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  #21  
Old March 14th, 2011, 07:03 AM
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Mine has a green/blue single wire lead to the sending unit. One truck with the aftermarket A/c did run a little hotter than the one with out the A/c but still not hitting the middle mark on the gauge. I have to run a cover on the radiator in the winter on one of the trucks to keep it from running too cold.
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  #22  
Old March 14th, 2011, 07:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manimal View Post
I replaced the thermostat and it was a no brainer with the exception of the coolant drain. I can't access my lower radiator bottom hose (to drain) because there is all sorts of of things in the way (skid place, etc). Is there another way to drain coolant without making a mess? I used the return supply line to the expansion tank... unfortunately it was messy.

One other question. There are supposed to be two electrical connectors to the water temperature switch connected to the bottom of the elbow housing. I do not have these and they are nowhere to be found. Just two empty sockets. What am I missing? Is this where the coolant temp gauge is supposed to connect?
I think you are perhaps looking at the connection for the temp sender for the AC. The gauge sender should be under the thermostat housing on the IP side of the motor. Single green / blue wire.
To remove coolant I use a small hand suction pump that you can attach a peice of 1/2 hose to....the kind used to draw engine oil from marine applications that have no drain plug....and just stick it in the top of the rad . You cannot remove all the coolant this way but perhaps 1/2 of it. Then you can go to the top part of the bottom hose and run the pump hose all the way to the bottom of the rad and suck the rest out. Very little mess. Sounds like your done but this may help next time.
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  #23  
Old March 14th, 2011, 09:14 AM
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Next time I'll try a super siphon.

I used to have AC but it was removed by previous owner. Both plugs on the bottom are gone. I do have a coolant temp gauge but the sender must be elsewhere. I swapped the thermostat because my truck runs extremely cold. Either there was something wrong with the thermostat or the gauge/sender.
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  #24  
Old March 14th, 2011, 09:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manimal View Post
I replaced the thermostat and it was a no brainer with the exception of the coolant drain. I can't access my lower radiator bottom hose (to drain) because there is all sorts of of things in the way (skid place, etc). Is there another way to drain coolant without making a mess? I used the return supply line to the expansion tank... unfortunately it was messy.

One other question. There are supposed to be two electrical connectors to the water temperature switch connected to the bottom of the elbow housing. I do not have these and they are nowhere to be found. Just two empty sockets. What am I missing? Is this where the coolant temp gauge is supposed to connect?
those are temp operated switches only on later discos. Your temp sensor is a single wire affair below that
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  #25  
Old October 12th, 2012, 12:24 AM
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I noticed the 300tdi engine was running a little hot on my last road trip. Drove for 4+ hours at around 70-75 MPH on the freeway. Fully loaded with 3 kayaks on top. I have a new VDO gauge so am wondering if it really is overheating or the gauge needs calibrating? Gauge is always well past 180 on freeway and at times it would jump up to 220. I have recently flushed and cleaned the rad but I do have a full size intercooler sitting in front of the radiator so perhaps it is not getting enough air flow? It only happens on freeway. City driving is fine.

Any suggestions for how to diagnose what the problem is? Get a laser temp and check actual temp to see if the sender/gauge is reading correctly? What else can I do?
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  #26  
Old October 12th, 2012, 10:15 AM
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those temp guages (I have vdo as well) are very sensitive to their signal vs ground wire connections on the back. I got an IR temp gauge for about $10 from harbor freight which helped verify things alot. if the IR verifies the gauge, then I would look at your radiator next. could have some clogging which forces the coolant to bypass (tropical mod!).

I just went through what you did. I ended up needing a new radiator, and I had signal probs as well with the vdo.
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  #27  
Old October 12th, 2012, 02:49 PM
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I ended up running a dedicated wire from the sender to the gauge and adding another ground strap to the engine to get my VDO gauge really reliable and accurate. Overkill maybe but at least I now trust my gauge.
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  #28  
Old October 12th, 2012, 05:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander View Post
those temp guages (I have vdo as well) are very sensitive to their signal vs ground wire connections on the back. I got an IR temp gauge for about $10 from harbor freight which helped verify things alot. if the IR verifies the gauge, then I would look at your radiator next. could have some clogging which forces the coolant to bypass (tropical mod!).

I just went through what you did. I ended up needing a new radiator, and I had signal probs as well with the vdo.
Same here. I ended up running a dedicated ground wire from the negative battery cable to the engine block, double-grounding the instrument cluster, making sure the lights and gauges were isolated from one another, and replacing the ground cable, and I still get a 5 temperature degree jump when both cooling fans start up. I probably need to check the grounding on the fans - the guy who put in my 300 Tdi was not an electrical genius.

I did run into cooling problems here during the hotter days of south-central Texas - sometimes the cooling fans could just barely keep up. I ended up having a custom radiator made - no more cooling problems, even while pulling a U-Haul trailer with the A/C on in August here in Texas.
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  #29  
Old October 30th, 2012, 01:13 AM
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This thread started off seeking a winter vs summer thermostat for our engines.

There does seem to be 2 thermostats that do fit our engine that have 2 different temperature opening points.

I've been doing some looking around trying to find a hotter thermostat (203*F) to try to increase my mileage like they do in the VW tdi's. They run 203*F thermostats.

MOTORAD 319-192 is our standard 192*F thermostat fot the 300tdi, they also make a 319-180 (180*F) Notice the last 3 digits of the part number are indicative of the thermostats temperature.

Common part, you can find them on Amazon & eBaY. Most come without the rubber seal buy it's commonly available too.
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  #30  
Old October 30th, 2012, 11:05 PM
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We have thousands of 300Tdi Defenders and Discoveries here in Argentina. 100% of Defenders and 95% of Discos are Tdi here. Normal and recommended thermostat is 88ēC (190F) for all 300Tdi and for all year round. A good healthy engine (and healthy cooling components) should run closer to the temperature of the thermostat in regular driving, only when pushing it should get close to 205 and in very occasional moments would go past that and until 210. 215 in extreme conditions and I don´t like to run it at this temperature. Between 215 and 220 I would let my foot off and let it cool down.

I have an uprated 5 row radiator but no electric fans, just the stock viscous coupling and a full size intercooler in front of it and my D110 never overheats.

Not familiar with the 200Tdi since we don´t have many of those around here.

Ohh, and I rather a mechanical temp gauge for best accuracy (electronics don´t do ok on a D)

Cheers,
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  #31  
Old October 31st, 2012, 09:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 130Tdi

those are temp operated switches only on later discos.
We do have them in ROW specs Ds fitted with factory A/C.
They work differently and have two specific function. One will open (set off) the electrical circuit of the A/C compressor clutch when you reach a certain temperature, to keep that load off a hot engine, the other one will close (set on) your A/C condenser fan by-passing A/C ecu to help the engine fan for a quicker cooling. One switch has a yellow connector and the other has a green, both connectors are identical, except for the colour, which is a stupid design that can easily makes you plugging them in the wrong switch. I don't remember the operation temperature of those switches but we can find out.
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  #32  
Old November 27th, 2012, 02:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis View Post
This thread started off seeking a winter vs summer thermostat for our engines.

There does seem to be 2 thermostats that do fit our engine that have 2 different temperature opening points.

I've been doing some looking around trying to find a hotter thermostat (203*F) to try to increase my mileage like they do in the VW tdi's. They run 203*F thermostats.

MOTORAD 319-192 is our standard 192*F thermostat fot the 300tdi, they also make a 319-180 (180*F) Notice the last 3 digits of the part number are indicative of the thermostats temperature.

Common part, you can find them on Amazon & eBaY. Most come without the rubber seal buy it's commonly available too.
Additional note on these Motorad thermostats. The "jiggle pin" (breather) is installed backwards. The pin is made of brass so it is possible to reverse it by squeezing the "flag" portion of it with vice-grips so that you can get it out of the hole and reverse it and re-flatten it.
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  #33  
Old December 31st, 2012, 10:35 PM
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I got an IR Temp gun recently and the temp reads about 9F lower than my VDO gauge. According to my IR gun its 171F when the gauge reads 180F. Is the VDO temp gauge adjustable or is my ground bad?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander View Post
those temp guages (I have vdo as well) are very sensitive to their signal vs ground wire connections on the back. I got an IR temp gauge for about $10 from harbor freight which helped verify things alot. if the IR verifies the gauge, then I would look at your radiator next. could have some clogging which forces the coolant to bypass (tropical mod!).

I just went through what you did. I ended up needing a new radiator, and I had signal probs as well with the vdo.
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  #34  
Old December 31st, 2012, 11:29 PM
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Mine does exactly the same. As I remember the VDO wants a ground wire gauge of 16, I ran it separate to the main ground lug on the engine side of the fire wall as my gauge runs high too. The thing I didn't comply with was the instructions NOT to use pipe dope on the sender threads, that's where my error may be. I also run a #8 wire from the battery to the Alt mount just to be sure I was getting a good engine to frame/battery ground.

What's the error range of your IR gun ? Mine is +/- 2*F, many are +/- 4*F or larger error.
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  #35  
Old January 1st, 2013, 12:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manimal View Post
I replaced the thermostat and it was a no brainer with the exception of the coolant drain. I can't access my lower radiator bottom hose (to drain) because there is all sorts of of things in the way (skid place, etc). Is there another way to drain coolant without making a mess? I used the return supply line to the expansion tank... unfortunately it was messy.

One other question. There are supposed to be two electrical connectors to the water temperature switch connected to the bottom of the elbow housing. I do not have these and they are nowhere to be found. Just two empty sockets. What am I missing? Is this where the coolant temp gauge is supposed to connect?
When I drain mine down what I do is take the little cap off the radiator stick a 3/8" hose to the bottom and start a siphon to a 5 gal. bucket set on the ground in front. You'll need a bout a 5' section of vinyl hose to do this. With the clear hose you'll never get the coolant in your mouth either.
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