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  #1  
Old April 9th, 2011, 08:21 PM
trybul
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Craig Hobbs
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300tdi install

hey ,just looking for some advice.
I finally have the chance to upgrade my d90 to a new motor. I currently have a LHD 2.5na with an lt77 in it.
I have an chance to get a 300tdi and r380 tranny to put into it. I was just woundering what all exactly will i have to change out. It will come with the engine mounts, intercooler and rad, manafold downpipe and that is about it i think...
Just want to make sure that i am not going to have to end up spending another couple grand on "crap i need that " parts once i get into it..
thanks
c
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  #2  
Old April 9th, 2011, 10:54 PM
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Mike
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You will also need to get the R380 tunnel cover. in the cab. You may have to do something with the engine harness but not too familiar with that. If you have a Defender exhaust manifold you should be fine but a Discovery one doesn't work on a LHD, I think.
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Old April 10th, 2011, 07:47 AM
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Doug Crowther
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engine harness will need to be changed for the different type of temp sensor plug and depending on which alternator you have you will most likely need to run a charge wire to the starter since your truck most likely only has a 45amp wiring harness and if you have a 100 amp alternator on the 300. The small gauge wire in the 2.5 harness can't handle that much juice.
Underneath you will need the r380 trans crossmember and you will need to change the front frame mounts which is easily done. there are kits on ebay uk with templates and brackets for each side.

All easily done if you have access to a mig and some basic wiring skills.
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  #4  
Old April 10th, 2011, 08:11 AM
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Does it require a different seat box?
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  #5  
Old April 10th, 2011, 11:04 AM
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No, seatbox is the same.

As said above, the wiring loom is different (300's, at the bulkhead end, used more moulded thin pin type connectors, whereas pre-300's used the rubber moulded "bullet" type), however, with a little cable, soldering iron and heat shrink, you can create a frankenstein loom with the 300 bits at the engine end, and your existing loom at the bulkhead end, in short, simply cut them both in the middle and join old to new looms.

You need an R380 crossmember for the gearbox to sit on.

If you fling me your email, i've got pictures and dimensions for where the engine mounts sit, so that should help you.

If you don't want to change the gearbox, you can fit the 300 onto an LT77... that way you don't need to change the floor plates/transmission tunnel/propshafts. But the choice is yours... i prefer the R380.

Here's how to do the conversion
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  #6  
Old April 14th, 2011, 01:27 PM
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Craig Hobbs
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This is great information, and thanks for the input.
I am surprised that i will have to change the crossmember under the trany..
Is this something that has to be done on the civilian defenders, and not the MOD ones?
The reason i ask, was we installed an r380 with a TDI 200 last summer into a friends vehicle and we did not have to change out the cross member.. He used to have a 2.5na with a LT77 in there...
c
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  #7  
Old April 14th, 2011, 03:50 PM
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Jamie Austin
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Unless he unbolted the LT77 mounts and fitted them to the R380

"factory" mounting for the R380 is on the crossmember. i've got one here in a chassis easy to get to if you want some pictures/dims.

That said... the Td5's now have welded on chassis mounts, but you can (with a slight jiggling) use the Tdi crossmember... that's what i'm about to do.
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Old April 14th, 2011, 09:30 PM
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I put a 300 and R380 into my Ex-Mod 110 three years ago. Fairly easy swap. The only difference from your truck is mine had the short bell housing R380 in it instead of the LT77. The original gearbox was mounted to the chassis, not the cross-member like others have mentioned. I mounted the new gearbox the same way. As for hooking everything up, in no particular order, I was able to use the 2.5NA accelerator cable. I replaced the spade connector on the temp sender with something that fit the 300 sender and the gauge seems to work fine. I just used the same glow-plug wire that was used for the 2.5NA. You don't get the glow plug timer that a 300 is supposed to have but that is no problem. Above 0c no glow required. Below, just hold the key for 8 - 10 seconds then start. Oil pressure light plugged right on. I had to move the clutch slave cyl over to the other side for the new gearbox. Cut off the old engine mounts and fab new ones for the 300. I bought new 300 heater hoses. Oh, and a big one. Unless you are going to install power steering, you will need to deal with the power steering pump on the 300TDI. I was going to just run a closed loop system with hoses from the reservoir to the pump and back again but the fittings from the pump fouled on the the manual steering box in my truck. What we ended up doing is pulling the guts out of the pump, installing a bearing and now basically use the pump as a idler pulley. Works fine. One day I will get hold of a power steering box and get away from the "Armstrong" power system in there now.

That's all I'm remembering at the moment. If I think of anything else, I chime back in.

Brett
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  #9  
Old April 15th, 2011, 11:22 AM
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Doug Crowther
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moose View Post
I put a 300 and R380 into my Ex-Mod 110 three years ago. Fairly easy swap. The only difference from your truck is mine had the short bell housing R380 in it instead of the LT77. The original gearbox was mounted to the chassis, not the cross-member like others have mentioned. I mounted the new gearbox the same way. As for hooking everything up, in no particular order, I was able to use the 2.5NA accelerator cable. I replaced the spade connector on the temp sender with something that fit the 300 sender and the gauge seems to work fine. I just used the same glow-plug wire that was used for the 2.5NA. You don't get the glow plug timer that a 300 is supposed to have but that is no problem. Above 0c no glow required. Below, just hold the key for 8 - 10 seconds then start. Oil pressure light plugged right on. I had to move the clutch slave cyl over to the other side for the new gearbox. Cut off the old engine mounts and fab new ones for the 300. I bought new 300 heater hoses. Oh, and a big one. Unless you are going to install power steering, you will need to deal with the power steering pump on the 300TDI. I was going to just run a closed loop system with hoses from the reservoir to the pump and back again but the fittings from the pump fouled on the the manual steering box in my truck. What we ended up doing is pulling the guts out of the pump, installing a bearing and now basically use the pump as a idler pulley. Works fine. One day I will get hold of a power steering box and get away from the "Armstrong" power system in there now.

That's all I'm remembering at the moment. If I think of anything else, I chime back in.

Brett
wouldn't it have been faster and easier to upgrade to power steering ???
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  #10  
Old April 15th, 2011, 08:26 PM
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Well, you would have thought so. Just didn't have the bits needed when the day came to do the swap.

Brett
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  #11  
Old April 18th, 2011, 01:56 PM
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Craig Hobbs
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Jim,
that would be great if you could snap a few for me..
The deal is getting really close... and all this information is awesome guys. I hope to keep the down time to a minimal...
I have the power steering box already, and a pump actuall.. spent alot of time hunting for one for my 2.5 na...but never got around to installing it. So that should not be an issue.. (fingers crossed)
c
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