300tdi 100 Amp Alternators - Page 3 - Defender Source
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  #41  
Old August 20th, 2013, 02:24 PM
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Matthew Greenspan
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New Iskra part number is IA1018 $230 from Elpar.
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  #42  
Old August 20th, 2013, 06:02 PM
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Julien Dalbin
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They raised the price a bit but still worth it imo.
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  #43  
Old October 21st, 2013, 11:05 PM
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Henry Stinson
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I am getting ready to take the plunge on the Iskra alternator; my existing unit is starting to sound like a tin can full of nuts.

Is there any other parts I need to order for the conversion? Do you use the existing pulley or swap my existing one?

Searching the Elpar site I get the following:

http://elpar.com/Partdetails.aspx?Part=282-250&App=N

Is this the correct unit? It looks to me like the lower mounting bracket is on the wrong side?

Thanks again,
Henry
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  #44  
Old October 21st, 2013, 11:19 PM
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Still wondering if anyone has done a Premier Power Welder conversion. I'm wondering what kind of core I would need to send them for the rebuild.
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  #45  
Old October 22nd, 2013, 03:58 PM
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You'll have to swap pulleys, but it's drop in.
An impact wrench, air or electric, is very useful to loose the pulley nut.
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  #46  
Old October 22nd, 2013, 07:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shearpin View Post
I am getting ready to take the plunge on the Iskra alternator; my existing unit is starting to sound like a tin can full of nuts.

Is there any other parts I need to order for the conversion? Do you use the existing pulley or swap my existing one?

Searching the Elpar site I get the following:

http://elpar.com/Partdetails.aspx?Part=282-250&App=N

Is this the correct unit? It looks to me like the lower mounting bracket is on the wrong side?

Thanks again,
Henry
That's correct. The two brackets go to the top and the bottom on on the left from the front of the car. Looks like the 300Tdi one I'm looking at on the shelf here. It just needs spinning 180 in the picture so the tow brackets are at the top.

With regards to the heat shield. None of the Denso or Magnetic Marelli ones now have them. They are plastic at the back. I actually trashed a heat shield only yesterday. The Denso ones (made by MM) are rated at 100amp usually. You can actually butcher a V8 version and make a 120amp one if needed. I've got a V8 one in spares for emergency. You just need to hacksaw off the back brackets and make a new bracket to hold the back. The front supports hold it fine. Hope that helps.
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  #47  
Old October 22nd, 2013, 08:56 PM
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If anybody is interested, I have this part number 022303621A, the Iskra 100A 12V alternator(same linked above http://elpar.com/Partdetails.aspx?Part=282-250&App=N) when you search it on the Elpar site. I no longer have the 300tdi and would be willing to sell new in box for $230 shipped.
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  #48  
Old November 24th, 2013, 11:09 PM
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Been looking into this as well as I need an alternator for my 300tdi. The existing unit has the following on it.

54022459 12
11-94
A127I-100
YLE10113

When I looked up the 54022459 number I found a corresponding Case Holland unit. That number is 82014508 and is a 120amp unit. The back of the unit looks a little different but the frame looks the same.

Anyone here tried the Case unit or looked into this?
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  #49  
Old November 25th, 2013, 12:09 AM
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Bookmarked this page gem another alternator thread.
http://www.jackssmallengines.com/Alt...tors/ALU0020/A

Guessing some differences between V8 and Tdi
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  #50  
Old November 25th, 2013, 09:36 AM
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The two things I see about these that look to be different are, an 8 grove pulley vs 7 and lack of externsion bolts for the heat shield. I'm guessing you could pull the pulley of an old one and transfer it. The extension bolts I don't know, but when there's a will there's a way.
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  #51  
Old June 21st, 2015, 11:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
Am replacing the alternator on a 300 TDI in the shop and received the replacement today from Dingocroft in UK. It's manufactured by Denso IT - Part DAN 008 12V 100A 06M MSY63341-3210. There is no heat shield, but if the old shield and hardware from the factory unit won't fit am going to have a machine shop make the mounting studs and shield for this new unit. I think without a shield the heat from the exhaust will slowly fry the wires. It also worries me about not shielding the back where the diodes are typically located which are know for being heat sensitive.

Hope this helps.

RDavisinVA
Robert,

Just fried my alternator and am looking for a viable 100 amp for my 300 ti. Is this still a good choice?
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  #52  
Old June 21st, 2015, 11:43 PM
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Yes we have them, Mark.
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  #53  
Old June 22nd, 2015, 08:59 AM
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bump

------ Follow up post added June 22nd, 2015 09:08 AM ------

Thanks
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  #54  
Old June 22nd, 2015, 09:10 AM
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PM sent...
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  #55  
Old May 10th, 2016, 09:21 AM
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Thread resurrection. . .

So I've got the Madman EMS1 in my Disco now (amazing), and it's telling me all kinds of things. Lately it's telling me that with headlights and A/C on, I'm only running at about 12.8V. Runs at about 13.3V normally with nothing on but the stereo.

No obvious charging or starting issues at all--everything seems to be working just fine.

Time to buy a bigger alternator?
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  #56  
Old May 10th, 2016, 09:43 AM
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If with everything off, you only get 13.3, something is wrong. You should be over 14. 13.3 won't charge the battery properly. I would get the battery checked first as it could be bad and taking all of the power. If it is not that then look at the alternator and wiring.
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  #57  
Old May 10th, 2016, 09:47 AM
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You're alternator should put out 14.8 volts with no draw.
With a load it can go down lower.
I guess my real question is at what RPM ???
Even though the field can be energized and the regulator wide open to produce current, without the RPM, you won't meet demand...
Now if you are getting that 13.3 at highway speeds, then yes, it's new alternator time...
BUT
If that reading is at idle, well you need to see what it looks like at 45 MPH and higher speeds before you replace the alternator.
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  #58  
Old May 10th, 2016, 09:57 AM
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That's cruising on I-85 at about 75 mph, 3k-ish rpm's, 12.8V at night. And 13.3V is also at highway speeds with almost everything turned off . . .

I must confess I have no idea what alternator is in there; will look when I get home tonight and see what I can see. But maybe it doesn't matter, if it ain't working. . .

Any point in checking the battery, or is this almost certainly an alternator problem?

-Bill
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  #59  
Old May 10th, 2016, 10:01 AM
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Yes, check the battery first. Take it to any auto parts store. They will check for free. Step 2 is wiring , IMO.
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  #60  
Old May 10th, 2016, 10:06 AM
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OK, thanks much--the guy at Auto Zone (who is a fascinating guy-- major diesel geek, and multiple-time Baja 1000 competitor) wants to see the Disco anyway, so I'll go get the battery checked there.

And on the wiring, I'm looking for sufficient (10 ga?) wire size from alternator to starter, tight connections, continuity, and anything else?
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