300tdi crank and cam oil seals - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old May 24th, 2011, 03:27 PM
Shearpin
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Henry Stinson
'73 Series III SWB '84 110 tdi
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300tdi crank and cam oil seals

I'vee been collecting all the pieces for my timing belt maintenance. I have seals Err3356 and err4575 for the crank and camshaft. I know there are special tools to install these seals - has anyone come up with a suitable drift or seal install kit that can be found locally? I've used plumbing end caps for diff output seals - these appear to be an odd size and given the procedure to replace - I want to get them in right - first time...

Thanks again...
Henry
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  #2  
Old May 24th, 2011, 06:59 PM
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Danny
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If I remember correctly (Ren Ching might chime in here) all he and I used was a huge socket (or metal cylinder) that was about the right diameter and pushed it on... to get the old one out Ren Ching had a seal removal hook tool thing (technical term).
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Old May 24th, 2011, 07:21 PM
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sonoronos
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Warning: tool improvisation ahead. Use advice at your own risk!

Whenever I do these seals, I use an exacto knife and a screwdriver. The seals basically have a steel ring supporting the rubber seal, which then has a lip surrounded by a coil spring loop. The lip is what touches the shaft and is supposed to prevent fluids from leaking.

The exacto knife is used to carefully cut around the outside of the coil spring loop, which removes the lip from the shaft. Then use the screwdriver to carefully pry out the steel ring.
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Old May 24th, 2011, 10:15 PM
Shearpin
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Henry Stinson
'73 Series III SWB '84 110 tdi
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Thanks for the replies - replacing the seal has me the most concerned. I'll head out to home depot tomorrow and see if I can't find something to match the diameter. Is it possible to use a blunt drift and simply make your way around the outer diameter - tapping lightly?

Henry
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Old May 25th, 2011, 06:44 AM
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Mike
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Those seals are not a big deal to set in or get out. LR does have a tool to do all of the seals. I got one from the UK pretty cheap. If you don't want to wait or spend the bucks Hillsruble said it best with using a large socket to drift them in. I haven't used Sonoronos idea but it make sense to me.
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Old May 25th, 2011, 07:27 AM
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Skinny Pete
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The way I do most seals is to start them by hand so that they are just barely pressed into the bore. Then I gradually work my way around with a drift, or a small hammer, or a block of wood, only applying pressure along the outer edge where the steel is so as not to distort the face. If you get it crooked and keep going it will distort the inner lip. It takes some "experience" and a strong desire to succeed in doing things the wrong way, but it can be done "if you hold your mouth just right." See 130tdi's signature for the definition of experience.
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Old May 25th, 2011, 09:45 AM
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On dave's point about experience, I have changed a few of these before and only once has the result been negative. I changed a front cam sea, and used the "socket method" as I always had. it had always worked before, so I installed the seal and it looked like I had installed it properly. I started up the engine and then stopped it, and found a puddle of oil underneath the engine. Completely clueless, I looked everywhere fr the leak, and finally traced it to the seal I had just installed! Something happened during the install and a small fissure formed on the lip creating an oil leak. Pretty sad, right the solution was to purchase a new seal and install it again. Worked like a charm the second time.

The other piece of advice I can offer is to grease the crap out of the lip and edges of the seal so that it does not accidentally tear while being installed.
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