300 tdi excessive white smoke? - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old December 29th, 2014, 06:29 PM
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I've seen failed head gaskets cause white smoke, but this generally comes with coolant loss and pressurization.

Have also seen lack of fuel cause white smoke as Uncle Richard suggests.
You could also have a suction side fuel leak, which I have heard can be located by installing a 12V diesel fuel pump back by the tank.

Say what?
Another fuel system that could benefit from a sedimenter & 12V fuel pump, say it's not so???
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  #22  
Old December 29th, 2014, 06:56 PM
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White smoke if caused from diesel and not coolant is unburnt diesel. For some reason the fuel did not burn. It can be from being injected too late. It can be not enough compression. It can be complete lack of air. It can be from a really bad spray pattern.
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  #23  
Old December 29th, 2014, 07:40 PM
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Any bubbles inside the coolant reservoir?
Raising oil level? Have a look at it!
Remove the injectors and turn the engine by the starter: any water comming out?

White smog belongs of water.
Unburned fuel is light blue.

I would like to have a look at the head gasket.
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  #24  
Old December 29th, 2014, 07:56 PM
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Unburnt fuel can be white or blue smoke. You can tell in one second by smelling it.

There is no way he is burning coolant on a cold engine with no pressure in the cooling system.
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  #25  
Old December 29th, 2014, 08:19 PM
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There was no reply about your question what about the thread starter will smell, if he did it.

So we have a light advantage about the head gasket failure against smarter failures.

Let's have a vote.
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  #26  
Old December 29th, 2014, 09:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
sounds fuel/injection related to me. You opened the system in two places, did you bleed it thoroughly ?
Doug,

Symptoms were the same before and after I changed the fuel filter. I pre filled the new filter with clean diesel and loosened the 10 mm bolt on top and manually primed until fuel ran out.
I am running one of Robert's sendimenters in place of that paper filter that was installed that we previously discussed...

------ Follow up post added December 29th, 2014 09:17 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Arlo View Post
There was no reply about your question what about the thread starter will smell, if he did it.

So we have a light advantage about the head gasket failure against smarter failures.

Let's have a vote.
smells like diesel!
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  #27  
Old December 29th, 2014, 09:45 PM
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Is it hard to start ? An air leak would cause the lack of power and smoke you describe. With it running take a wrench and crack the fitting where the fuel line goes into ea injector. It should stumble due to loss of that that cyl. If you have one that does not then you know that cyl/injector is your issue. White smoke is often retarded timing- ie injector sprays @ wrong point on compression stroke.
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  #28  
Old December 29th, 2014, 10:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
Is it hard to start ? An air leak would cause the lack of power and smoke you describe. With it running take a wrench and crack the fitting where the fuel line goes into ea injector. It should stumble due to loss of that that cyl. If you have one that does not then you know that cyl/injector is your issue. White smoke is often retarded timing- ie injector sprays @ wrong point on compression stroke.
Thanks, so If I find one, what's the fix?
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  #29  
Old December 29th, 2014, 10:23 PM
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It probably means a bad injector. But based on your description of no power I doubt it is a one cylinder issue. The trucks will drive fine on three cylinders. A bit rough but still lots of power. This is why I suspect a timing issue.
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  #30  
Old December 29th, 2014, 11:00 PM
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Correct me if I'm wrong but, if the problem is the timing belt/idler pulley, wouldn't the camshaft affected? And if so, wouldn't the valve be out of timing as well? And finally, with them tdi engine high compression, wouldn't the pistons hits the valves?

Surely a bad timing would give those symptoms but if the idler pulley was loose it would bring a sh@t storm would it?
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  #31  
Old December 29th, 2014, 11:08 PM
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You can be tooth out without interference. It could also be that the adjusting bolts on the pump sprocket came loose and put the pump timing out by itself.
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  #32  
Old December 30th, 2014, 12:08 AM
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somehow, I suspect Briggs is behind this. JSB is the original dsource gremlin



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  #33  
Old December 30th, 2014, 12:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
You can be tooth out without interference. It could also be that the adjusting bolts on the pump sprocket came loose and put the pump timing out by itself.
Just might be mate.
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  #34  
Old December 30th, 2014, 04:34 AM
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FWIW I'd also go with the timing aspect.

As an aside the 200 and 300tdi's will self prime after a fuel filter change when the starter motor is turned. They may cut out once but will start the second/third time.

On the subject of starting...they also don't need to rely on their glow plugs and will start on a quarter turn from cold usually....if Baltic it'll take just a couple of more turns to do so.

Whilst the subject of coolant has been mentioned I can offer a little cheap tip to assist,if not already known that is,in keeping the cooling system up to speed.

If your engine is fitted with plastic plugs at the thermostat and at the top RHS of the radiator replace them with brass fittings as over time they get brittle,fail and cause coolant leaks,with obvious results thereafter.

Brass plug part number = ERR4686

The lesser known tip would be every couple of years,if your truck is running with the plastic expansion bottle/header tank ,is to replace the plastic pressure screw top,as these can seize and not release pressure.

This results in the expansion bottle splitting at the plastic welded seams and loosing coolant with the same results as the plugs.

Radiator cap part number = NTC7161

I hope the OP finds that his problem is none too difficult.


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  #35  
Old December 30th, 2014, 08:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
You can be tooth out without interference. It could also be that the adjusting bolts on the pump sprocket came loose and put the pump timing out by itself.
Thanks, might be on to something as I heard something coming loose, intermittent noise, and then that went away… Maybe 25-50 miles ago...
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  #36  
Old December 30th, 2014, 08:44 AM
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I would make sure the engine has a steady flow of fuel before you start making pump adjustments.
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  #37  
Old December 30th, 2014, 08:58 AM
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air free fuel flow.
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  #38  
Old December 30th, 2014, 08:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
I would make sure the engine has a steady flow of fuel before you start making pump adjustments.
I'm not suggesting pump adjustments. I'm suggesting he check that the timing is okay and the timing adjustment bolts are not loose. This takes a few minutes.
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  #39  
Old December 30th, 2014, 01:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CDNRover View Post
Correct me if I'm wrong but, if the problem is the timing belt/idler pulley, wouldn't the camshaft affected? And if so, wouldn't the valve be out of timing as well? And finally, with them tdi engine high compression, wouldn't the pistons hits the valves?

Surely a bad timing would give those symptoms but if the idler pulley was loose it would bring a sh@t storm would it?
The slack in the timing belt is after the cam shaft & timing belt adjustment relies on adjusting the injection pump timing with the crank shaft and cam shaft stationary. My 110 injection pump was about 1/2 tooth retarded, it was sluggish when the weather was very cold at start-up and produced blue/white smoke if left ticking over or on over-run when cold. I didn't notice a lack of power until I replaced the timing belt after 60,000 miles. The timing mistake was made during the 2 year rebuild. There was a marked increase in power when corrected and the blue/white smoke went away as did the sluggishness when cold.

I think that the pump timing belt wheel coming loose(even if the bolts slackened slightly) would bring on a state of maximum retardation on the injection pump. There would be a complete lack of power and a lot of smoke. My advice would be to check the pump timing. there are marks to line up and a 9mm dowel to slip into the injection pump. I'd do that check first. (It wouldn't affect the valve timing so there should be no engine damage.)
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  #40  
Old December 30th, 2014, 01:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
air free fuel flow.
In my experience a lack of fuel just means it won't rev or even tick over in the worst case.
My old 90 suffered a blocked fuel pick-up filter and ended up going slower and slower until it would only just tick over. When the engine was stopped the suction on the pick-up pipe was reduced, the crap fell off the filter and after a few minutes normal service was resumed until all the crap (paint flakes from a very dirty ex-aarmy jerry can of fuel) collected around the filter again. Took me a good while to suss that one out. Finally fixed by draining & filtering the contents of the tank. (Somewhere on here is a thread detailing my diagnosis misadventures)[here http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ead.php?t=3860 ]

Also a standard tdi fuel system self bleeds very efficiently. After my 110 complete rebuild the engine fired up after about a minute of cranking (not nonstop, I don't like destroying starter motors), ran a little roughly and cleared after a couple of blips of the throttle. It takes quite a bit to stop these engines running.
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