300 tdi fuel injector replacement (HOW TO) - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old June 24th, 2013, 01:52 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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I have a 2 Micron 6" Stanadyne filter.
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  #22  
Old August 23rd, 2016, 03:41 PM
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What's the best way to get the copper washers off of the fuel return line? They are stuck on the banjo bolts, they turn, but won't come back off the threads. Don't want to damage bolts.
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  #23  
Old August 23rd, 2016, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by RBBailey View Post
What's the best way to get the copper washers off of the fuel return line? They are stuck on the banjo bolts, they turn, but won't come back off the threads. Don't want to damage bolts.
Mine just fell off when I pulled the banjo bolt out. Had to track it down since I made the mistake of not ordering extra $0.05 washers. I realize time is of the essence for you right now, but maybe order some new banjo bolts and copper washers now (they're not expensive) while you try to get the old ones separated??
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  #24  
Old August 23rd, 2016, 04:09 PM
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I have two sets of the washers for the injectors and bolts, but not extra bolts.

Not sure why these washers won't come off.
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  #25  
Old August 23rd, 2016, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by RBBailey View Post
I have two sets of the washers for the injectors and bolts, but not extra bolts. Not sure why these washers won't come off.
I get it man - hang in there. My truck cooperates with the same noncompliant attitude as yours.

Maybe you can just cut the washer(s) off with a pair of pointy tin snips without damaging the threads ??
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  #26  
Old August 23rd, 2016, 04:17 PM
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Can you use a small pick/hook to pop them loose of banjo?
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  #27  
Old August 23rd, 2016, 05:14 PM
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Yes, I used a tiny flat screw driver to get under it, then carefully bent it up enough to grab it with pliers. Then I was able to use a socket on the bolt to back it out. Hope I didn't score the bolt, or the fitting, too much. Takes a while to coax it out, but now I'm going to try to get the other three.
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  #28  
Old August 23rd, 2016, 05:17 PM
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Robert Davis
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For anyone removing injectors to rebuild if you follow the steps in post 1 you will likely ruin the cores.
I realize this was a non-issue for Jason because he was installing new injectors.
BUT
If you apply this to 200TDI injectors, you'll learn an expensive lesson:
DO NOT put a wrench over the area where the spill over line banjo seats or use vise grips to extract the injector core as it will gouge the housing and prevent the spill over line crush washer from seating to a flat surface.
The gouges from the wrench and vice grips will act as a leak channel.
We can sometimes have this machined, but the setup is expensive and generally costs between $50 and $100.
DO NOT move the wrench back and forth...
Because if the injector unscrews and you tighten it again most likely the internals will be damaged and or broken.
Over tightening the injector has greater consequences than severing the head hold down stud, it will crack the nut that holds the injector nozzle in place and render the injector useless.
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  #29  
Old August 23rd, 2016, 05:48 PM
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I've been lucky enough that the injectors I pulled last week were all loose once the bracket was taken off. All came out by hand.

Are you suggesting, though, that doing what is shown here: ...is not so good, or that using "vice grips" is the wrong way to do it? I was prepared to use a standard spanner on mine, before I realized they were all free anyway.
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  #30  
Old August 23rd, 2016, 06:10 PM
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That is a brilliant way to extract an injector.
Note that when the injector was grabbed with pliers that it was after a rag was placed over the injector to insulate the metal on metal scenario.

In the absence of a slide hammer with the proper fittings, this is 1000 times better than a wrench and vice grips.

IF YOU WANT TO SAVE THE CORE!
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UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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  #31  
Old August 23rd, 2016, 06:44 PM
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OK, yeah, that makes sense.
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  #32  
Old August 23rd, 2016, 07:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
I realize this was a non-issue for Jason because he was installing new injectors.

In the absence of a slide hammer with the proper fittings, this is 1000 times better than a wrench and vice grips.

IF YOU WANT TO SAVE THE CORE!
This write-up from 2011 was back when 300 injectors were $80/each for brand new Bosch....$80! Hell, I think those old ones got tossed in the trash or given away! But yeah, I wasn't too worried about reusing the cores since new ones were in-hand and cheap as heck (at that time)....now they are hens teeth!
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  #33  
Old August 25th, 2016, 08:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
This write-up from 2011 was back when 300 injectors were $80/each for brand new Bosch....$80! Hell, I think those old ones got tossed in the trash or given away! But yeah, I wasn't too worried about reusing the cores since new ones were in-hand and cheap as heck (at that time)....now they are hens teeth!
Understood... no problem.
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UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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  #34  
Old October 12th, 2017, 08:19 PM
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Because I know my truck, I'm preparing for the worst. My questions:

1. Besides spraying brake clean down in the holes and thoroughly spraying them as clean as possible before removing the injectors. How do you clean out the holes, especially after the injector is removed? Steal wool? Plug the hole with an earplug or something and just clean it with more brake clean and pipe cleaners?

2. All dimensions metric? Pick up a set of metric crows feet to get this all snugged up properly?

Thanks
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  #35  
Old October 13th, 2017, 06:13 AM
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Oscar:
The only real way to get all the grit and foreign particulate out of the hole and prevent it from entering the engine combusting area, is to do it with the head removed.
Since this is not an option for most people, here are a few tips that I follow.
Carefully scrape the stuff out trying to keep it from falling down the hole into the injector.
I have an angled scraper I use that looks like a small screwdriver with a right angle piece at the very tip (to help keep debris from falling in the hole.
Steel wool is not a good option and neither is sand paper, but scraping and spraying cleaner is OK as long as you don't spray enough to hydro lock the piston.
Some trash is going to enter the engine, which will most likely get combusted and "evaporate".
If you feel you have sprayed a lot of cleaner in the cylinders, then you can spin the engine with the injectors out with the starter to force the cleaner out through the injector hole.
Be aware that anything inside the engine will come out with a good amount of force due to the diesel compression ratio, so be extra careful if you do this.

Also be aware that trash in the fuel can and will clog up new injectors as well as any grit that slips in the lines during the installation process.
The orifice of a new injector is much smaller than an old used one with an etched out nozzle.
It can get messy, but it is always a good idea to flush the lines before attaching them to the new injector.

We have a limited number of new 300TDI and Bosch reman 200TDI injectors if anyone needs any.
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Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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  #36  
Old October 13th, 2017, 08:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackField View Post
Because I know my truck, I'm preparing for the worst. My questions:

1. Besides spraying brake clean down in the holes and thoroughly spraying them as clean as possible before removing the injectors. How do you clean out the holes, especially after the injector is removed? Steal wool? Plug the hole with an earplug or something and just clean it with more brake clean and pipe cleaners?

2. All dimensions metric? Pick up a set of metric crows feet to get this all snugged up properly?

Thanks
If a small amount of grime falls in the hole it will just get burned up/blown out when you start the engine.
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