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300tdi - defender vs. disco engine mount difference?

11K views 45 replies 10 participants last post by  Broncoduecer 
#1 ·
Does anyone know if the engine mounts for a 300tdi are different from defender to the disco?
Not the rubber mounts, but the actual brackets that bolt to the engine.

I have the engine/trans on the cherry picker getting set to tack the mounts in, but I am an inch, ~25mm away from the frame on one side. Which side, well I guess depends which side you push it to! Seems to be passenger, but that might just be the way its sitting in there now.

I was supposed to get a defender kit, but everything was from a disco. And I've been fighting these little things constantly.

Maybe there isn't a difference. But something is off by an inch and I don't think it's my frame. The weld in mounts are right, so I don't think that's it either.

Thanks,
Pete
 
#38 ·
Robt. WTF are you using for mounts. The genuine 300tdi mounts are soft as ****. Some of the aftermarket mountings seen to be made of plastic in comparison. If the motor moved any more it would hit the fan shroud, the exhaust would hit all kinds of things and you'd need longer hoses (just kiddin about the hoses). Not trying to divert attention from your MB mount thoughts and Id agree that the 200 mounts are seriously odd and a pain in the arse but most of the Rover diesels I have messed with that seemed vibration prone had much more to do with the timing being off a bit.
A well tuned 300tdi in an RRC is smooth like butter. Im pretty sure that the Rover engineers didn't settle for tractor like qualities in the flagship.

I went wheeling with a Jeep Liberty this summer. It went pretty well other than the motor mounts breaking.

------ Follow up post added December 11th, 2013 05:24 AM ------

…………..even the old 2.5 na can be made to run fairly smoothly on is fairly solid mountings, but then again that is a tractor motor in a glorified piece of farm equipment and Id be disappointed to feel completely detached when running it.
 
#39 ·
…..and (off subject almost) leaving a EFI V8 fuel filter in line will kill the tdi lift pump (if its a rover motor)

That little filter was designed to have fuel pushed through it by a high(isn) pressure pump close by. Its not designed for diesel and doesn't flow diesel very well for very long. The Tdi lift pump will pull fuel through it but at a cost. Not making this up to sound smart, seen it multiple times. Has about the same effect as leaving the EFI pump in the tank and pulling the fuel through it. That works too, but will also kill the pump…….only seen that trick once.
I have had quite a few diesel installs (by others) that have needed some corrective work, or conversions that are about almost done but can't get over a few obstacles….like making it run right.
 
#41 ·
So I was looking at things more today and I wanted to find my center distance from rubber motor mount to rubber motor mount.

After taking some measurements, if you take the frame being 633mm - 40 mm left mount to frame - 57mm right mount to frame you get 536 mm. So that should be my distance center to center for the rubber mounts.
From an image I found on the site it says that the distance center to center for the motor mounts is 553mm.
553mm land rover number - 536 mm calculated = 17mm

Measured gap distance that frame mounts are from the frame = 17mm. So there is a correlation. But what the heck is causing that?! I keep feeling like I'm taking crazy pills. This should have just worked!

The frame mounts are correct as they provide the center of the hole 40mm from the frame.

I wonder if it's the rubber mounts? I bought ntc9416, and that shows to be the right p/n. I don't think its the engine mounting brackets on the engine. After looking as well you can only find one pair of part numbers disco and defender, but I think we already established that. Seems like the rubber mounts are the only thing left that can be wrong?!?

At least the beer is good in the garage. 2013 Celebration is a good one this year.

Pete
 

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#42 ·
I wish I had something constructive to offer, but that all just seems odd.

I just put new mounts in a Td5 (wow….thats all I have to say about that) and they lifted the motor almost 3/4 inch. Now the fan sits really close to the top of shroud. Factory install, not that old, all new genuine parts. Its far from an exacting science. I can understand your wanting to be rocket launch accurate.
Has the mounting kit manufacturer commented?
 
#43 ·
Is it possible the block was modified at some point? I would be filing some holes oval by now to make the thing sit as close as possible to the factory position and be done with it.
 
#44 ·
I hear ya man for sure! This has got me scratching my head.

I got the engine back out tonight and the frame is spot on in the motor mount area at the 633-635 mm. With the frame mounts mocked up they have holes at the desired 553 mm. With the engine on the ground marking the motor mount center stud distance off the concrete I am getting that 535-537 mm. So that's confirmed, there is something not right.

A friend suggested putting some plate behind the engine side brackets to get the slack taken up by pushing them away from the engine, but with those outriggers to the bellhousing, that's not going to work. The engine mount outriggers don't appear to be kinked or anything, so I'm taking it as the motor and the engine mounts are correct. Guess that leaves the rubber mounts. I did buy them at the same time, so maybe they're both off.

I did talk with Oliver @ Overland (thanks to Oliver!) and he sent a new set of mounts, which helped for sure. But didn't solve the problem, but the original set wasn't correct. Mocking up the new mounts to the frame I get that perfect 553 mm, so I'm highly confident that they are now correct.

I need like 18mm to make it fit, but I think I can only hole out another 12mm from the frame mounts before I wont be able to get a nut on it. So I am still coming up short.

Pretty bizarre. We'll see what a new set of rubber motor mounts do I guess.
 

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#45 ·
Tack the frame mounts on (heavy tack…..Id just be pretty confident and weld them) Make the engine mounts really loose so you can get the studs for same into there holes and then drop the motor on it and see what happens. You will need to slot the frame slightly just to let the studs go in .
 
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