300tdi Timing Belt Change - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old December 21st, 2011, 12:34 PM
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Jason Lavender
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My understanding is that you'll also need this:
http://www.difflock.com/buyersguide/...ion-tool.shtml
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  #22  
Old December 21st, 2011, 11:20 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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I'm covered. The Crankshaft Damper Puller in my kit is the same thing except Difflock calls it Crankshaft Anti-Rotation Tool. Land Rover called it LRT-12-080 (Crank Pulley Hold Tool) and its $300. They all do the same thing. I found a cheap aftermarket one for 26 here if anyone will be looking in the future: Glencoyne 4x4

------ Follow up post added December 21st, 2011 11:21 PM ------

Anyone have good recommendations for what type of Torque Wrench to get or will anything do?
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  #23  
Old December 21st, 2011, 11:40 PM
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Are you sure...my understanding is you'll need the anti rotation tool to hold it while you undo the crankshaft bolt (and also to tighten it). The "puller" that's in the kit is something different.
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  #24  
Old December 21st, 2011, 11:40 PM
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For those who have done this already, did you replace the oil seals and the crankshaft O-ring as well? My kit does not include them. Here what one gentleman had to say on that topic:

"Just replacing the belt and not the tensioner and idler is a false economy: the roller bearings are designed to last 60,000 miles, not 120,000. Leaking oil seals on the crankshaft or camshaft will soak the belt in oil and reduce its life."
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  #25  
Old December 21st, 2011, 11:43 PM
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Correct...do the seals so I've been told. Here's my running list (obviously does not include the timing belt kit with updated tensioners/pulleys/etc):

ERR4576 $13.53 cover seal
ERR4710 $5.97 crankshaft oring
ERR3356 $22.74 camshaft seal
ERR4575 $25.98 crankshaft seal
New cover bolts?
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  #26  
Old December 21st, 2011, 11:48 PM
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Not quite sure. But it sounds like it. From Glencoyne 4x4: "The first problem you are likely to encounter is removing the bolt which secures the front pulley / vibration damper assembly to the crankshaft."

Crankshaft Damper Puller = For removing the vibration damper (front pulley) off of the crankshaft?

Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
Are you sure...my understanding is you'll need the anti rotation tool to hold it while you undo the crankshaft bolt (and also to tighten it). The "puller" that's in the kit is something different.
------ Follow up post added December 21st, 2011 11:50 PM ------

Thanks! Gotta place another order.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
Correct...do the seals so I've been told. Here's my running list (obviously does not include the timing belt kit with updated tensioners/pulleys/etc):

ERR4576 $13.53 cover seal
ERR4710 $5.97 crankshaft oring
ERR3356 $22.74 camshaft seal
ERR4575 $25.98 crankshaft seal
New cover bolts?
------ Follow up post added December 21st, 2011 11:54 PM ------

$23 and 26!? I found both for 1.95 each.
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  #27  
Old December 22nd, 2011, 12:08 AM
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Whoops, didn't realize I had the prices in there. I had scouted some stateside places, but was planning to order from lrseries.com for a fraction of the price.
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  #28  
Old December 22nd, 2011, 12:24 AM
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You were right. I have the crank damper puller. I need the hold (anti rotational) tool as well. Phew!
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  #29  
Old December 22nd, 2011, 07:46 PM
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I was able to loosen the bolt on mine by putting the transmission in 5th gear and setting the parking brake. Tightening the bolt was a bit more difficult, but still possible without the tool to hold the flywheel in place.
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  #30  
Old January 16th, 2012, 10:53 AM
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Loosen the crank pulley bolt with the appropriate (6-sided!) socket attached to a long breaker bar against the bottom of the passenger side frame rail (LH drive). Disconnect the wire from your fuel stop solenoid, bump the starter. Easy.
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  #31  
Old January 25th, 2012, 05:22 AM
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It's easy enough to make the locking pin and crank holding tools, and they make life so much easier when doing the timing belt.
Having said that, I know of Land Rover workshops using ground down cold chisels to use as a crank locking tool....

I made the locking pin by finding a BSP plug to screw into the bellhousing (might be a little difficult in NA) and bored/threaded it to take a 6mm bolt with the end of the bolt turned to 5mm to engage the slot in the bellhousing.

I also made the crank holding tool, or at least drew it up and cut the stock and a mate turned and welded the bits together.

You really need a 3/4" drive socket on the crank bolt too when doing it up, 1/2" drive just doesn't cut it.
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  #32  
Old February 19th, 2012, 10:42 AM
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So I have started the timing belt change. Rad is drained, Fan and shroud are out, belt off, damper off and the infamous Dog Nut has been loosened.

Here's my question for the moment. I don't have a stock radiator/intercooler set up. My radiator also has what appears to be two oil lines going into it and I have a full size Allard Intercooler in front of the radiator. It's super tight in there so I am a little concerned about removing both successfully.

My questions is, do I have to drain the engine oil in order to remove the rad? How would I go about this? Can I plug the oil lines going into the rad while working on it? I guess I am wondering if I can get away with replacing the timing belt without removing rad and intercooler. I know I probably should, I am just hesitant to make a mess. Someone school me about this set up. Thanks!
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  #33  
Old February 19th, 2012, 10:52 AM
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My radiator has oil lines going to it as well. Just remove the lines and put some rags on the frame rail to catch the oil and put a drain pan underneath.
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  #34  
Old February 19th, 2012, 10:54 AM
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That's it? How much oil should I expect? I assume once its below a certain point it will stop and then I can just top it off when I'm done?
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  #35  
Old February 19th, 2012, 11:14 AM
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It's the engine oil cooler circuit.
There's just a couple of hundred ml's of oil in those pipes, plus what's in the cooler, maybe 500ml total.

Cap both hoses plus oil cooler fittings when you've undone it, and you'll need two new O rings for the fittings when re-assembling.
They're tiny little suckers in section, not a standard size IIRC.

It's a lot easier to do the timing belt with the rad and IC out of the way.

A couple of tips, only turn the engine one way (normal rotation) when doing the belt, and make sure you use the revised/lower belt tension setting, not the one in the service manual.

If your engine has done more than 160,000km/100,000 miles, I'd suggest replacing the idler and tensioner too as the bearings will be close to the end of their lives IME.
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  #36  
Old February 19th, 2012, 11:59 AM
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Thanks Rick!

Is there a plug or cap I can buy that fits these oil cooler fittings? I prefer not to use a rag in case I have to leave it in this state for a couple of weeks.

What is the part number for those O rings? Is this rad and oil cooler assembly in the parts book? How do I identify which one I have (since its not stock)?

On normal rotation the belt moves clockwise?

I'm replacing idler and tensioner and seals. Do I need grease or lubricant for any of this? If so what make/type would you recommend?
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  #37  
Old February 19th, 2012, 03:34 PM
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Same O-rings as v8 right? ESR1594L?

What is the revised tension setting for the timing belt?

Quote:
Originally Posted by tdi-rick
Cap both hoses plus oil cooler fittings when you've undone it, and you'll need two new O rings for the fittings when re-assembling.
They're tiny little suckers in section, not a standard size.
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  #38  
Old February 19th, 2012, 03:48 PM
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There was only one genuine Defender 300Tdi radiator and I think the Disco I, RRC and Deefer 300Tdi rads are interchangeable.
Re the caps, I have a selection of various plastic caps I've accumulated over the years but you can use electrical tape too, just be prepared for it to slip all over the place until you wind it up tightly.

My belt's due again, IIRC I used a light smear of anti-seize on the crank nose last time so I could get the damper off easily.
Some people loctite them on (and I think it's mentioned in the Diflock instructions) which becomes ridiculous when you need to do another belt.
It isn't done from the factory, so I don't.
If the crank bolt is done up properly there shouldn't be any damper pulley issues.

Which crank pulley do you have ?
The genuine one with spot welded 'ears' or the aftermarket/Bearmach one piece type ?
FWIW the one piece type is known as being the better pulley but if you have the OE type don't sweat it this time, just acquire it for next time as the spot welded ears are known to fail with a few miles on them.

The revised tension is mentioned in the Difflock guide, IIRC it's 11Nm (roughly 8lb/ft) instead of 15Nm.

If you can't find it, the Difflock guide is here as a PDF so you can print it out and the revised settings are in it http://www.aulro.com/afvb/good-oil/4...ming-belt.html

------ Follow up post added February 20th, 2012 07:53 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Manimal View Post
Same O-rings as v8 right? ESR1594L?

[snip]
Yep.
Should be really cheap.
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  #39  
Old February 19th, 2012, 05:32 PM
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Thanks Rick! I have been looking for the Difflock Article for a while since it is no longer available from their website. I don't know what Crank Pulley I have. I'll have to check.
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  #40  
Old March 4th, 2012, 01:53 PM
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The old crankshaft sprocket is really stuck in there. How do I remove it without completely destroying it?
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