300TDI leak T-Seals or Rear Main? - Defender Source
Defender Source  

Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions


Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old October 15th, 2014, 07:30 AM
red64chevelle
Status: Offline
Daniel Smith
86 110 300TDI,16 Disco Sport
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: East Greenwich, RI
Posts: 428
Registry
300TDI leak T-Seals or Rear Main?

So, I have just about everything sorted out. I have a pretty good leak of engine oil (about a drop a minute) from the flywheel housing. I rebuilt the engine prior to installation, so I might have screwed something up. Is there a way to determine if the "T-seals" or the rear main seal is the problem?

Otherwise, I will probably attack the T-seals first. From what I have read, I can replace them by removing the pan. The Rear Main will require me to drop the tranny.

Thanks in advance.
__________________
75% of all Land Rovers ever made are still on the road...
the other 25% at least made it home.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2  
Old October 15th, 2014, 07:59 AM
o2batsea's Avatar
o2batsea
Status: Offline
Bill Adams
66 109 sw 94 lwb
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: kensington md
Posts: 6,506
Registry
There are some real garbage seals out there. Even those masquerading as "genuine". My money is on the rear main. You want the Dowty Teflon one. Those too are counterfeited ( who knows why )
__________________
Bill Adams

1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

All my troubles are Rover
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old October 15th, 2014, 08:01 AM
JFD's Avatar
JFD
Status: Offline
Julien Dalbin
05 Tdi 90
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Dominican Republic
Posts: 1,888
In case you change the rear main seal, there is an upgraded version of that seal, it's twice the cost but it is supposed to be stronger. It's available at Turner Engineering.

Cheers
__________________
" Eventually everything connects - people, ideas, objects. The quality of the connections is the key to quality per se. "
- Charles Eames
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #4  
Old October 15th, 2014, 08:20 AM
red64chevelle
Status: Offline
Daniel Smith
86 110 300TDI,16 Disco Sport
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: East Greenwich, RI
Posts: 428
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
There are some real garbage seals out there. Even those masquerading as "genuine". My money is on the rear main. You want the Dowty Teflon one. Those too are counterfeited ( who knows why )
Do you know where to get a real one?
__________________
75% of all Land Rovers ever made are still on the road...
the other 25% at least made it home.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old October 15th, 2014, 08:30 AM
o2batsea's Avatar
o2batsea
Status: Offline
Bill Adams
66 109 sw 94 lwb
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: kensington md
Posts: 6,506
Registry
Depends on who you like.
Google "LUF 100430" and pick your winner. For example:
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-LUF100430
__________________
Bill Adams

1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

All my troubles are Rover
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old October 15th, 2014, 10:05 AM
JFD's Avatar
JFD
Status: Offline
Julien Dalbin
05 Tdi 90
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Dominican Republic
Posts: 1,888
Quote:
Originally Posted by red64chevelle View Post
Do you know where to get a real one?
http://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/acatalog/300Tdi.html
__________________
" Eventually everything connects - people, ideas, objects. The quality of the connections is the key to quality per se. "
- Charles Eames
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old October 15th, 2014, 10:11 AM
red64chevelle
Status: Offline
Daniel Smith
86 110 300TDI,16 Disco Sport
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: East Greenwich, RI
Posts: 428
Registry
I saw that one. The description didn't say anything about it being teflon. The Turner seal does seem to be what everyone recommends.

Any ideas about isolating whether the leak is from the t-seals or the rear main seal?
__________________
75% of all Land Rovers ever made are still on the road...
the other 25% at least made it home.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old October 16th, 2014, 09:12 AM
JFD's Avatar
JFD
Status: Offline
Julien Dalbin
05 Tdi 90
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Dominican Republic
Posts: 1,888
Quote:
Originally Posted by red64chevelle View Post
I saw that one. The description didn't say anything about it being teflon. The Turner seal does seem to be what everyone recommends.

Any ideas about isolating whether the leak is from the t-seals or the rear main seal?
My bet is rear seal also. You can drop the trans or take out the engine, that would depend on you.
__________________
" Eventually everything connects - people, ideas, objects. The quality of the connections is the key to quality per se. "
- Charles Eames
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old October 16th, 2014, 09:28 AM
Z.G's Avatar
Z.G
Status: Offline
Zack
300Tdi 95 D1
Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Burlington, VT
Posts: 4,685
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by red64chevelle View Post
So, I have just about everything sorted out. I have a pretty good leak of engine oil (about a drop a minute) from the flywheel housing. I rebuilt the engine prior to installation, so I might have screwed something up. Is there a way to determine if the "T-seals" or the rear main seal is the problem?

Otherwise, I will probably attack the T-seals first. From what I have read, I can replace them by removing the pan. The Rear Main will require me to drop the tranny.

Thanks in advance.
Did you do the rear main when you did the rebuild? Did you touch the seal with your fingers?
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old October 16th, 2014, 09:51 AM
JFD's Avatar
JFD
Status: Offline
Julien Dalbin
05 Tdi 90
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Dominican Republic
Posts: 1,888
Quote:
Originally Posted by Z.G View Post
Did you touch the seal with your fingers?
Damned Ebola !
__________________
" Eventually everything connects - people, ideas, objects. The quality of the connections is the key to quality per se. "
- Charles Eames
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old October 16th, 2014, 10:33 AM
red64chevelle
Status: Offline
Daniel Smith
86 110 300TDI,16 Disco Sport
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: East Greenwich, RI
Posts: 428
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Z.G View Post
Did you do the rear main when you did the rebuild? Did you touch the seal with your fingers?
I didn't personally replace the rear main seal. I couldn't physically get to it while the engine was on the engine stand. I had a nice guy in CT pick up my 110 and drop it back off with the engine/tranny in-place and the 2.5 Petrol on a pallet. I forgot to give him the rear main seal that came with the gasket kit, but he said he picked one up and installed it.

I figure I will be buying one from Turner and dropping the tranny to replace it. The whole project will have to wait for a bit while I play Navy for a bit.

Any thoughts on the gasket that goes between the rear main and the block? Some say permatex it, some say gasket. Any experience either way?
__________________
75% of all Land Rovers ever made are still on the road...
the other 25% at least made it home.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old October 16th, 2014, 11:35 AM
Ren Ching's Avatar
Ren Ching
Status: Offline
Skinny Pete
'84 90 "Yamelo"/'88 RRC "Chewbacca"
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Downtown
Posts: 4,696
Registry
did you rebuild the engine without removing the crankshaft? I'm pretty sure the rear main seal bolts into the rear main bearing housing as well as the block.

you don't need to pull the oil pan to do the rear main seal.

If it's leaking that much and the t-seals were never disturbed then my money is on the seal itself.



Quote:
Originally Posted by red64chevelle View Post
So, I have just about everything sorted out. I have a pretty good leak of engine oil (about a drop a minute) from the flywheel housing. I rebuilt the engine prior to installation, so I might have screwed something up. Is there a way to determine if the "T-seals" or the rear main seal is the problem?

Otherwise, I will probably attack the T-seals first. From what I have read, I can replace them by removing the pan. The Rear Main will require me to drop the tranny.

Thanks in advance.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old October 16th, 2014, 04:02 PM
Arlo's Avatar
Arlo
Status: Offline
Kurt Ohlendorf
1997/130CC
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Bremen, Germany
Posts: 523
Registry
Daniel,

I did the replacement this summer.

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...0&postcount=46

But I didn't sealed the gap between block and flywheel housing!
It's leaking drop by drop.
Have to do the whole procedure one more time!

Needed parts:







Be sure the lip of the gasket shows towards the engine block!



Use bolts to center the gasket behind the seal.



Never touch the lip of the seal!
You just have one try to fit the seal onto the crankshaft with the inner helper installed. Don't remove it!
Don't lubricate it!
When done the inner plastic for will be ejected by the crankshaft. The lip then sits correct to it.

The T seals are available in rubber or kork.



Good luck

Kurt
__________________
Land Rover werden vererbt, Sankeys sowieso! I told the old guy that weeks ago. I think his cheese is sliding off the cracker.......
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old October 16th, 2014, 06:45 PM
red64chevelle
Status: Offline
Daniel Smith
86 110 300TDI,16 Disco Sport
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: East Greenwich, RI
Posts: 428
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching View Post
did you rebuild the engine without removing the crankshaft? I'm pretty sure the rear main seal bolts into the rear main bearing housing as well as the block.

you don't need to pull the oil pan to do the rear main seal.

If it's leaking that much and the t-seals were never disturbed then my money is on the seal itself.
Yes, I completely rebuilt it. Crank out, all bearings, rings, honed cylinders. I replaced the t-seal with the one that came with the gasket kit. I think it was a cork one. I am thinking the next one will be the rubber type.
__________________
75% of all Land Rovers ever made are still on the road...
the other 25% at least made it home.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old October 16th, 2014, 06:55 PM
red64chevelle
Status: Offline
Daniel Smith
86 110 300TDI,16 Disco Sport
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: East Greenwich, RI
Posts: 428
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arlo View Post
Daniel,

I did the replacement this summer.

The T seals are available in rubber or kork.



Good luck

Kurt
Kurt,

Thanks for all of your information. So, you would recommend the rubber t-seals? Did you put any RTV on them, or just install them dry?

Thanks again.
__________________
75% of all Land Rovers ever made are still on the road...
the other 25% at least made it home.
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old October 17th, 2014, 05:04 PM
Arlo's Avatar
Arlo
Status: Offline
Kurt Ohlendorf
1997/130CC
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Bremen, Germany
Posts: 523
Registry
If oil is comming out of the drain hole, I would like to tip on the main oil seal.

The T seals need to get lubricated and special formed helper things screwed to the block so they will fit the narrow gap. The outstanding end of the seal at the bottom has to be cut with a surplus of 0,8mm to the surface of the block.
__________________
Land Rover werden vererbt, Sankeys sowieso! I told the old guy that weeks ago. I think his cheese is sliding off the cracker.......
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old December 4th, 2017, 06:06 PM
NC_MULE
Status: Offline
Pat
1991 Range Rover Classic w/300tdi
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Boone NC
Posts: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by Z.G View Post
Did you do the rear main when you did the rebuild? Did you touch the seal with your fingers?
Ok I admit I touched it. The old main seal felt (which was leaking) like hard plastic not like any other oil seal I've handled. So I touched the new one and it's kinda hard and not like any seal I've handled before.

Soooo....do I really need to toss this new seal since I touched it?

The one I touched was a allmakes 4x4 made in India. I'm going to look up the Turner one but I hate to put the project on hold for a UK shipment.

Thanks pb
Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions

Tags
300tdi, seals, tdi

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Cross Seals by rear main 97-D90-736 Defender Technical Discussions 64 June 15th, 2016 05:17 PM
TD5 bulkhead vent seals vs. NAS seals Tyler Wirken Defender Technical Discussions 11 March 14th, 2011 10:22 PM
300tdi oil leak, main journal? Shane@EVS Defender Technical Discussions 9 May 8th, 2007 06:58 AM
Replacing front and rear main seals TND90 Defender Technical Discussions 0 January 24th, 2007 01:10 AM
Oil Leak, is it the oil pan or rear main seal??? Grover Defender Technical Discussions 4 January 22nd, 2006 09:24 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:47 PM.


Copyright