4th, 2009 10:10 PM
300tdi timing belt check? D90user Defender Technical Discussions 6 April 5th, 2006 07:24 AM
300 Tdi timing belt install roverboy Defender Technical Discussions 2 March 9th, 2006 04:44 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:38 AM.


Copyright