300tdi p gasket naked or smear of silicone? - Page 3 - Defender Source
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  #41  
Old September 14th, 2015, 11:52 AM
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Bill
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Don't know a full answer, but I used the expansion plug by the dipstick on the side of the block to drain the block prior to my p-gasket work, and that got the coolant level low enough for that job. But coolant went everywhere. Except in the big bucket I had down there to catch coolant.

I waited until I was bleeding the system and ended up with an over full reservoir to do the mouth full of antifreeze stunt . . .
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  #42  
Old September 14th, 2015, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manimal View Post
Will there always be some stuck in the engine? Does the engine drain when using the lower rad hose to drain?
The water pump is higher than the bottom of the block so you need to remove the block drain bolt to get the last bit out of the engine, at least on a 200TDI and earlier.
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  #43  
Old September 14th, 2015, 12:08 PM
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Man. I didn't know it was there. Should I be using it?

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Originally Posted by mdcoa View Post
Don't know a full answer, but I used the expansion plug by the dipstick on the side of the block to drain the block....
There is a coolant drain plug on the left side of the block.
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  #44  
Old September 14th, 2015, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
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Hook the pump to the small line that goes from the reservoir to the lower rad hose. You can get everything out this way other than what is stuck in the engine. And, yes, it is crazy that the rad does not have a drain valve.
I wonder if putting in a drain valve in this line would work? I hate to add another connection to the hose but that would take a lot of the mess out. I pulled the radiator for my timing belt job and siphoned out what I could and then made a huge mess.
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  #45  
Old September 14th, 2015, 12:35 PM
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I just use an extractor (vacuum hand pump on a container). Suck out the reservoir. Disconnect the line to the lower hose. Hook it up the extractor and suck out all the coolant. Depending on the engine, you may need to push the lower rad hose down so the tee connection is below the radiator.
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  #46  
Old September 14th, 2015, 04:08 PM
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This thread needs some pix I guess?





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  #47  
Old September 14th, 2015, 06:44 PM
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Yup, that's about what it looked like!
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  #48  
Old September 19th, 2015, 10:14 PM
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I replaced the P gasket and water pump gasket today. What do you guys use to scrape off the old gasket? The old is very hard to remove so I used what I think is a metal gasket scraper but it does leave marks. I'm concerned because I assume you're not suppose to marr the mating surface? I don't think a plastic scraper would cut it. All good, can't wait to drive it! I'm off to spend 10 days in the Alvord Desert in Southeastern Oregon in 3 weeks so I'm trying to get as much done as I can. I used Hylomar for the gaskets but much more sparingly this time. Seemed just right.
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  #49  
Old September 20th, 2015, 12:20 AM
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I've always used a metal gasket scrapper. But lots of light motion to slowly eat away at the gasket material. I've never got it perfect. It seems like I always get a little nick here or there. You need to get a feel for the correct angle of the gasket scraper to the metal surface to get it so it grabs gasket and not aluminum. Experience and patience help.
Using the hylomar on the new gasket should help with these little imperfections.
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  #50  
Old September 20th, 2015, 09:49 AM
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I have this one. I try to be gentle but it's hard not to scratch the mating surface. The gasket and Hylomar are quite stubborn.
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  #51  
Old September 20th, 2015, 10:23 AM
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I have a can of "Permatex Gasket Remover." It is an aerosol product. Sprayed on it softens the gasket and makes removal very easy. I also use a Metal scraper but it doesn't take much pressure so generally do not have any nicks or scratches.
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  #52  
Old Yesterday, 05:57 PM
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Well after not too many miles, maybe 1500, my p gasket is leaking. I used the hylomar on the updated metal gasket. Probably won’t get to changing it until after the New Year but I’ll be curious to see where it is leaking.
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  #53  
Old Yesterday, 06:04 PM
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Leaking pic
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  #54  
Old Yesterday, 06:35 PM
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I personally use hondabond HT or black right stuff on all paper gaskets. Both sides of the P gasket on 300s and both sides of the thermostat housing gasket on 200s. I also use ARP thread sealer on any through bolts or bolts close to waterways. Bitch to remove but always works
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  #55  
Old Yesterday, 07:21 PM
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I have a brand new enegine with one of the new style metal p gaskets weeping after a few hours of run time.
Chapped I have to pull it back apart, Not going back with the metal/neoprene gasket.
Only with Land Rover's are brand new parts a total crap shoot.
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  #56  
Old Yesterday, 08:08 PM
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Dang Doug that’s a bummer. I’m considering the yamabond4 as previously mentioned but it thought that’s what hylomar was similar to. Will also look into the hondabond, thanks Matt.
I will probably also get new bolts, I reused mine last time.
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  #57  
Old Yesterday, 08:18 PM
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I imagine hondabond is similar; my yamabond p-gasket job is still going strong at least 15k miles later...


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  #58  
Old Yesterday, 08:33 PM
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Update .... 4 years later the Yamabond #4 is still holding on my P gasket and I run hotter thermostats too.
198 in the summer and 203 in the winter.
It's made for high vibration applications.
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  #59  
Old Yesterday, 09:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Viton View Post
Update .... 4 years later the Yamabond #4 is still holding on my P gasket and I run hotter thermostats too.
198 in the summer and 203 in the winter.
It's made for high vibration applications.
Good stuff! You used yamabond and a metal gasket right?
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  #60  
Old Yesterday, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Broncoduecer View Post
Good stuff! You used yamabond and a metal gasket right?

Pretty sure mine was paper.
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