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  #21  
Old February 15th, 2015, 09:41 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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Increasing fueling on the injection pump will increase the temps. I'd think you'd want to turn it down a tad if anything. Make sure timing and valves clearances are adjusted to perfection. Upgrade to full width radiator and intercooler if you haven't already. I also had my manifold and exhaust ceramic coated but no idea what effect that has because I neglected to take measurements before that upgrade. I thought 1280 was the danger zone? I would give yourself plenty of safety buffer.
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  #22  
Old February 15th, 2015, 09:42 PM
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John B.
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Don't put muff in front of an intercooler. Check boost and see where you go from there

I keep egts below 1300 and can do 90.
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  #23  
Old February 15th, 2015, 09:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manimal View Post
Increasing fueling on the injection pump will increase the temps. I'd think you'd want to turn it down a tad if anything. Make sure timing and valves clearances are adjusted to perfection. Upgrade to full width radiator and intercooler if you haven't already. I also had my manifold and exhaust ceramic coated but no idea what effect that has because I neglected to take measurements before that upgrade. I thought 1280 was the danger zone? I would give yourself plenty of safety buffer.
Correct w/regard to EGT temps after adding fuel, but now that she's gonna ditch the muff, maybe there's some room for tuning.

Also, thanks for reminding me to have my valve clearances adjusted. I'm overdue for that procedure.
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  #24  
Old February 16th, 2015, 12:48 AM
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ryan
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Just in case this info is valuable:
October 2014 we had our 300tdi performance tuned and had an EGT guage installed. Everything else was stock. We ran around the country this Fall/Winter covering about 10K highway miles plus around 5K city and off-road. Our 110 is our DD and our only rig at the moment so we use it a ton. In town and off road EGT was never an issue and the truck ran well with lots of power and little smoke. On the highway the EGT ran between 1100-1200 most of the time and we constantly feathered off the pedal to keep it under 1300 while cruising 65mph. On occasion when we were stupid or where slowing down further would cause a more dangerous situation we saw the gauge go higher than 1400.
Last week with no warning we blew an apparently long failing head gasket, cracked a piston, and had #1 injector not functioning entirely. Fluids changed regularly, tappet adj done every 10k, very conservatively driven.
The thread we started details what the whole situation looked like.
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  #25  
Old February 16th, 2015, 02:20 AM
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My 300Tdi is mounted in a D90 with an autobox and a 1.2 TC.
I mostly run at higher elevations, 4000 ft + in a cold climate.
I turned my fuel screw down 1/8 turn 12 years ago. This engine has 145K miles on it and was purchased new.

On a calm day, level ground, it runs 7 to 8 hundred degrees, cruising at 65mph. On a grade it'll run about 1100F and I'll pull it down into 3rd to lock the torque converter and pull about 47mph. I NEVER let it get over 1200F. I also run hotter T-stats to aid in warming the engine sooner and to keep the temp's above 190F. 198F in the summer & a 203F in the winter. I've been running these for 2 years now.

Learning how to use the throttle (backing off) to lower the EGT's and keeping the boost high (which keeps the air flow high, cooling the EGT's) is essential to keeping these little diesels alive while not blowing a bunch of smoke. If you're blowing black smoke, you're killing your engine!
There is a "sweet spot" to do this on every grade & weather condition (bucking a strong headwind can be the same a climbing an extended grade) which requires constant attention to the boost & EGT gauges.
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  #26  
Old February 16th, 2015, 04:55 AM
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Jim Cheney
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I've never let mine run hotter than 900, but I'd clarify that my EGT probe is inserted through the EGR block-off. I'm not sure where others might be taking the reading, but it matters.
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  #27  
Old February 16th, 2015, 04:12 PM
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You should be able to climb that grade going at least 55 mph in 4th gear. Although I usually skip that part of I-70 (I usually go west up Clear Creek Canyon), I can maintain 55-60 mph on the grade between Georgetown and Silver Plume.


This is with a 200tdi soft top 110, running a 1.4 transfer case. Your truck is heavier but I don't think that accounts for all of that difference.


I suspect you may have a boost leak-- I'd get the boost gauge installed and for sure remove the rad muff. Save that for below zero temps.


1400 is too high for your EGT. Mine maxes at about 1200 to 1250.
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  #28  
Old February 16th, 2015, 04:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meatblanket View Post
You should be able to climb that grade going at least 55 mph in 4th gear. Although I usually skip that part of I-70 (I usually go west up Clear Creek Canyon), I can maintain 55-60 mph on the grade between Georgetown and Silver Plume.

This is with a 200tdi soft top 110, running a 1.4 transfer case. Your truck is heavier but I don't think that accounts for all of that difference.

I suspect you may have a boost leak-- I'd get the boost gauge installed and for sure remove the rad muff. Save that for below zero temps.

1400 is too high for your EGT. Mine maxes at about 1200 to 1250.
I kind of wondered if I would be better heading up the canyon instead of I-70. I think getting on at Heritage makes it hard to get any speed going to give her a fighting chance.

How do you do heading east- especially at the Eisenhower approach?

I'll save the rad muff for the frigid days around town.
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  #29  
Old February 16th, 2015, 04:53 PM
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Pretty similar, about 55 mph. It might get pulled down to 54 or so at the very top, measured by GPS. No hot rodding either, the pump settings haven't been messed with. Does not create visible smoke.


I think you should be able to do better than 45 mph. I recall you were having problems adjusting your pump timing, did that ever get resolved?
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  #30  
Old February 16th, 2015, 04:58 PM
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That is a rough climb especially if you are getting on at heritage road.
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  #31  
Old February 16th, 2015, 05:01 PM
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Not to mention adding 4 miles to the trip if you're coming from Boulder.
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  #32  
Old February 16th, 2015, 05:21 PM
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Craig Dickson
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That is a steep climb and coming the other way from Silverthorne to the Tunnel is worse. I don't have a deisel or 110 but to keep my speed up in the D90 I hope to make the stoplight turning onto I-70 at Silverthorne to keep up montenum and get to at least 60mphs in 4th gear before hitting the steep part. If a truck or RV blocks me I am stuck and sometimes have to shift into 3rd THe worst part is the last 500 yards before the tunnel. I have timed both ways and I prefer the canyon over I-70. Though I found it is 5 minutes faster to go to I-70. The problem with the canyon is that it can be maddening to get behind the slow drivers going to the Central City. Nicer views though.
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  #33  
Old February 16th, 2015, 08:25 PM
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On my 300tdi I have the egr blocked off and added the allisport full width rad and intercooler this past summer. It pulls pretty well up the hills with the new additions. I will also be putting on the Turner engineering performance head this spring, and looking to potentially do the VNT turbo. I'm running 33in. tires, are you on 35's with stock gearing? That could be a good reason as to why it is a little sluggish. Also, you should give John Putin's a ring he may have some ideas to help and is based just north of Denver.
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  #34  
Old February 16th, 2015, 08:36 PM
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Craig- was that your truck at CAC a few days ago? My son was ogling a red 90 in the parking lot there.
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  #35  
Old February 16th, 2015, 08:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by USLandy View Post
On my 300tdi I have the egr blocked off and added the allisport full width rad and intercooler this past summer. It pulls pretty well up the hills with the new additions. I will also be putting on the Turner engineering performance head this spring, and looking to potentially do the VNT turbo. I'm running 33in. tires, are you on 35's with stock gearing? That could be a good reason as to why it is a little sluggish. Also, you should give John Putin's a ring he may have some ideas to help and is based just north of Denver.
What are the expected performance gains w/the Turner head?
Where are you sourcing and how much?
Curious as to the $/hp return
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  #36  
Old February 16th, 2015, 09:00 PM
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So...I'm a little confused about 200/300tdi's and the claimed power/speeds.

I've attached a screen shot of a dyno video which shows the max power of a 200tdi engine around 35kW.

Another tuning site shows 34kW for a 200tdi:
http://www.graemecooper.com.au/three...mance_data.htm

Another site showing a 300tdi making 48/49kW.
http://www.triumphroverspares.com.au...&productid=147

Another showing a 300tdi making ~67hp.
http://s23.photobucket.com/user/EVO0...rease.jpg.html

Am I missing something from these dyno charts? What's causing these numbers to be so low?
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  #37  
Old February 16th, 2015, 09:55 PM
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Jason England
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
So...I'm a little confused about 200/300tdi's and the claimed power/speeds. I've attached a screen shot of a dyno video which shows the max power of a 200tdi engine around 35kW. Another tuning site shows 34kW for a 200tdi: http://www.graemecooper.com.au/three...mance_data.htm Another site showing a 300tdi making 48/49kW. http://www.triumphroverspares.com.au...&productid=147 Another showing a 300tdi making ~67hp. http://s23.photobucket.com/user/EVO0...rease.jpg.html Am I missing something from these dyno charts? What's causing these numbers to be so low?
Wheel BHP vs flywheel.
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  #38  
Old February 16th, 2015, 10:08 PM
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You should be seeing at least 70 kW at the wheels. The problems is most people's engines are down on power and accept it as normal. A stock truck should do 85 mph on the flat. People should test the trucks for that to see how good the engine is pulling.

The same goes for the older engines. People accept them when they are down on power and too many back them up that is is okay.
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