300 TDI Tune Up - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old October 20th, 2009, 11:23 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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300 TDI Tune Up

My 300 tdi runs great overall but I have noticed something that bothers me that I'd like to get an opinion on. When I step on the gas pedal it is very responsive but when I drive slow at reduced speed (like a crawl) often it will run very uneven. With consistently low pressure on the pedal it will accelerate and choke, accelerate and choke, about a second at a time. What the hell that all about? That doesn't seem right. What's the deal? Do I need a timing belt change? Is it the fuel injection pump? I know that the previous owner messed with the fuel injection pump thinking that he would get more power. I'm suspecting I need to turn that down a few notches because I have a lot of black smoke (unburned fuel) when I drive. Has anyone else had this accelerate/choke issue when keeping the gas pedal still at low speed?
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  #2  
Old October 20th, 2009, 11:26 PM
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Carl...

Take it to Shipman.
I think you know him and he knows the TDis
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  #3  
Old October 20th, 2009, 11:30 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdb
Carl...

Take it to Shipman.
I think you know him and he knows the TDis
He's at the top of my list.

I was hoping I could solve this myself though before I take it to a shop.
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  #4  
Old October 20th, 2009, 11:49 PM
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Julien Dalbin
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Change your fuel filter, clean and drain your fuel decanter/water sedimentor, calibrate your valves clearance and send your fuel injectors to a diesel lab for cleaning and adjustment.
If you still have problems then think about fuel pump.
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  #5  
Old October 21st, 2009, 06:52 PM
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Re: cleaning injectors.
From what I understand this cannot be done with these types of injectors. I spoke with a real Bosch diesel lab and they said you can get new nozzles then have them re calibrated but cleaning is a not possible. For the cost ofthat you may as well get a new set IMO.

Honestly I doubt that is you problem, if you have one at all. Contrary to popular belief, tdi's don't like to be labored. My VW 1.9l tdi (1z) is the same way and will stumble when labored too much... so down shift and boot it.

could not hurt to check you timing also but if it is running great otherwise, don't worry.
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  #6  
Old October 21st, 2009, 09:01 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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Steve,

I hear ya. Of course I don't want to over-do it but since I have no record of any maintenance being done since the 300tdi install 5 years ago I want to go through the list once and make sure everything has been looked at. If I can trust the odometer it has been about 30K since anything was done (new engine with timing belt, etc).

The weird acceleration/choking behavior is not subtle at all. It is as if it doesn't like gentle and consistent pressure on the gas pedal. I have to step on the gas to get our of that behavior. If I don't it gets gradually worse, jerks you back and forth kind of like a student driver on his first day behind a steering wheel. It's bizarre.

I hear you on the injectors. I will probably get a new set eventually but at $150 a pop they're spendy. I want to clean out my Allard Intercooler as well, perhaps that will make things better. I saw you did that on a different thread. How did you go about it? Did you remove it from the engine bay?

Thanks!
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  #7  
Old October 21st, 2009, 09:14 PM
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My diesel shop here in Dallas can test (pressure/spray pattern/etc) and rebuild the 300tdi injectors but not the 200tdi injectors. They also rebuilt both injector pumps.
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  #8  
Old October 22nd, 2009, 11:16 AM
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Carl Jonsson
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I forgot to mention that it doesn't do this every time I drive. In fact, yesterday it was just fine.

It is possible that it could be a clutch related issue. I found something called "Clutch Judder" or "Fierce Engagement" in the manual: Clutch judder or fierce engagement, like slip, is most likely to occur when the vehicle is moving off from stationary. As the clutch pedal is released the vehicle will move rapidly or in a series of jerks, which cannot be controlled even by careful operation of the clutch by the driver.
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  #9  
Old October 22nd, 2009, 11:37 AM
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Clutch Judder is usually associated with the force transmitted by the power source- engine/flywheel through it's engagement system where the engagement system itself may have an out of tolerance condition- weak clutch plate/springs, worn throughout bearing etc. The condition is sometimes exacerbated by temprature. Other situation is with a high performance components that tend to be much stiffer anyway in operation, it's difficult to eliminate any trace of judder (particularly when cold) as the drive train takes up power.

If your components are all in decent shape, it may simply be a function of the parts coming up to temp before everything gets happy.

The driveline issues though should be easily diagnosed and isolated from what sounds like your truck loading up a bit at idel or low rpm. The diesels will almost extinguish themselves at low rpm if the fuel is not being metered (pump) and delivered (injector) just right. Certainly stumbling and noticiable engine shake at idel means it's time to go through the system. 50-60K on a timing belt is about it for safe measure.
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  #10  
Old October 23rd, 2009, 11:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D90user
Honestly I doubt that is you problem, if you have one at all. Contrary to popular belief, tdi's don't like to be labored.
Quoted for truth. You can overheat them in a hurry if you try to build on too low RPM's.
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  #11  
Old January 3rd, 2010, 03:29 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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Well, I replaced the injectors with new ones and that strange shudder at low speeds is completely gone. The old injectors are about 5 years and aside from oil and soot they look pretty good to me. Perhaps it would have been enough to remove them and soak them to get the same effect, hard to know. Either way, I still have black smoke at start up but seems less and definitely less (almost nothing) during drive. It could be my imagination but performance also seems up.
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  #12  
Old January 3rd, 2010, 04:05 PM
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Where did you get the injectors? George or aftermarket?
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  #13  
Old January 3rd, 2010, 11:07 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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I found a way better deal (sorry George). $78 a pop at Paddock in the UK. New & Genuine.

Link: http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/DEFE...%5F300TDI.html
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  #14  
Old June 8th, 2010, 10:55 AM
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Hey Carl I am thinking it is time to replace my injectors do you remember how much Paddock charged for shipping?

I tried to do an end around and buy the injectors directly from a Bosch shop here in Atlanta, they quoted me $242 EACH!
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Old June 8th, 2010, 11:08 AM
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I just did the injectors in my truck. Don't forget to change the copper rings at the bottom of the injectors. Also do the ones on the spill rail while you are it. I was amazed how much better the 110 was overall with new injectors.

Eric
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  #16  
Old June 8th, 2010, 12:17 PM
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Shipping shouldn't be too bad if you're only ordering the injectors. I ordered a bunch of other stuff as well so I can't tell you how much just the injectors would cost to ship. Definitely worth it to go through Paddocks though, I haven't found a better deal.

Quote:
Originally Posted by discotdi View Post
Hey Carl I am thinking it is time to replace my injectors do you remember how much Paddock charged for shipping?

I tried to do an end around and buy the injectors directly from a Bosch shop here in Atlanta, they quoted me $242 EACH!
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  #17  
Old June 8th, 2010, 12:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brn24whl View Post
I just did the injectors in my truck. Don't forget to change the copper rings at the bottom of the injectors. Also do the ones on the spill rail while you are it. I was amazed how much better the 110 was overall with new injectors.

Eric
Eric, did you see an improvement with gas mileage as well? I'm getting 20-24 with the 110 now, but know others can push high 20's or even 30.

So the copper rings aren't a standard part of the injectors and must be ordered separately?
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  #18  
Old April 4th, 2011, 11:57 AM
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Carl Jonsson
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Spare belts and hoses

What belts, hoses and other parts are the most commonly known to fail on a 300tdi? Which parts would you recommend keeping spares of in the truck when making long trips?
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  #19  
Old April 5th, 2011, 01:55 AM
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My list may be a little excessive... But this is what I take for the motor for really remote/international trips:
Lift pump
Fan belt
t-stat
Water pump & gasket
P-gasket
All cooling hoses
Coolant cap
Timing belt kit
Head gasket
Fuel filters (lots)
Brass coolant plug
Fan clutch
oil filter
Full change of engine oil
Air filter

Consider depending on age/space:
Alternator
Starter solenoid
Engine mounts
Pushrods
Head bolts
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  #20  
Old April 5th, 2011, 07:00 AM
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If your timing belt is at this point over 5 yrs old I'd think about changing it regardless of mileage. I've seen a few close calls lately.
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