300 Tdi Brake Vacuum Pump - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old September 18th, 2013, 11:03 PM
skrufy
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Tim Timmins
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300 Tdi Brake Vacuum Pump

Hi-

A search of the Forum archives didn't reveal this subject- and/or I didn't ask the right word phrase- so sorry if this has been covered....

My brake servo vacuum pump is leaking like a sieve- is there any reason why the repairs can't be done in place? Not sure which brainiac decided on rivets vs. bolts to secure the side cover- I guess this is a common complaint.... I see no reason why the rivets can't be drilled out in place, the gasket, etc cleaned, and then the cover put back on with bolts...

Does the engine need to be- #1piston at TDC?

any help/thoughts would be greatly appreciated....

TIm

87 110 300 TDi
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  #2  
Old September 19th, 2013, 09:15 AM
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Tim,

I repaired mine a couple of years ago. Google "300 tdi vacuum pump repair" and go to the first landyzone.co.uk link for the procedure I followed. A bit of a pain to remove, but necessary. And yes, the engine needs to have #1 at TDC.

FYI, it's started seeping again. My next plan of action is to replace it with an electric vacuum pump.
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  #3  
Old September 19th, 2013, 09:58 AM
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yeah removal was the biggest pain in doing the job
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  #4  
Old September 19th, 2013, 10:04 AM
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I'll bet it woudn't be a big effort to switch to the 2.8 version, which has the pump mounted on the back of the alternator, just to give you options.
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  #5  
Old September 19th, 2013, 10:53 AM
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What about capping it off and adding a 12V vacuum pump for powering the brake booster?
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  #6  
Old September 19th, 2013, 11:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hillstrubl View Post
What about capping it off and adding a 12V vacuum pump for powering the brake booster?
Just my thought, but one primary reason to convert to diesel was to toss engine electrics out of the car and leave them dead on the side of the road like the B**** they are. I can't imagine wanting to re-electrify the powertrain, particularly the brakes!

Lucas Electric Brakes... anybody else get a chill reading that?
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  #7  
Old September 19th, 2013, 12:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skrufy View Post
Hi-
(...)
I see no reason why the rivets can't be drilled out in place, the gasket, etc cleaned, and then the cover put back on with bolts...
(...)
Does the engine need to be- #1piston at TDC?
Hi,

been there done that, it stopped leaking, for a while at least, now after some months it does it again

Anyway yes, you can do it, and don't worry about TDC etc, I pulled mine and bolted back in place without fuss, just push it.
I found it more comfortable to crawl under the truck to reach some bolts and refit.

Linkie:
http://www.the4wdzone.com/vacuumpumpfix.htm

Have fun!
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  #8  
Old September 19th, 2013, 01:37 PM
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Shouldn't it not be getting oil in it in the first place? I always thought sealing it was just a band-aid type fix. I replaced mine, and I don't think it took more than 20 min or so.
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  #9  
Old September 20th, 2013, 02:46 AM
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Tim Timmins
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Well boyz and girls-

The repairs have been made in place- drilled out the rivets, cleaned everything, piston cover put back in place, and bolted up.... Hopefully no leaks for a long time. Breaks continue to work great- didn't have any problems there, just oil leaks...

Observations:

-if you don't have an 90d angle drill- forget it doing it in place. I used a 90d air drill, which makes for easier control IMHO as you drill out the rivets- that took 5 minutes. Used a 5/16 drill bit your standard 5? inches long, which was about maximum- much better fit would be to cut a drill bit in half- a 3 inch long drill bit would allow you to work amongst the various hoses and
cables much easier. There are two rivets that are very hard to see......

-The total job took maybe 3 hours, mostly because the bolts I had laid out weren't long enough- you need 6 about 1 inch long, so it took a while to search my parts bins for those, plus two washers, a lock washer, and nut. These were of a different size than I had planned
using.

-it's such a tight fit under the air filter canister, I put the bolts in backwards. Heads were on the engine side with the threads coming outwards- it would take hours and hours to try to put the bolts in like you would do with it sitting on your bench. Nearly impossible to do it the normal way, as you can't see two of the bolts well anyway, and putting the fastner together with the washers/nut on the inside will have you out there 'til dawn....

-to aid in finding the stuff you are going to drop, add paper towels below to catch what you will drop in this exercise by Braille.... This will reduce the amount of cussing that has been transpiring already.

-my orange o-ring was in good shape- just cleaned it up good, along with the surface contact points. There was no paper gasket, so I used Permatex Anaerobic Gasket Maker- great stuff. Have used it on Porsche 911 engines with great success, and not much chance of "pinchers" or "loafs" of rtv silicone. Silicone pinches out of the seams, gets hard and rubbery, and if it breaks off and gets in the oil stream, it plugs stuff up. Have seen $50k Porsche race engines that failed because of pinchers.....

-I didn't bother setting #1 to TDC- there was a slight "gasp!" of air when I popped the edge of the cover.

-of course it started to pour down rain- so I just put a large plastic tarp over everything and continued to put it back together.

-a simple repair, made difficult by all the stuff in the way. If I had to do it all over, I'd take the air filter housing off, and just take the whole vacuum pump off and repair it like everybody else has done. If I had had the right bolts ready to go, it probably would have been quicker to pull the whole unit.....

-Anyway, the repairs were made in place... now to clean up all the leaking/blowback oil mess underneath the 110....

Tim
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  #10  
Old September 20th, 2013, 12:02 PM
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Have you checked for the valves inside the vacuum pump. There are 2 in the cover and 3 behind the piston. All 5 valves need to work ok in order to get good vacuum and avoid a stiff (or too soft) brake pedal. Those valves we get them here from Injection Pumps out of big diesel trucks.

Cheers,
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  #11  
Old September 20th, 2013, 12:43 PM
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Tim Timmins
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All the valves in my vacuum pump must be working a-ok. Didn't see any damage or anything unusual with the valves in the cover. I just cleaned everything up with Brake Clean, and swabbed the contact surfaces of the pump housing with lacquer thinner just before putting the cover on. BTW, I did loose maybe 2-3 oz of engine oil when I popped the cover off, so be prepared for that with some rag/paper towels below to catch that oil. Don't know if that much oil is supposed to be there or not- if not, maybe the seals on my pump are starting to go bad....? So far, my breaks are working great- no issues other than the previously leaking vacuum pump.....

"Electric Brakes by Lucas"- is that the name for the latest zombie movie? There is a reason why they sell the black "Lucas- Prince of Darkness" t-shirts in the UK......

Overlander, what is the 2.8 version mounted on the back of the alternator? A friend here, a retired test engineer from GM in Detroit, mentioned that they had used an alternator with the vacuum pump mounted on it.... he stopped by for coffee, and said that out of the blue when I showed him what I had to do to fix the oil leak on the 110.

tim
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  #12  
Old February 2nd, 2014, 05:30 PM
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Julien Dalbin
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Is there a kit on the market with all seals and o-rings to rebuild the vacuum pump ?
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  #13  
Old February 2nd, 2014, 11:51 PM
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Tim Timmins
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JFD-

I am pretty new to the Defender and 300Tdi world, so I don't know if there is a gasket kit available for the vacuum pump or not. Maybe some of the older experts here will know. You
might try talking to John (I think...?) at RDS Parts or Craddock's catalog in the UK- or email either to see if one is available. Please let the rest of us know....

SInce I made the repairs in Sept. '13, I have had no oil leaks from the vacuum pump. Why they used rivets in the first place is beyond me.....

Good luck.

Tim
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  #14  
Old February 3rd, 2014, 11:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFD View Post
Is there a kit on the market with all seals and o-rings to rebuild the vacuum pump ?
I have my old one out, I'd be interested in this to rebuild as a spare
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  #15  
Old February 3rd, 2014, 11:37 AM
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Julien Dalbin
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I'm looking around, so far nothing.
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Old February 3rd, 2014, 11:48 AM
skrufy
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Tim Timmins
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Julien-

You might have the best luck with some of the parts houses in the UK. From your location in the DR, parts must be a bit harder to come by, and I don't think most businesses have toll free international calls either.
let us know what you find.

Tim
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  #17  
Old February 5th, 2014, 09:10 AM
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Julien Dalbin
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Found this:

http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/...d.php?t=104116

But couldn't find a valid commercial link so far.

Cheers
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  #18  
Old February 5th, 2014, 12:04 PM
skrufy
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Tim Timmins
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JFD-

Maybe you could contact George Bosch in Pretoria directly about procuring one of his kits. I note that he doesn't include the main o-ring under the main cover- Mine was ok, so I just used the Permatex gasket sealer anyway, as noted above. http://www.permatex.com/products-2/p...t-maker-detail If your main o-ring was cracked/unusable, this Permatex sealer will fill all the voids. Because I repaired the leaking cover in place, I had to install the bolts in the opposite direction. I agree with his pictures- it would have looked more professional to install the bolts as he has- easily done if you have the pump on your workbench.... Let us know what you find. Good luck.

Tim
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  #19  
Old February 8th, 2014, 08:50 PM
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Have a look through this stuff.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/good-oil/4...d-replace.html

Don.
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  #20  
Old May 24th, 2014, 01:23 PM
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Have you checked your servo for this potential problem ??

My original WABCO started to leak oil at about 153K miles, so upon advice I decides to replace it. Since the unit had lasted so long, I decided to use the WABCO again. Once installed it failed at <250 miles. Scouring the web about this failure, there are a few theories, poor workmanship but mostly about the pumps seeming "overuse" IF you have another common problem which is a small crack in the servo. This crack seems to be reported in the same location, on the front left side just next to the master cyl mounting bolt. The crack is very fine and almost un-discernable as it is a hairline crack.

There's various theory's about how the pump works surrounding does it "park" the plunger away from the engine cam at a certain volume of vacuum or does it continuously operate, regardless of the volume of vacuum created? If yours does have this crack, it's bound to be losing vacuum at this point. You may also want to check the hoses and one way valve on the servo too.
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