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  #61  
Old June 5th, 2012, 06:57 AM
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One change at a time makes this a slow process.
But an excellent approach! Well done so far.
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  #62  
Old June 6th, 2012, 09:56 AM
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Truck is still running well, but the rocker cover leak is still there. it leaks only on the injector side along the whole length.

I used a new seal, proper torque, yada yada. Frustrating!

Ideas?
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  #63  
Old June 6th, 2012, 10:15 AM
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Are you sure the leak isn't coming from the injectors themselves? The copper oring on the washer can leak....may look like its actually the valve cover. Seems unlikely if you put a new seal on and torqued it correctly that it would leak (unless the cover itself is warped or something).
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  #64  
Old June 6th, 2012, 10:44 AM
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Will check those, but it looks to new the cover seal. Going to recheck tonight. The cover may be warped.
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  #65  
Old June 19th, 2012, 10:47 PM
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Finally got around to checking the timing marks on the ol' 300 and everything was lined up exactly as it should be.

I wound the crank around to TDC (crank pulley lined up with the arrow on the casting), checked the flywheel through the wading plug hole, and verified that the injection pump was aligned by sliding a correctly sided drill bit into the pulley. All were exactly where they were supposed to be, no indications that anything is off. The only thing I couldn't check was the cam gear markings, but that involves more work than I had time for tonight.

Also on the list: 1) Test the injectors (anyone know a place to do this?), 2) Replace fuel lift pump (still waiting on this to arrive), 3) Conduct a combustion gas coolant leak test (ordered the kit tonight, should be here Thursday), 4) Bob's your uncle...

Not sure what else to check.

Jason,

I did check the injectors for leaks onto the block and it doesn't look like they are the source. Rocker cover did rock slightly when I laid it on the rocker body without the gasket, but not enough to concern me.
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  #66  
Old June 19th, 2012, 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 97XD View Post
Finally got around to checking the timing marks on the ol' 300 and everything was lined up exactly as it should be.

I wound the crank around to TDC (crank pulley lined up with the arrow on the casting), checked the flywheel through the wading plug hole, and verified that the injection pump was aligned by sliding a correctly sided drill bit into the pulley. All were exactly where they were supposed to be, no indications that anything is off. The only thing I couldn't check was the cam gear markings, but that involves more work than I had time for tonight.

Also on the list: 1) Test the injectors (anyone know a place to do this?), 2) Replace fuel lift pump (still waiting on this to arrive), 3) Conduct a combustion gas coolant leak test (ordered the kit tonight, should be here Thursday), 4) Bob's your uncle...

Not sure what else to check.

Jason,

I did check the injectors for leaks onto the block and it doesn't look like they are the source. Rocker cover did rock slightly when I laid it on the rocker body without the gasket, but not enough to concern me.
How did you check through the wading plug hole? Do you have a borescope?

Is the rocker cover cracked or anything? You said you replaced the seal, torqued to spec, and it's not warped...not sure what else could be. Will you be at HH with it?
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  #67  
Old June 19th, 2012, 11:23 PM
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Once the crank pulley mark is lined up with the cast arrow on the front of the timing belt cover, the flywheel will show a cut approximately 3/16" wide across the the thickness of the flywheel... You can see it with a flashlight.

http://www.fag.hiof.no/~frodehaa/pics/P1010021.jpg

The rocker cover is not cracked...it looks perfectly fine.

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  #68  
Old June 20th, 2012, 05:52 AM
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My 200 tdi had a leaking gasket as well.. Changed the gasket for one with copper ring and had the turbo rebuilt. The manifold had been flattened and the exhaust is a 3" from turbo to a fat exhaust box and out. I have a K&N Air filter and the stock 200/300tdi intercooler. The turbo is set to 1 bar and it has a balanced shaft/impeller and had been balanced in the casing as well.

Since everything is back together I notice a slight loss in power and more smoke (black). I changed the fuel filter to be on the safe side. The engine starts fine without glow plugs and might smoke a little while idling cold for a few minutes.

First- what amount of smoke is too much? Let's take as reference the amount of smoke while the engine starts up. (big puff of black smoke)

If I try to maintain 60-65mph it smokes continuously a little haze of blackish color. Remember where I live it's mountain road..

Second- is there a way to "reset" the parameter of the fuel injection pump? It's a second hand engine and with the years going by, how many blokes have play with it?? So if I want to fuel it up and play with the maximum power screw I would like to be sure it has not been tweak up already. The only tweak I did is rotating the diaphragm. I believe it release the extra fuel, with the surge of the turbo, earlier (clockwise) or later (anti-clockwise). It helped with the smoke but up to a point where the power is down even more and the black smoke is not reduce but on the contrary.

The fuel consumption is around 20mpg on normal use. The engine doesn't skip a beat and perform quite nicely (apart from the lack of power).

Third- I also have same thing with the rocker cover. It seems to leak on the injector side only. The gasket isn't new but still good and the cover doesn't have a outta normal warp. I will change the copper o-ring (just had them delivered) and make sure it's not the injector leaking. But usually a leak tends to go down and not up?

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  #69  
Old June 20th, 2012, 11:01 AM
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Are you guys just putting your foot to the floor when you're going uphill?

I'm part throttle all the time and almost never flat-footing it. If I am going uphill, I always downshift to the point where I don't have to press the accelerator all the way.

If I short shift and keep the accelerator to the floor, my truck makes smoke. I'm guessing that's due to the limitations of the injection pump. It basically has a simple equation: More accelerator = more fuel + more fuel depending on the turbo pressure.
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  #70  
Old June 20th, 2012, 02:22 PM
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I rarely push the pedal to the floor. if I do, it is to pass on a straight. I'm content just trying to hold speed on hills vs trying to pass.
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  #71  
Old June 20th, 2012, 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Are you guys just putting your foot to the floor when you're going uphill?

I'm part throttle all the time and almost never flat-footing it. If I am going uphill, I always downshift to the point where I don't have to press the accelerator all the way.

If I short shift and keep the accelerator to the floor, my truck makes smoke. I'm guessing that's due to the limitations of the injection pump. It basically has a simple equation: More accelerator = more fuel + more fuel depending on the turbo pressure.
It would do the pump is well tweeked previous wrecker...er... owner of said 90.
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  #72  
Old June 20th, 2012, 03:31 PM
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I rarely push the pedal to the floor. if I do, it is to pass on a straight. I'm content just trying to hold speed on hills vs trying to pass.
Wait...you've passed people in a Tdi???
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  #73  
Old June 20th, 2012, 03:33 PM
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I pass BMW's and Mercedes all the time on the highway. What's up with these people? Why do they buy those cars and then drive in the slow lane? It's like a rover than never sees dirt. It's just wrong.

BTW, flat footing long term is bad joo-joo. Your EGT would tell you the same. My EGT skyrockets when flooring it exponentially.
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  #74  
Old June 20th, 2012, 04:01 PM
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Not flooring it, anyway it's no use as it doesn't do much else then sucking more fuel & waisting it.

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  #75  
Old June 22nd, 2012, 02:22 PM
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Done a big clean up.. Took of the air filter and box out, took off the intercooler and pipework and cleaned everything. Change a silicon hose and add new clamp everywhere. Then I took the injectors out, cleaned them, changed the seal "o-ring" and put them back again. One injector had rusted in the head so my guess is that it wasn't sealed up properly. I turned the diaphragm counterclockwise about 1hrs less. On test driving it, it feels more powerful but still lack a bit on hill climbs. Less smoke and better acceleration. Anything I missed? Can the timing suddenly change?

Jeff

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  #76  
Old June 22nd, 2012, 07:16 PM
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Update,

Received the Combustion Leak Coolant Test Kit yesterday:
http://www.amazon.com/UVIEW-560000-C...tion+leak+test

Tested the truck today, and there was no change in fluid color (it stayed blue like it's supposed to do).

Checked the status of the lift pump by cracking the fuel bleed screw on top of the fuel filter housing and pumping the priming lever about 20 times...and nothing. No fuel came out, and there was no resistance on the lever while pumping either. I cranked the engine a couple times to make sure the pump lever that sits on the cam wasn't lifted up (it won't prime in that position), and tried to prime it again and nothing. If the lift pump is shot, then the injection pump has to work doubly hard (from what I've read) to both pull the fuel from the tank and through the filter as well as meter fuel to the injectors. This could the source of some if not all economy issues if there is any air getting in the line or the injection pump can't pull enough fuel.

So, it's a good possibility that the lift pump is shot. Another one should be here mid next week. I'll install it, run it and post back... At least I don't seem to have a blown head gasket.

Collin
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  #77  
Old June 23rd, 2012, 05:31 PM
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The lift pump's shot, but it won't make much if any difference in the economy in my experience.
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  #78  
Old June 28th, 2012, 05:18 PM
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Collin, any update? Did you replace the lift pump? Just to add insult to injury, here was my last fillup:

734 kilometers
= 455 miles
/ 19 gallons
= 23.95 mpg

I've been intentionally keeping it under 65mph as much as possible, and a lot of this has been highway driving lately...with the AC on about 1/3 of the time.

I'm sure you hate me now.

It's also worth noting that for the most part I only run Shell 45cetane "premium diesel" (or BP 47cetane when I can find it...there's a place in Tysons), and add in 8oz of the XPD in each tank (http://opti-lube.com/index.php/xpd-d...r-product.html). Not that this will drastically improve your economy, but I think the combo in my case gets me an extra 1-1.5mpg (or so is my theory).
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  #79  
Old June 28th, 2012, 06:47 PM
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The pump isn't here yet, but I'll keep everyone posted when it is installed.

Collin

P.S. Your avatar cracks me up!
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  #80  
Old June 29th, 2012, 04:08 AM
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Originally Posted by mikeslandrover View Post
It would do the pump is well tweeked previous wrecker...er... owner of said 90.
Oh and the turbo waste gate actuating rod is shortened too.

I've tried synthetic two stroke oil - 250 ml to 80 litres. The result was good... lower emissions smooth tick-over slight improvement in economy.

http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/f...additive_test/
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