300tdi smoke at neutral throttle - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old March 12th, 2009, 08:39 AM
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Enjoy your trip, the Pisco and Ceviche .
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  #22  
Old March 14th, 2009, 07:38 AM
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Check the lift pump. Do you have a good flow through the bleeder at idle? Weak LP side will give you incomplete combustion when cold and during over run.
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  #23  
Old March 17th, 2009, 11:37 PM
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steve
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thanks for the good advise all.

Matt- Lift pump is newish I changed before I left, no problems at "normal" altitude

Pendy- I will try plugging the tube...never thought of that.

I tried the ATF in the filter 50/50 diesel and two bottle of injector cleaner in the tank ( I have a extra tank). Significantly reduced the smoke. Spent most of the day at 12k+ with a 15,500 peak today and the (abnormal)smoke was lower but still present only at neutral throttle. I see new injectors in my future, but from the advice I see it is nothing to worry about for now.... just averaged 24.7mpg fully loaded on dirt at altitude for 600mi so I really cant complain.

Thanks again
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  #24  
Old September 30th, 2009, 01:00 AM
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steve
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Just finishing the thread.

I finally changed the injectors, no more smoke at neutral throttle, and no more black puffs going up hill..

Granted I'm not at 15,000 ft anymore but I can tell a difference.

I alsy installed a new .2micron fuel filter.

thanks everyone for the suggestions.
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  #25  
Old September 30th, 2009, 01:11 PM
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My 90's 300 has only 65k on it and here in FL it runs clean with no smoke, unless it's under serious load at 800 rpm when I'll get black smoke. When I was at the National Rally this year I noticed serious smoke when idling down from high passes (Black Bear, Mosquito, etc.) in 1st or 2nd gear . Everything is clean and in good condition on mine and all the guys there said that at that altitude and driving at the extreme downward angle sucks oil through and causes it as it cannot burn the fuel efficiently at that altitude. Going uphill or just sitting and idling on level ground I had no smoke (it was pretty gutless in high range at that altitude especially with 4.10s and 35s). My 300 has the zeus gear conversion for timing.

I tend to think this is relatively normal at high altitude based on everyone's comments, but I'm glad to see whatever you have done has helped remedy your problem.

S-P
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  #26  
Old September 30th, 2009, 04:55 PM
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How do you like the Zeus timing gears? is it really noisey?
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  #27  
Old September 30th, 2009, 06:50 PM
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I remember reading some stories of them failing. Any direct experience out there?

How long have you had yours?

My trouble was the injectors... we were not talking about a little black smoke. It was a white cloud.
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  #28  
Old October 1st, 2009, 02:02 PM
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Sean-Paul Ferrera
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Hrm mine was definitely a white cloud. I guess I should look at the injectors. Did you swap them or just clean them?

As far as the Zeus gears go mine have 60k on them and as I've never driven a 300 without them they don't seem too loud to me. I actually think the 300 is relatively quiet, but really my only experience with diesels is either F-250s or large construction equipment so I have no good comparison.

I did read all of the notes on zeus gears, but supposedly the failure rate is quite low I don't remember the % right now and that's why I didn't convert back to a timing belt.

S-P
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  #29  
Old October 1st, 2009, 05:36 PM
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You cant really clean these type of injectors. You can get them new nozzles installed on the injectors, but you may as well get a new set at that point.

Unless it is really bad, I would put it off as lang as you can. They are not cheap.

BTW- a better fuel filter will make them last longer.
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  #30  
Old October 1st, 2009, 10:22 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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Steve,

What kind of fuel filter have you been using? Bosch?

Quote:
Originally Posted by D90user
You cant really clean these type of injectors. You can get them new nozzles installed on the injectors, but you may as well get a new set at that point.

Unless it is really bad, I would put it off as lang as you can. They are not cheap.

BTW- a better fuel filter will make them last longer.
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  #31  
Old October 1st, 2009, 10:48 PM
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I changed the whole assembly to the Stanadyne FM100 head with a .2micron filter.

Ordered from the dieselstore.com

35 for the head
15 per filter
10 on fittings from the hardware store

easy peasy...
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  #32  
Old October 2nd, 2009, 12:51 AM
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Carl Jonsson
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Hmmm. Quite a few to choose from. Is this the one you're talking about:

http://www.thedieselstore.com/templa...A36694&VehNum=

Part#36693?

What fittings did you need for it?

Thanks Steve!


Quote:
Originally Posted by D90user
I changed the whole assembly to the Stanadyne FM100 head with a .2micron filter.

Ordered from the dieselstore.com

35 for the head
15 per filter
10 on fittings from the hardware store

easy peasy...
Follow-up Post:

The 2 and 5 micron filters seems to be intended as secondary filters. Is that how you have it set up?
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  #33  
Old October 2nd, 2009, 01:49 AM
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I have it set as pretty much my primary. I also have the optional sedimenter by the fuel tank. I cant see it as a problem as long as you have a spare filter around just in case. I thought about keeping the original filter in place and running the .2 micron as a true secondary but I have yet to have it clog. I will report if it does...

I am running this head
http://www.thedieselstore.com/templa...48++++++++++++

I have currently have a 4 in filter but I think a 6 in is easy enough to fit, not sure though but I have it in line to try.

The fittings are easy... Lowes or Ace will have them. Brass compression fittings and I cant remember the size but I will check.
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  #34  
Old October 2nd, 2009, 09:07 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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Thanks for the info, Steve.

I am contemplating configuring a dual set up with a 5 micron and a 2 micron filter. I run Biodiesel most of the time. B99 in the summer and B50/B20 in the winter. I might even get that H20 separator attachment as well. I think I will go for the 6". Some of the TDI discussion boards mention a possible restriction with the 4".
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  #35  
Old October 3rd, 2009, 10:40 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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Steve,

Sorry to bother you again. I just bought my truck a year ago and I am still figuring out the last owners set up. It appears I have a sedimenter installed as well (i have the receipt for the installation). Where is it located and how often should it be changed?

Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by D90user
I have it set as pretty much my primary. I also have the optional sedimenter by the fuel tank. I cant see it as a problem as long as you have a spare filter around just in case. I thought about keeping the original filter in place and running the .2 micron as a true secondary but I have yet to have it clog. I will report if it does...

I am running this head
http://www.thedieselstore.com/templa...48++++++++++++

I have currently have a 4 in filter but I think a 6 in is easy enough to fit, not sure though but I have it in line to try.

The fittings are easy... Lowes or Ace will have them. Brass compression fittings and I cant remember the size but I will check.
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  #36  
Old October 4th, 2009, 02:06 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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Is this the sediment filter? (see attached photos).

It is located in the right, rear wheel well.

It has a cover on it.

What kind of filter is this and where do I get it?

It looks like it has never been changed.

Thanks!
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  #37  
Old October 4th, 2009, 02:34 PM
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Does it have a valve on the bottom to drain the water? If so, drain until fuel comes out. That location is a great place to pick up road crud.
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  #38  
Old October 4th, 2009, 03:07 PM
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There is actually no filter element in the sedimentor. It is more of a water separator but it will also trap larger pieces of flotsam and jetsam in your fuel. There should be a plug in the bottom that you remove to drain the unit, but if it's like mine, it's plastic. Always fearful of breaking it, I loosen the bolt on the top of the unit and remove the whole lower portion. Dump the fuel and and water trapped and much easier to clean any crud stuck to the bottom.

Brett
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  #39  
Old October 5th, 2009, 12:05 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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There is indeed a hole and a twist valve on the bottom. Since it probably hasn't been emptied for 5 years I'd like to remove it completely and clean it. How much fuel should I expect to pour out when I remove it? Whatever is in the line, a cup or two? It looks like the bottom portion should just twist off but first I loosen the screw on the top?

Thanks!
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  #40  
Old October 5th, 2009, 08:12 PM
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Just loosen the bolt on the top and the canister will drop away. It is full of fuel so have a bucket down below as you are going to spill some.

Brett
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