300TDi (Disco 1) hose/pulley deconfliction - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old July 29th, 2015, 09:14 PM
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Bill
1995 Discovery
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Location: Southern Pines, NC
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300TDi (Disco 1) hose/pulley deconfliction

(1995 D1 with a 300TDi)

200 miles into a 500 mile day, I pull into a rest area and I hear a metal-on-metal sound while pulling into a rest area . . . turns out the coolant hose support bracket (RN part RNN303--first place I found it; see orange arrow in pic below) is totally loose.

So I try to tighten it up; turning it clockwise seems only to make it looser, so I decide it must be reverse thread, and give counterclockwise a try, and then realize it's just stripped. I'm going to go out on a limb and say the aluminum housing (not the steel screw) stripped, although I haven't disassembled things yet.

So I do a Rube Goldberg setup (see below) to get hoses away from pulleys/protect them from the pulleys' aggression, and made it home OK.


I've already determined I'm just plain missing the clip for the water pump hose (RN part RNQ864), which is what should be on top of the bracket that's loose.

Which leads me to three questions:

1) What should I do with the stripped hole in the housing? re-tap it for the next bolt size up? Stick an insert in it and use the same size bolt? Place a thermite grenade on it and walk away? Bear in mind that I don't want to resort to shenanigans like pulling the radiator so I can stick a drill in there, nor do I want to remove the entire timing cover or anything like that. Something cheap, lazy, and effective would be perfect, but I don't want to screw anything up, and so am open to expensive, painful, and effective solutions, but only as a last resort.

1a) Can the water pump pulley (which I reckon I'm going to need to remove regardless of the answer to #1) be removed just by undoing the bolts that hold it to the flange?

2) Once I get the clip bracket tightened into its home, and the proper clip, how do I keep the upper radiator hose away from the water pump pulley? Should I just loosen the hose clamps at both ends and try to rotate it so its elbow is more elevated? Or is there another shield or clip that's meant to keep it out of harm's way?

Thanks in advance,
Bill
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  #2  
Old July 30th, 2015, 04:34 PM
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Gren Thomas
1985 90 300tdi auto
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Hi Bill,
quick and dirty fix would be to pack the hole with metal putty or similar and thread the bolt in oil the bolt 1st, when its the putty is hard remove bolt clean it and thread it back in with the bracket and it should work fine.

Or do it right and use a thread insert - the correct size, as changing size of bolt means the hole in the water pump will also need opening up as will any other replacement pumps in the future.
Helicoil can be done with rad in-situ - remove the shroud though.

yes the pulley comes off with the 3 bolts.

With the bracket in place the hose will clear the bracket, although there is a corner facing the hose - I've rounded the edge facing the hose on mine for extra clearance.
Make sure the hose ends are all the way home, on genuine hoses there is a notch in the hose that aligns with a tab in the alloy pipes to ensure they are in the correct positions.

regards
Gren
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  #3  
Old July 30th, 2015, 10:10 PM
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Bill
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Thanks much, Gren.

Would it also be an option to drill through the back of the hole (making the blind hole "see"), and then use a longer bolt with a nut on the end of it? Seems like there's room on the back side for this solution, and it might be more tolerant of accidental torquing than a putty solution.

If using a helicoil or putty, how do I keep that solution from permanently affixing the front and back aluminum castings the bolt is going through? i.e., is there a way to ensure that the helical or putty is only in the back half of the casting, since (I assume) the hole in the front casting was not threaded originally?

Since the pulley nibbled away at my upper radiator hose, I'll order a new genuine one and try to set it up for maximum pulley clearance.

Thanks again!

-bill
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  #4  
Old August 2nd, 2015, 09:03 PM
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Bill
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Just to follow up with the solution I settled on.

After trying longer bolts (which simply stripped out the remaining 1.5 threads in the housing), I decided to drill through and put a nut on the back.

Then I was at Home Depot and saw the taps, and my mind started working. And I decided to drill through the back and tap the new part of the hole. Which is what I did, and it seems to have worked very well.

To avoid pulling the radiator and stuff, I bought a 90-degree drill adapter thingmo (~$15) and a box of 1/4" octagonal (hexagonal, actually, come to think of it) drive bits ($35ish--ouch), which was an amazing setup. Then I used a small wrench to get the M8 x 1.25 tap through without wasting all the space a proper tap holder would've used, and then I put a 40mm or so bolt in there (it protrudes about two threads out the back) with the bracket in place. I think this will last a long time, and if it doesn't, I've lost nothing--I can stick an even longer bolt in there and put a nut on it.

The tools I used that I think made the job a lot easier than it would've been otherwise:



Thanks again for the help.
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  #5  
Old August 2nd, 2015, 09:24 PM
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Jason Herring
94 D90 ST #1253
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To keep that hose away from the pulley I actually shortened the hose a little bit on one end so it's farther away when clamped back on. It's been working like that for 5 years, so that was pretty cheap, lazy and easy.
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  #6  
Old August 3rd, 2015, 06:10 AM
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Gren Thomas
1985 90 300tdi auto
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Posts: 413
Glad you got it sorted ..
I never worry about spending on tools as they will pay for themselves with future LR repairs

regards all
Gren
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