300tdi p gasket naked or smear of silicone? - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old December 11th, 2012, 08:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
What about Hylomar, which is not silicone based?
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  #22  
Old December 11th, 2012, 09:31 AM
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Ding Ding Ding we have a Winner!
Good...because that's what I used!
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  #23  
Old December 11th, 2012, 10:22 AM
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Good stuff guys! Thanks for all the info.
So that's why hylomar is soo special. I always wondered what they hype was for.
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  #24  
Old December 11th, 2012, 06:26 PM
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Hylomar makes a wide variety of products many of which are silicone based. The universal blue is non silicone and an excellent product. I use it in many areas but usually as a gasket maker not a dressing. It makes a good dressing but I prefer assembly grease. Quicker, cheaper, cleaner and proven effective.
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  #25  
Old January 7th, 2013, 02:38 PM
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I use Wurth DP300.....
Its*an anaerobic sealant that set-up only in the*absence of air and is resistant to all lubricants

https://shoponline.wurthusa.com/wurt...log/group.jsp/
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  #26  
Old August 30th, 2015, 08:27 PM
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Thread resurrection alert. . .

So it looks like my P-gasket was installed with LOTS of silicone (rebuilt engine with roughly 3k miles on it now), and is now leaking right where the blue arrow is.



Anything else I should do while in there on a new(ish) rebuild, which I believe has new water pump and what-not already?
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  #27  
Old August 30th, 2015, 10:10 PM
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I used a Yamaha sealant #4 (on both sides of the P gasket) which is used for high vibration applications.
Two and a half years and still holding
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  #28  
Old September 13th, 2015, 10:12 AM
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My P-gasket is leaking so I was going to replace it today. I replaced the water pump in 2012 so I should have just done the P as well while I was at it... but I didn't. Do I have to remove/replace the water pump gasket in order to get to the P? I do, don't I? I also read that you could/should replace the core plug but I don't have a spare one of those. Is the core plug also one of those, while-you're-at-it things that should be replaced regularly?
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  #29  
Old September 13th, 2015, 10:16 AM
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I also have a new 100A alternator that I've been meaning to install. Would now be a good time to do it? The alternator has to come out anyway for the P, right? Which wire and what gauge do I need to upgrade to with when going from 65 to 100A alternator?
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  #30  
Old September 13th, 2015, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
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Which wire and what gauge do I need to upgrade to with when going from 65 to 100A alternator?
Should you? Yes. Do you have to? No. I put a Disco alternator on my 300 Tdi 110 and didn't do anything to the wiring. I also wasn't running a winch on that truck, so it may be more important for you to run an additional wire or replace yours with a larger wire.
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  #31  
Old September 13th, 2015, 11:52 AM
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You'll be in the neighborhood so I would do the alternator as well. You can do the p gasket without disturbing the water pump. The whole bracket that mounts the alternator and that houses the water pump comes off. Minimum 8 awg on the new wire.
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  #32  
Old September 13th, 2015, 02:47 PM
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Does your wire go directly to the starter from the alternator? Mine loops around the engine counter clock wise and has all sorts of other wires connected to it (injection pump, etc) Looks like it would be quite the project to replace that one.

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Originally Posted by Broncoduecer View Post
You'll be in the neighborhood so I would do the alternator as well. You can do the p gasket without disturbing the water pump. The whole bracket that mounts the alternator and that houses the water pump comes off. Minimum 8 awg on the new wire.
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  #33  
Old September 13th, 2015, 03:22 PM
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I ran my clockwise and then around the back of the engine to keep it away from the turbo. I made a whole new harness for my install so it was easy in my case. 8 awg gives you 6 feet to work with.
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  #34  
Old September 13th, 2015, 03:34 PM
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Wire Resistance and Voltage Drop Calculator
Nice easy calculator site
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  #35  
Old September 13th, 2015, 04:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manimal View Post
My P-gasket is leaking so I was going to replace it today. I replaced the water pump in 2012 so I should have just done the P as well while I was at it... but I didn't. Do I have to remove/replace the water pump gasket in order to get to the P? I do, don't I? I also read that you could/should replace the core plug but I don't have a spare one of those. Is the core plug also one of those, while-you're-at-it things that should be replaced regularly?
These 3 long bolds comming through the water pump cover, the bracket into the front of the engine should be fastened first to give the gaskets and sealents a chance to cover the areas in a flat overlay.







So I always replace all the gaskets.

Which core plug are you asking for?
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  #36  
Old September 13th, 2015, 09:29 PM
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I just did mine a couple nights this week (p gasket, not alternator). Used Yamabond 4, as recommended by someone somewhere--worked great.

And used this video as one of my guides to the project--was pretty helpful.

Whole project would've gone off without a hitch had I more carefully worked my way around the water pump tightening bolts--I think I figured "a measly 18 ft lbs--how careful do I need to be?"

Answer: More careful than I was. I cracked the water pump housing down by the bottom bolt (I don't recall for sure, but suspect I torqued it before even getting everything else nice and snug--duh), and was greeted at project culmination by a steady drip of coolant . . . just put on a new water pump two nights ago and all's well now.
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  #37  
Old September 13th, 2015, 11:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander View Post
replaced mine today. It's a 2 beer job. took 2 hours to get the casing off from start.

2 beers in 2 hours? Man I with I had that discipline (burp).
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  #38  
Old September 14th, 2015, 10:44 AM
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So as not to derail the topic I started a new thread with some wiring upgrade questions related to my alternator install. Link here.

I didn't get too much accomplished yesterday. I drank some antifreeze while trying to siphon out coolant, then I had a beer, then I called it a day. My radiator has a lot of deposits so I decided instead to go pick up some radiator flush and a fluid pump. $8 well spent on the pump. I'm going to run two flushes this week and will replace the P-gasket next weekend when I have cleaned out the radiator properly.

I'm still baffled that there isn't a better solution out there for draining coolant on a Defender. The pump takes out about 60-70% and the rest still sprays all over the place because I have a big steering protection plate in the way. I may end up fabricating a plastic funnel to fit in there so it doesn't get all over the place every time I drain.
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  #39  
Old September 14th, 2015, 11:26 AM
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Hook the pump to the small line that goes from the reservoir to the lower rad hose. You can get everything out this way other than what is stuck in the engine. And, yes, it is crazy that the rad does not have a drain valve.
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  #40  
Old September 14th, 2015, 11:32 AM
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Great idea!

Will there always be some stuck in the engine? Does the engine drain when using the lower rad hose to drain?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
Hook the pump to the small line that goes from the reservoir to the lower rad hose. You can get everything out this way other than what is stuck in the engine. And, yes, it is crazy that the rad does not have a drain valve.
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