3.9 D90 hard start - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old May 5th, 2016, 07:49 AM
CapeRoverKid
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3.9 D90 hard start

Very morning I try to start my 95 3.9 d90 but it won't start, if I turn the distributor I can get it to start very loaded up. The set the timing correctly it runs fine. Can drive it, shut it off and restart it during the day no problem. Swapped coil, fuel temp sensor, new plugs and coolant temp. Fresh gas. Wire and cap not too old. New fuel filter. The truck was sitting for five years before I bought it. All because of the fuel and main relays died. Need some help please.
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  #2  
Old May 5th, 2016, 08:11 AM
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Rover life of plug wires etc is much shorter than other vehicles. What's "not to old" in your view?
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  #3  
Old May 5th, 2016, 08:22 AM
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Robert Davis
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We had a similar issue with ours and installed a 1.7 KW starter and it starts fine now.
The old 1.2 KW starter was getting tired and the 1.7 spins it like a sewing machine.
Could be something else as well... am am not a V8 guy.
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  #4  
Old May 5th, 2016, 08:24 AM
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The wires are a year old.
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  #5  
Old May 5th, 2016, 08:34 AM
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Usual suspects in hard start conditions:
Vacuum leaks, Ignition amplifier module, coolant temp sensor air temp sensor, big hole in intake hose, poor tank venting.
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  #6  
Old May 6th, 2016, 08:49 AM
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Thanks, think the ignition module is bad.
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  #7  
Old May 6th, 2016, 09:05 AM
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I recently had a bizarre one to trouble shoot. The relatively new lucas rotor was carbon traced and shooting the signal down the distributor shaft.
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  #8  
Old May 6th, 2016, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
I recently had a bizarre one to trouble shoot. The relatively new lucas rotor was carbon traced and shooting the signal down the distributor shaft.
Well that must have been a fun one
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  #9  
Old May 6th, 2016, 10:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
We had a similar issue with ours and installed a 1.7 KW starter and it starts fine now.
The old 1.2 KW starter was getting tired and the 1.7 spins it like a sewing machine.
Could be something else as well... am am not a V8 guy.
Also forgot to mention, we changed the spark plugs and the cap rotor and wires.
Same issue.
The starter made all the difference.
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UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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  #10  
Old May 6th, 2016, 10:54 AM
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Recent non stop wet weather .. i used to have issues like this w/my D. Wd40 inside dizzy cap and a good wipe down got her going. Points to a bad cap/rotor/wires. may give it a try before getting more drastic.

~steve
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  #11  
Old May 6th, 2016, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cellulararrest View Post
Well that must have been a fun one
Yep, failed 11pm @ night @ a stoplight in rural Eastern North Carolina (Kinston).

Tow bill $270
Over nighted ignition amplifier from AB for Saturday delivery to Harkers Island, NC $135
Pulling distributor and installing new amp and re installing distributor
only to find out it still wouldn't start and continued trouble shooting 2hrs.

Look on my face when a $7 rotor from Advance Auto fixed it (that I should have had in my spares in the 22yr old truck)- well
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  #12  
Old May 6th, 2016, 12:06 PM
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The latest rotors that you get in "genuine" packaging are absolute garbage. The old style that had the brass potted into the rotor with epoxy are gone the way of the dodo and now you get a poorly made rotor that has the conductor molded in.
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  #13  
Old May 6th, 2016, 12:20 PM
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Does not Mallory or pertronix do them?
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  #14  
Old May 6th, 2016, 12:35 PM
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This is just making me feel better and better about my decision to go GM HEI. Might be time to switch the classic over too...
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  #15  
Old May 6th, 2016, 01:08 PM
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Sticky aicv.
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #16  
Old May 6th, 2016, 01:27 PM
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Check your connections to the coil, ign mod
Check for spark
Be sure you hear the relays trip and the pump prime when you turn the key
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  #17  
Old May 6th, 2016, 01:28 PM
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Folks still fretting over wet cap/rotor and their POS Lucas distributor? Go Mallory and don't look back.
http://youtu.be/4vyFJFWG4oE
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  #18  
Old May 6th, 2016, 01:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
The latest rotors that you get in "genuine" packaging are absolute garbage. The old style that had the brass potted into the rotor with epoxy are gone the way of the dodo and now you get a poorly made rotor that has the conductor molded in.
Agreed. That one was in service less than 90 days when it failed.
In fairness it was a genuine lucas but was not LR oem which may or may not be better or the same.
For what the baklite Lucas components with brass contacts cost, as opposed to the cheap blue plastic crap with aluminum contacts that out performs them, it's quite frustrating. Essentially, in this case you cannot pay up for quality.
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  #19  
Old May 6th, 2016, 04:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by down_shift View Post
Folks still fretting over wet cap/rotor and their POS Lucas distributor? Go Mallory and don't look back. http://youtu.be/4vyFJFWG4oE
See josh for a personal recommendation ...
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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