300Tdi intermittent start issue - starter or main chassis ground? - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old October 15th, 2011, 12:19 PM
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The cables going to the starters in my boat are approx 1 3/8 in diameter, frigging huge ! Those big 8.2 liter 4 stroke detroits spin a half turn and they are running. Love the sound big diesels make in a boat. 300 rpm off of wot all you hear is turbo scream stuffing air into an 8 liter engine-more like a jet engine sound than a diesel.
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  #22  
Old October 15th, 2011, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by kjva View Post
...with the age of the Rovers around the cables may be way off the original specs and that may be have been for a petrol.
I doubt original specs are designed to get less than .5v drop. I can't recall ever seeing a starter supply for a "car" large enough. Same goes for OE winch cables I've seen, though I think they are getting better.
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  #23  
Old October 15th, 2011, 11:58 PM
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My money is on the solenoid. You can take the starter apart and clean up and resolder all connections. Since it works "sometimes", the solenoid is not dead.
If ground wire was bad, glow plugs would have a hard time too (well.. Maybe they do! ).
Had to remember to park on a slope for a while to gear start my truck if the starter did not kick in. One day, I was on a flat parking lot and I had to push, jump in the cab and start it (engine was still warm -and- I have a gas engine not a diesel). That was the drop that made it. Anyway, after opening/cleaning it, not a problem in the past 4 years.

Check the ground anyway since that's an easy one (harbor freight has multimeters for $5 -or- free with coupon + purchase; if you're serious about maintaining your car yourself, you've got to get one and learn how to use it).
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  #24  
Old November 29th, 2013, 03:15 PM
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I'm bringing this thread back from the dead...

Jason, did your starter problem go away after a new ground cable? I have been fighting this problem for 2 years now off and on. New wiring, new connectors, new relay, new starter....

I am at wits end. My latest guess was that the control wiring for the solenoid was faulty leading to crummy voltage that wasn't enough to engage the plunger. I can hear the solenoid click, but no starter.
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  #25  
Old November 30th, 2013, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by navydevildoc View Post
I'm bringing this thread back from the dead...

Jason, did your starter problem go away after a new ground cable? I have been fighting this problem for 2 years now off and on. New wiring, new connectors, new relay, new starter....

I am at wits end. My latest guess was that the control wiring for the solenoid was faulty leading to crummy voltage that wasn't enough to engage the plunger. I can hear the solenoid click, but no starter.
99% sure mine was the ignition switch actually...while I did replace the main chassis ground (with one from Napa) after I replaced the switch the problem never came back again.
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  #26  
Old November 30th, 2013, 07:22 PM
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99% sure mine was the ignition switch actually...while I did replace the main chassis ground (with one from Napa) after I replaced the switch the problem never came back again.
Genius. I know someone else that has been plagued by this on a V8. Of course it has to be the most obvious thing! The bloody ignition switch. And for double bonus points they are dirt cheap.
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  #27  
Old December 2nd, 2013, 09:40 PM
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Check the mount screws on the solenoid. I had the same problem on a two year old starter. Checked the 7mm screws and one had fallen out and the other two were real loose. There's a lot of vibration with diesel as stated in other posts. It's worth a grab to see if it's that simple. I used locktite. my problem was solved. Good Luck !!
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  #28  
Old February 21st, 2015, 08:48 PM
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Well, I am biting the bullet and replacing the wiring from the starter relay to the solenoid tonight and tomorrow. I plan on running a whole new supply wire as well from my aux fusebox under the seat.

Anyone want to take a guess on how much amperage the solenoid uses? Not the starter motor itself, but the solenoid.
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  #29  
Old February 21st, 2015, 09:47 PM
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Doesn't the solenoid power go through a set of relay contacts & usually on the relay it will list the Amps for the contacts?
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  #30  
Old February 21st, 2015, 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Viton View Post
Doesn't the solenoid power go through a set of relay contacts & usually on the relay it will list the Amps for the contacts?
Well, the relay has been swapped by a previous owner. It's now a bosch relay that's rated for 50 amps. No idea if that's really needed or not.
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  #31  
Old February 21st, 2015, 10:04 PM
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20 Amp relays are the most common though I doubt the solenoid would pull 10 Amps while in the initial "pull".

I'd wire it with 12 ga. wire & then bump the fuse up if it blows.
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