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300 TDi Power Steering Pump

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300 tdi tdi
10K views 17 replies 8 participants last post by  mdcoa 
#1 · (Edited)
Got an Allmakes ANR2157, as well as all the hoses one needs for an LHD TDi (which was surprisingly hard for me to figure out--for anyone else looking, you need ANR2485, ANR6656, and QEH102370, as well as two sizes of o-rings, which may or may not come on one or both ends of your hoses--RTC4825 for the low-pressure hose to box junction and RTC4826 for both ends of the high pressure hose).

Got everything mostly on and go to reinstall the pulley (ERR3733), and it doesn't fit on the Allmakes pump. The flange or boss or whatever it is in the middle of the pulley mounting point is about 1mm too big. The hole is 29mm, the flange or whatever on the old pump is 29mm, and I'll be darned if the new pump doesn't have a 30mm thingmo.

Will jump on with Tapatalk in a moment and post some photos, and would welcome any thoughts on whether I possibly missed something. I initially thought, uh oh, maybe this is one of those "up to VIN XXXXXX" parts, but then I saw the PN on my old pump, and it's the same.

So for tonight I split the old pump apart, replaced the obviously failed gasket/adhesive/silicone contraption someone had put in there with good ol RTV, reinstalled everything, and will let her sit overnight before filling with fluid, bleeding, and testing.

Would welcome any thoughts on what the heck happened with my replacement pump.

------ Follow up post added January 13th, 2017 11:10 PM ------

Late night driveway repair pics!



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#2 ·
New pump installed; cannot get it to generate any pressure--any good bleed techniques for stubborn systems?

Full story:

So the silicon fix unsurprisingly didn't work for the original pump.

Today I took the pulley off, put a sanding drum on my Dremel, and carefully sanded the inside of the hole until it fit on the new pump.

Installed everything . . . pump is not generating pressure. Followed RAVE instructions for bleeding--no bubbles. Jacked front end of truck up, turned from lock to lock, tried this with bleeder valve both open and closed. Probably a bubble stuck in there, but I'll be doggone if I can get the thing to work. When I reinstalled the original pump and started the bleed process [before I realized it was squirting fluid everywhere and gave up], it was at least having the courtesy to foam the fluid. The current pump is doing absolutely nothing.

[Part numbers above in post #1 are for a D1 300TDi]
 
#3 ·
Update:

After hours of attempting to bleed the system (involving a Mity Vac, assorted tubing, one axle stand and one jack, steering manipulation, a test drive without any power steering, and one disco-shaped voodoo doll), I have determined that the pump appears to be running backwards--with the steering box bleed valve open and the engine idling, air is apparently being sucked into the circuit and the fluid overflows the reservoir, with obvious giant bubbles glurging up. Same thing happens if I slacken the high pressure hose connection at the pump, which I reckon ought to result in lots of fluid spraying everywhere. (I double checked the routing of my serpentine belt, and it's correct).

I'm wondering if perhaps someone at the Allmakes factory put the wrong pump in the box I received--would perhaps explain the need to modify my pulley and the fact that the pump runs the wrong direction.

So now a) I'm getting pretty good at swapping pumps and b) I need to order both a different pump and a new pulley, since I probably ruined mine by modifying it to fit on a pump that is either seriously defective or designed for some other vehicle.

Good times.
 
#4 ·
To put it mildly, sucks to be you. As there will be no compenation for time/energy/pulley.

This is a good write up, hopefully you get it sorted soon, and whatever vendor you worked with helps to make it right.
 
#5 ·
I've changed many PS pumps and never had to bleed them. They're supposed to get the air out of the system by themselves if you have sufficient PS liquid in the tank.
 
#6 ·
There is no bleeding other than to turn the wheel from lock to lock with the engine running the pump.
 
#9 ·
Thanks, KGH.

At this point, I'll be happy if they refund the money for the mistaken part, particularly if they do so without making me mail it back across the pond and wait several weeks for expert analysis . . . I figure it was my own impulse-control issues that led to the pulley's destruction, so I'll eat that.


(of course, it would've been nice if they'd written me back and said, "hey, that doesn't sound right, let us send you another pump--in reality they have yet to respond at all")

The good news is, I'm getting pretty good at power steering pump removal and installation--I had the original out once for diagnosis, then put the new one in, found out the pulley didn't fit, attempted a repair on the original, pulled the new one, put the original back in, leaked like mad, pulled it and put the new one back in with "custom" (aka ruined for all future use) pulley. One more to go, Lord willing.

What an unbelievable mess it makes, though. I've done a lot of messy repairs, and this one is, well, maybe even messier. Would love to watch a pro with a clean outfit do it--I'll bet there's a way to do it and not look like Pigpen, but I ain't figured it out. . .

------ Follow up post added January 16th, 2017 09:48 PM ------







Best I can do at night with everything put together but it's just like here in the Haynes manual:




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#12 ·
Pretty sure this isn't it, although I did do a complete line replacement--when I reinstalled the original pump, it was definitely working just fine, other than spewing fluid all over. Put the new one in without changing any of the lines, and began this escapade.

I actually don't think it'd be possible to incorrectly install the lines--the high pressure and low-pressure lines use very different fittings at the pump (flared with o-ring for the high pressure line and hose clamp for the low pressure line, which leads from reservoir to pump). The only two fittings in the whole system that are similar are the ones at the box (high pressure coming from pump and a return to the reservoir), and Land Rover had the wisdom to make them different sizes so we can't screw it up. And the two lines at the reservoir are different sizes.
 
#13 ·
Yeh there's no way to switch the lines around. I am beginning to wonder tho if the problem really is in the pump and not in the steering box. Could be your shuttle valve is stuck and the build up of pressure blows out the pump seals. This might explain why you aren't able to bleed the air since the air, having no where to go, is constantly churning in the pump. Justa thot.
 
#14 ·
We'll know pretty soon--a new ZF pump is headed this way and should arrive Thursday . . . it sure could be a box problem, but I don't know nearly enough about how the boxes work to conclude if a faulty valve in the box would cause air to be sucked into the system through ports that, if the pump is working, should be under pressure, not vacuum.


And the seal in my original pump was not the shaft seal--it was the gasket between front and rear pump body. When I pulled it apart, it was pretty clear it was a reman that had previously had that seal fail and had some metal erosion. . . so it was just a matter of time before that gasket failed and fluid started weeping. I wonder if I can just barely skim that surface and try to re-seal it--that pump is built like a brick outhouse, obviously much sturdier than the Allparts one. . . cast iron vs. aluminum.


I actually don't think there's much air in the system (until it sucks some in via an open port)--there's none of the foaming you'd expect to see, and the power steering doesn't work at all--when I put the original pump back in, the power steering worked but moaned like crazy because I'd not yet bled it/given it time to self bleed. And I had a strawberry milkshake in the reservoir. None of those symptoms this time. I guess it's possible that I had 100% correlation between putting the new pump in and a catastrophic steering box valve failure, but it does seem unlikely, no?


Can I drive the thing with no PS without damaging anything? Don't think I'll need to, but would like to know, just in case.


Thanks for helping me try to sort out the mystery.
 
#15 · (Edited)
Amazing what a difference the right part makes . . .

Batch 2 of parts from LRDirect arrived today: the new ZF Pump had the same size pulley flange as the original . . . good thing I ordered a new (Britpart) pulley.

In 1.5 hours I got the fan etc out of the way, old pump off, new pump on, new o-ring on, lines replaced, truck back together, coolant bled. Then the moment of truth: jacked up front wheels, turned it on. Watched it for a bit, then mustered my courage and grabbed the steering wheel--it was easy to turn!! Turned it to full lock for a second or two on each side. it moaned a bit. Topped off fluid. Back and forth a few times--still easy, an dead quiet. Topped off again. Opened bleed valve on steering box. Got clear fluid out. Test drive. Works great.

No leaks yet observed; the high pressure o-ring at the Allisport pump was chewed up, which makes me think that, even though that pump had the right thread, it had different internals--hope it didn't mess up the tip of the line.

LRDirect has pawned me off on Allparts for my issue with the first pump, which perhaps is fair--they did send me a box with the right number on it. Haven't heard from Allparts yet, unsurprisingly.

Am fairly furious I lost a weekend and an original LR pulley because someone sent me the wrong part (or a seriously defective one)--I lost probably 7 hours of my time, several quarts of fluid, my pride, and my sanity, and ruined original pulley, which cost $50 to replace with an inferior product. . .

But I guess I did learn a lot . .
 
#16 ·
I had a similar thing once, fitted a new pump to my old 300, it never worked, seemed to blow back and pressurise the reservoir.

Once I'd removed it, I found there was a rubber bung in the pipe (fitted on manufacture to keep any muck out of the pump)

Pulled it out, and then it worked AOK! and boy did I feel like a dick.
 
#17 ·
Fortunately for me, the plugs on both pump inlet and outlet were so painfully obvious that I could not fail to remove them during the installation.

I heard back from LRDirect early this week--they heard from the Allmakes rep, who confirmed that they had a bad run of these pumps, and suspects that mine is from that batch. They've asked me to send it back so they can get the refund moving.

Now if I could just get the belt to stop squeaking on the new pulley . . .
 
#18 ·
Just an update on this one: LRDirect was great--they talked to All Makes consistently over a week or two, and worked with them to credit me for both the pump (which I didn't even have to spend $50 to send back to the UK) and the pulley I destroyed in the process of trying to fit the defective pulley. Kudos to both manufacturer and vendor.
 
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