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  #61  
Old March 6th, 2012, 06:35 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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Sure thing! When does the rig arrive?
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  #62  
Old March 11th, 2012, 04:57 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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I'm back at it.

The oil seal is greased and appears to be in there but the crankshaft sprocket does not sit flush as it is suppose to. There is a gap that I can't seem to close. What tools do you use for this? Is there a special tool? I thought of using the crank pulley bolt and a block to push it in with but I am concerned about messing with the timing. Any other ideas?

Also, how do I remove the crankshaft gasket in the timing cover?

Lastly, there is a collar that sits between the crankshaft pulley and the timing cover. It was dented when i used the timing kit removal tool. Is it needed?
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  #63  
Old March 11th, 2012, 08:05 PM
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Using the crank bolt is the way I get the pulley back into position, I've done it twice now with no ill effects on a new gasket. Don't torque it, smoothly screw it in, just keep the alignment key straight up at 12 O'clock. You may want to put a little lube on the pulley shaft, where it will push into the seal more smoothly.

Timing cover gasket, I just left the original in since I don't have water to cross here in Nevada. I think the timing cover gasket has a weird configuration, it's like it's made of 2 pieces. One sticking (pressed onto) to the cover and the other spins with the crank shaft. Does that make sense?
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  #64  
Old March 11th, 2012, 09:21 PM
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Chuck
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Use crank bolt to snug up the crank pulley. If your pulley is lined up with the woodruff keys, just lube the nose of the crank with a little grease and it will press in with the bolt real easy. Lock your flywheel in the tdc position. Drive the crank seal out of the cover with a 1-1/2" socket.
"Collar"...do you mean a metal lip attached to the crank pulley? If so, replace crank pulley with a new one.
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  #65  
Old March 11th, 2012, 10:29 PM
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That's great thanks. I was initially apprehensive about doing this but since its locked in two placed (with pins) it shouldn't move, right? It was mostly the O-ring giving me a hard time but it finally went in.

You're right about the timing cover gasket. There appears to be a metal ring on the inside that fits into the gasket and holds it in place. No clue how to get it off though without possibly destroying both. Has anyone replaced this gasket before? The metal ring on the inside appears fragile.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis View Post
Using the crank bolt is the way I get the pulley back into position, I've done it twice now with no ill effects on a new gasket. Don't torque it, smoothly screw it in, just keep the alignment key straight up at 12 O'clock. You may want to put a little lube on the pulley shaft, where it will push into the seal more smoothly.

Timing cover gasket, I just left the original in since I don't have water to cross here in Nevada. I think the timing cover gasket has a weird configuration, it's like it's made of 2 pieces. One sticking (pressed onto) to the cover and the other spins with the crank shaft. Does that make sense?
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  #66  
Old March 11th, 2012, 10:31 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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Thanks!

By collar, I mean this thing (see image). It sits between crank pulley and timing cover. Protects the timing cover gasket perhaps? Either way mine got dented when removing the pulley with the pulley remover. Reuse or buy new? Is it even needed?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Surfin' Elvis View Post
Use crank bolt to snug up the crank pulley. If your pulley is lined up with the woodruff keys, just lube the nose of the crank with a little grease and it will press in with the bolt real easy. Lock your flywheel in the tdc position. Drive the crank seal out of the cover with a 1-1/2" socket.
"Collar"...do you mean a metal lip attached to the crank pulley? If so, replace crank pulley with a new one.
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  #67  
Old March 11th, 2012, 10:35 PM
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Jason.

My ERR4576 Timing Cover Seal looks a little different than the old seal that is currently in the timing cover. The old one also has a metal ring that seems to fit into it and hold it in place. I'm not sure if this metal ring will fit the new seal and the part numbers are correct so I am a little confused...

Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
Correct...do the seals so I've been told. Here's my running list (obviously does not include the timing belt kit with updated tensioners/pulleys/etc):

ERR4576 $13.53 cover seal
ERR4710 $5.97 crankshaft oring
ERR3356 $22.74 camshaft seal
ERR4575 $25.98 crankshaft seal
New cover bolts?
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  #68  
Old March 12th, 2012, 12:06 AM
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I'd say "you got your tit in a ringer" on this one.

The picture is of a thing that is spot welded to the back of the main crank pulley. It's purpose is to fling mud off and keep mud away from the seal on the timing belt cover. Unless you can figure out exactly how to place it, weld it & have it balanced, you are faced with 2 options.

Since this ring and pulley are balanced, you can (1) take it some where & have it tacked back on and
RE-BALANCED or (2) replace it with another, new or used.

This is a balanced item so you can't simply discard it as it is part of the balancing of the entire unit. To just put the pulley back on at this point would risk an imbalanced item (pulley) on the main crank which could lead to seal failure or more seriously, main bearing failure, and possible crankshaft destruction.

Sorry for the bad news.
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  #69  
Old March 12th, 2012, 12:15 AM
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Dennis,

I don't think this collar was attached to the pulley to begin with. Those 4 marks are from my bolts when I applied the pulley puller kit to remove the pulley. The bolts from the kit pushed through the holes on the pulley and landed on this collar where they dug in as the pulley came off. I'll have to double check on that but I'm pretty certain it was never attached.

Plus it wouldn't make sense for it to be tacked to the pulley because it wouldn't be compatible with the "official" timing kit then. It would be torn off every time the pulley puller is used. I think this piece doesn't move when its in place but the pulley does. Make sense?

It's a thin piece of metal. Here's a back image.
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  #70  
Old March 12th, 2012, 12:43 AM
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Carl Jonsson
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Apparently its called a "Flinger".
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  #71  
Old March 12th, 2012, 01:06 AM
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Just crawled under my truck and my "flinger" is tight up against my pulley. I don't remember it being a separate item in the sequence upon re-installation, but maybe it is. It's been 8 months since I had mine apart.

Yes, the spots did look like tack welds. What you are showing as the "back image side" does go directly against the timing cover to shield the gasket and the bolt spot side goes toward the pulley. I do get it how the puller pressed those spots onto the flinger as the 4 holes are drilled all the way through & threaded. Never needed a puller to get mine off.

What keeps the flinger in a solid position ( so it doesn't spin)?

Sorry for the heart attack.
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  #72  
Old March 18th, 2012, 12:57 PM
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What about the timing cover oil seal. It appears very difficult to remove without breaking the metal retainer ring on the back. How did you get it out?
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  #73  
Old March 18th, 2012, 01:09 PM
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I never changed mine. Since deep water is a rare thing in the desert, I saw no need to change it. I've never even put my wading plug in.

I'd think you could grab it with some channel locks and deform it inwards to get it out.
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  #74  
Old March 18th, 2012, 03:07 PM
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Well, I'm resorting to brute force...
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  #75  
Old March 18th, 2012, 04:23 PM
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Am I the first person on here to ever replace the timing cover oil seal?

Something is not right.

Out of the 3 sources of instructions (the workshop manual being the most useless) they all say to gently lever the timing cover oil seal out. Well, that is an impossibility. The installed seal was U-shaped and there was no way that it would come out without significant force. Other problem is that it looks different than the replacement seal (ERR4576) which I know is the correct part. Any idea why? The old seal pictured had rubber on it but it got torn off while trying to remove it.

I'm now stuck. If I go any further brutalizing this thing I'm probably going to have to buy a new timing cover. I don't think I got the whole seal out of the cover (see pictures) but if I continue I'm afraid I'll ruin it. Am I the only person on here who has ever replaced the timing cover seal? Looking at the pictures can anyone tell me if I removed the entire seal or not? What am I looking at here? Did I damage anything?

It's funny that what I thought would be the hardest part about the timing belt change turned out to be quite easy and vice versa. Youtoob and the internets are of no help either. Anyone who has done the timing cover seals before, your advice would be highly appreciated.
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  #76  
Old March 18th, 2012, 04:54 PM
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It appears that this is my old seal. I assume that this is an old style?

Bueller? Bueller?
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  #77  
Old March 18th, 2012, 06:34 PM
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Well I bought my engine new in 2001 (mfg may '01) and it has the double metal, the inner piece spins inside the outer piece that is "stuck" to the timing cover ( ERR7143 ), like you show in your link. So is it an "old style" I don't know. Discussed this back on post #63 in this thread.

The "new seal" you show in your post #75 ( ERR4576 ) I think would have issues since it is fixed against the timing cover, With no ability to be lubricated by oil or grease, I think it would literally "flame-out" in just a few miles.

Oh my gosh, your'e gonna die when you see how much RN wants for it.

I get my UK parts from
http://www.lrspareparts.com/eshop/ca...RR7143&x=6&y=9
Just bought a new set of Bosch injectors (ERR3339) for 268 UK pounds from them.
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  #78  
Old March 19th, 2012, 12:21 AM
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Well I installed it. I will check back after driving it for a while to see how the seal is doing. I don't know if its old or new but when searching on brit-car for ERR7143 the ERR4576 comes up instead. I finally got all the seal parts out and installed the new one. No clue how it is supposed to fit in there. Since its not as tall I don't know if it should fit flush with front or rear edge of housing. Its all a mystery apparently, not shown in any manuals or on web. I guess I'll just check back to see how its doing.

I was going to replace my serpentine belt tensioner when I noticed that the new tensioner ERR3440G is not identical to my current one. It's mirrored! The spring pushed it the other direction and makes it unusable on my engine. Am I missing something here?
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  #79  
Old March 19th, 2012, 01:17 AM
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The tensioner is for another engine, probably a V8. Send it back for credit.

The tensioner you have is serviceable, all it needs is a new bearing, Napa Part # 6203-2RSJ. Buy 2, one to use another for a spare. Cost $11 each.

It can be kind of difficult to get the snap ring out that keeps it in place as it has no "helper" notch on the either end. Once out, file a notch in one end for future removal. Grease the bearing exterior up to help the re-installation. Pendy opens up the bearing seal and inserts extra grease on the bearings, then puts the seal back on the bearing.
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  #80  
Old March 19th, 2012, 10:45 AM
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It appears I ordered the wrong one as they did not specify engine type. I already replaced the bearing on my existing one. The circlip was destroyed in the process of getting it out and it is unobtainium apparently.
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