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  #81  
Old June 29th, 2012, 08:37 AM
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Mike thanks for posting that....great article. Loving the results they posted from XPD. Collin, I'd say pick up a bottle of their stuff (or try the 2-stroke oil, I had heard that before as well) and see what it does to your economy. If it jumps 3mpg and puts you at 20 I'd say call it a day and be happy.

I also can't stress enough driving style. My approach is much, much different in the Tdi. I rarely have the pedal to the metal, just halfway on the gas off the start in 1st, let the motor and turbo do its thing and catch up then shift into 2nd. Same goes through all the gears. Also do a tank where you keep it under/around 60/65 and see where that leads you. It's all of the above that get me the 24-25mpg, when I'm loaded up with gear/family and in a rush hitting 70-75 on the highway I generally drop to 22-ish.
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  #82  
Old June 29th, 2012, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
Collin, any update? Did you replace the lift pump? Just to add insult to injury, here was my last fillup:

734 kilometers
= 455 miles
/ 19 gallons
= 23.95 mpg

I've been intentionally keeping it under 65mph as much as possible, and a lot of this has been highway driving lately...with the AC on about 1/3 of the time.

I'm sure you hate me now.

It's also worth noting that for the most part I only run Shell 45cetane "premium diesel" (or BP 47cetane when I can find it...there's a place in Tysons), and add in 8oz of the XPD in each tank (http://opti-lube.com/index.php/xpd-d...r-product.html). Not that this will drastically improve your economy, but I think the combo in my case gets me an extra 1-1.5mpg (or so is my theory).

what the hell? we don't get premium diesel down here in NC, or any other kind of diesel for that matter. It's only "diesel". We have a Kremlin choice of blends.
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  #83  
Old June 29th, 2012, 09:09 AM
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what the hell? we don't get premium diesel down here in NC, or any other kind of diesel for that matter. It's only "diesel". We have a Kremlin choice of blends.
Are you sure? You sort of have to search it out....took me awhile to track down the Shell with 45 and the BP with 47. You may have to call around a bit....
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  #84  
Old July 10th, 2012, 11:47 AM
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Latest fuel economy figures on the 110:

Regular use with nothing on roof rack: 21 mpg (US) with a combination of city and highway driving (at 70 mph)

Did a 600 mile round trip last weekend with the truck fully loaded (6 passengers, 3 Hardigg cases and a rooftop bag on the roof rack plus assorted bags inside the cabin): 19 mpg (US)

Truck had a hard time getting up the hills at Wintergreen, VA (revs too high in 3rd gear, kept falling out of boost in 4th) and the brakes started to smoke on the way down.

My wife also came to learn first hand of the limitations of the AC in the 110 on the hottest weekend of the year and now calls the truck the biggest piece fo shit I've ever bought. I have a feeling it might be for sale in the near future and a Suburban might take its place.
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  #85  
Old July 10th, 2012, 12:11 PM
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tinted windows goes a long way in helping out the ac sys do its job
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  #86  
Old September 6th, 2017, 11:46 AM
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Optimal RPMs?

I know this is an old thread but am hoping I can bring it back and get some insight from those with more experience than myself.

I recently upgraded from the 2.5 12J and LT77 to the 300Tdi and R380. Night and day in most respects. The one area where I'm not thrilled is with power in 5th gear. She 'feels' like I should shift around 60-63 MPH or 2000-2200 RPMs, but then 5th gear won't carry me up even a modest hill without losing speed/lugging or downshifting.

Based on the Ashcroft calculator I should be seeing ~2150 RPMs @ 60 MPH in 5th gear. What I'm actually seeing is closer to 1,600-1,700 RPMs. If I downshift to 4th I'm seeing about 2,000 RPMs vs the expected 2790.

Ultimately I've got two questions:

1) Any ideas why my real world RPMs are so different from the Ashcroft tool? My tach might be off by a hair (maybe 200 RPMs) but I'm getting readings ~800 lower than expected.

2) What's the optimal RPM range for fuel economy in a 300Tdi? There's obviously a sweet spot between over-reving and lugging the engine.
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  #87  
Old September 6th, 2017, 12:35 PM
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What transfer case gearing? What 5th gear did you get in the R380 (there are different possible ratios) ?

You need to keep it above 2000 rpm to have any power as this is when you get peak boost. Do you have a boost gauge?

Buy a laser tach (they are cheap) and check and adjust, if possible your tach.
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  #88  
Old September 6th, 2017, 12:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DC_Bear View Post
2) What's the optimal RPM range for fuel economy in a 300Tdi? There's obviously a sweet spot between over-reving and lugging the engine.
Due to the way the FIP operates, I would guess it would be the speed at which the following criteria are met:

1. minimum boost pressure
2. minimum accelerator pedal displacement

If you could provide us your actual numerical gear ratios (transmission, transfer case, diff and tire size) that would help us diagnose the discrepancy between your real world results and the ashcroft calculator.
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  #89  
Old September 6th, 2017, 01:14 PM
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Sure thing and thanks for the help and insight.

Gearbox: R380, 5 speed, variant 55A
1st gear: 3.692:1
2nd gear: 2.132:1
3rd gear: 1.397:1
4th gear: 1:1
5th gear: 0.77:1

Transfer box: LT230, variant 62D (1.211) (high 1.211 / low 3.32 but we aren't really worried about the low gears right now).

Diff ratio: 3.54
Tire size 31 inches

I don't have a boost gauge installed in the dash but I ran one under the bonnet to the windscreen for testing. I was getting a little under the recommended 14 PSI / 1 bar (probably closer to 10-12 PSI). Might be a sign I should replace the turbo but that's not cheap so I'm putting it off a bit.
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  #90  
Old September 6th, 2017, 01:35 PM
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1) Your tach is most likely off. Get this adjusted. When you need power, you need to be in a gear that keeps you above 2000 rpm.

2) You won't be able to push a 0.77 5th gear and a 1.2 transfer case without having the fueling and boost turned up. You need things dialed in pretty well to run those ratios. The lower boost is not due to the turbo itself. It is due to a lack of fueling, most likely. You need fuel to make boost.

3) Are your speed numbers accurate. Are you using a GPS or a calibrated speedometer?
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  #91  
Old September 6th, 2017, 01:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
1) Your tach is most likely off. Get this adjusted. When you need power, you need to be in a gear that keeps you above 2000 rpm.

2) You won't be able to push a 0.77 5th gear and a 1.2 transfer case without having the fueling and boost turned up. You need things dialed in pretty well to run those ratios. The lower boost is not due to the turbo itself. It is due to a lack of fueling, most likely. You need fuel to make boost.

3) Are your speed numbers accurate. Are you using a GPS or a calibrated speedometer?
1) Ill get a laser tach and adjust the VDO tach. Where are you pointing the laser to get the best read?

2) My fuel filter, and lines are new but did not tweak the pump output. Is this how you would recommend getting more fuel?

3) Speed #s ought to be accurate. Using GPS VDO speedo sender + RAM dash mounted cell phone running GPS app confirms VDO sender is consistently 1MPH under what my phone shows.
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  #92  
Old September 6th, 2017, 01:48 PM
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Agree with what said above. My mildly detuned 200tdi in a 1.2 transfer case it was a considerable challenge to go up steep hills. Egts were high economy was poor. Switching to a 1.4 transfer case tuning the pump back up Made hills much much better, this is on 35s
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  #93  
Old September 6th, 2017, 01:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DC_Bear View Post
1) Ill get a laser tach and adjust the VDO tach. Where are you pointing the laser to get the best read?
The tach will come with reflective tape. You stick a short piece on the outside of the harmonic dampener on the front of the crankshaft.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DC_Bear View Post
2) My fuel filter, and lines are new but did not tweak the pump output. Is this how you would recommend getting more fuel?
You need an EGT gauge with the sensor between the engine and the turbo and a boost gauge. You then need to adjust the fueling setting on the injection pump and the wastegate settings. It is somewhat involved, but there are lots of writeup around. The only other option is to change to stock gearing with a 1.4 transfer case.
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  #94  
Old September 6th, 2017, 02:04 PM
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Clay (@1of40) recommended an Iphone app called Engine RPM that I used to set my idle/tach. Works pretty good using the microphone to find sound patterns to determine RPM. I think it was like $8 but made things real easy.

As per Ashcroft "The ideal target RPM is 2,700 revs at 70 mph in top gear."

I can accelerate up hills (slowly) in 5th gear at 65-70mph. R380 Stumpy .77 5th, 1.4 T case, 31.5" tires, 200tdi, 16psi boost, stock fueling.


To me it sounds like your tach is off and maybe your throttle cable isn't adjusted properly. Make sure when you go full throttle on the pedal the pump is opening all the way. You want just a tiny bit of slack in cable at idle.
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  #95  
Old September 6th, 2017, 03:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
The tach will come with reflective tape. You stick a short piece on the outside of the harmonic dampener on the front of the crankshaft.
Got it. Thanks.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
You need an EGT gauge with the sensor between the engine and the turbo and a boost gauge. You then need to adjust the fueling setting on the injection pump and the wastegate settings. It is somewhat involved, but there are lots of writeup around.
I've got a MadMan EMS2 on order so once I've got that in hand I will begin wiring the EGT sender and boost pressure. I've read some generic tuning and will search the forums for info, but if you care to point me to a solid write-up I'll print it out for reference in a few weeks when I tackle the tuning.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
The only other option is to change to stock gearing with a 1.4 transfer case.
I actually had the option of 1.2 or 1.4 and opted for 1.2 because my motivating fear was top speed (having come from the 2.5 12J engine). Turns out those fears were unfounded and now I'm trying to get the power up. haha.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamSanta85 View Post
Clay (@1of40) recommended an Iphone app called Engine RPM that I used to set my idle/tach. Works pretty good using the microphone to find sound patterns to determine RPM. I think it was like $8 but made things real easy.
Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamSanta85 View Post
To me it sounds like your tach is off and maybe your throttle cable isn't adjusted properly. Make sure when you go full throttle on the pedal the pump is opening all the way. You want just a tiny bit of slack in cable at idle.
I'll check the App as a starting point. The laser tach sounds like a sure fire way to check RPMs.

I've got 'considerable' slack in the cable at idle vs a 'tiny bit'. Ha. I'm not driving with the pedal to the floor even on hills, but still something to consider.
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  #96  
Old September 6th, 2017, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by DC_Bear View Post
I'm not driving with the pedal to the floor even on hills, but still something to consider.
You need to use the full throttle. These are not like gasoline engines where most of the power is in the first part of the throttle. Fueling is very linear with throttle and you need full throttle to get full boost and fuel.
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  #97  
Old September 6th, 2017, 03:41 PM
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Sounds like I've probably got a handful of things to work on:

(1) Tach calibration (2) Injector pumps + and turbo tuning (3) Throttle cable (4) My driving style

Once I get the MadMan installed I'll have more confidence driving it at higher RPMs, more throttle on hills, etc and will have instant feedback on how the truck is responding. It occurs to me that I may also want to double check my valve clearances.

Thanks to everyone for the input and insight.
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  #98  
Old September 6th, 2017, 04:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DC_Bear View Post
I've got 'considerable' slack in the cable at idle vs a 'tiny bit'. Ha. I'm not driving with the pedal to the floor even on hills, but still something to consider.
Yea you need to go WOT (wide open throttle) on these things as John (Red90) states. You also need to fix the slack in the cable or the truck will always be a dog compared to what it could be. It only takes a minute to fix.
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