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  #21  
Old January 6th, 2011, 05:54 PM
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Brett
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Yes it was running poorly and in order to get to 35mph I had it floored

------ Follow up post added January 6th, 2011 07:29 PM ------

For those of you who wanted pictures here they are

http://s237.photobucket.com/albums/f...onr/red110-v8/
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  #22  
Old January 6th, 2011, 06:56 PM
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Charles Galpin
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I'd verify the choke is actually doing something, but my money is on it not getting choked properly. My 110 with the same 3.5 and cabs needed judicious use of the choke in cold weather. If it is the choke, then starting fluid should help. Other than putting oil in the carbs, I never had to do anything to them though so can't help you there.

But again since it's running poorly I'd check all the basics - make sure it has fuel and spark.
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  #23  
Old January 8th, 2011, 06:03 PM
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I am converting to an edlebrook manifold and carb, does anyone have details how they dealt with the 2 fuel lines that came off of the Su carbs? Is one a return line? Thanks

------ Follow up post added January 8th, 2011 07:04 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
I'd verify the choke is actually doing something, but my money is on it not getting choked properly. My 110 with the same 3.5 and cabs needed judicious use of the choke in cold weather. If it is the choke, then starting fluid should help. Other than putting oil in the carbs, I never had to do anything to them though so can't help you there.

But again since it's running poorly I'd check all the basics - make sure it has fuel and spark.
Choke was not working at all, so I tore it down and got a new manifold and carb.
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  #24  
Old January 9th, 2011, 11:31 AM
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Santiago Montenegro
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Yes, the passenger side one is a return line. Keep it, or the electric fuel pump will suffer.
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  #25  
Old January 9th, 2011, 02:29 PM
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David Short
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The Edelbrock 1404 Performer series carb does not have a provision for a return fuel line. I am not sure about the Holleys or other brands.

On my truck, I just plugged the return line. (After I discovered it leaking fuel everytime I hard stopped and fuel sloshed forward.)
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  #26  
Old January 9th, 2011, 06:25 PM
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J. Michael McCaig
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I too plugged the return line to the tank. The stock (Facet brand) fuel pump works fine with the Edelbrock carb. Photo shows how the linkage on my setup is attached. Other photo shows valve cover vents using the original flame traps etc.
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  #27  
Old January 9th, 2011, 11:10 PM
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John B.
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Forget the Edelbrock if you go off road. Any angle and they die. Nothing wrong with the stock carb as far as power goes. You probably just need to fix them...
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  #28  
Old January 10th, 2011, 08:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
Forget the Edelbrock if you go off road. Any angle and they die. Nothing wrong with the stock carb as far as power goes. You probably just need to fix them...
Holley has a carb that is designed to work at angles. Dont know if they are available in a small enough cfm for a completely stock, high mileage 3.5 but its worth a check.
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  #29  
Old January 10th, 2011, 09:29 AM
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Thanks for all the info, I order a 1404 Edlebrock as I will not be doing much offroading (atleast anytime soon), but mostly road trips and gravel/fireroads.

Thanks
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  #30  
Old January 10th, 2011, 11:26 AM
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I have had my truck on some pretty step angles and have had very little problem with stalling due to angle. I had the Twin carb set up prior to the Edelbrock and even in fine tune they don't hold a candle to the edelbrock carb and intake manifold. It's true you may have some issues on steep angles but they need to be pretty steep to be much of an issue and certainly not bad enough to forgo installing one.
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  #31  
Old January 10th, 2011, 05:26 PM
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How do you handle the coolant lines when converting to an edlebrook manifold? I understand the heater hose, I am just going to extend it and connect to the water pump. There looks to be 1 more connection that I need to make that is coming off the original manifold.

Thanks,

Brett
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  #32  
Old January 11th, 2011, 09:20 AM
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J. Michael McCaig
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I'm using the Buick 4bbl manifold but I imagine the connections are pretty much the same. On my manifold, one heater hose comes off the back of the manifold. The other heater hose connection comes off of the water pump on the right side. The left side connection on the back of the pump goes back in the manifold thru the thermostat housing. I had to drill and tap my original thermostat housing for a pipe nipple. It was cast for the connection but not drilled.
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  #33  
Old January 13th, 2011, 06:17 PM
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Well on Friday I am putting the engine back together, I will let everyone know how well it goes. Hopefully no new issues, from a car that supposedly had no known issue when purchased.

Thanks for everyones help!!
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  #34  
Old January 14th, 2011, 01:35 PM
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She seems to run great. Now to hook up the throttle cable and kick down.

Anyone have parts numbers for:

oil filter
plugs
spark plug cables
rotor
cap
and what type of oil and how much

Also anyone that did this conversion have a part number for the throttle cable bracket (or did you make your own, if so any pictures)

I will be selling the old manifold, carbs and air filter housing if interested let me know.

Thanks in advance.

Brett
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  #35  
Old January 14th, 2011, 04:06 PM
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J. Michael McCaig
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I use NAPA Gold 1068 (or 1452 for a bigger filter) oil filter and I use 10w40 in the winter and 20w50 in the summer, you will need around 7 qts of oil. Lot's of discussion on here about oil etc. I would go with genuine LR cap and rotor. I don't remember the spark plug #s but it's not hard to find.

Edit: Made my own cable bracket
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  #36  
Old February 19th, 2011, 02:18 PM
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I changed oil and added 7 quarts, but no oil is on the dip stick. Any suggestions? I am wondering if I have the original dip stick, does anyone have the length for the correct dip stick.

I also want to replace the rotor, cap and fuel filter does anyone have a part number?

Also looking for pictures of 315 v8 engines with Edlebrock carb to figure out how to run my vacuum lines.

Thanks in advance,

Brett
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  #37  
Old February 22nd, 2011, 07:00 AM
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anyone, anyone, I have looked in the manuals and cannot find any info.

Thanks
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  #38  
Old February 22nd, 2011, 08:59 AM
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Charles Galpin
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I honestly have no idea if this helps, but if the dipstick on your truck is the same position/orientation as my 1984 was you can see the angle it goes into the oil pan here

http://gallery.lhsw.com/view_photo.p...om&id=DSC02798

Maybe you can stick a longer rod (bare metal coat hanger maybe?) down the tube until it bottoms out and then see the difference in length and amount of oil on it to give you an indication of where you stand?

This one shows the length of mine

http://gallery.lhsw.com/view_photo.p...om&id=DSC02793

I don't have the truck anymore or i'd measure.

hth
charles
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  #39  
Old February 22nd, 2011, 09:24 AM
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David Short
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Oil Capacity = a lot - the dip stick per factory standard does not dip to the bottom of the pan but only dips into the top surface of the oil. I just filled my engine from a rebuild and it took every bit of 7 quarts and maybe a little more. (Almost 2 one gallon containers).

Vaccum lines - the power brake boost goes in the big port on the back of the carb. The distronbutor goes to one of the front ports (consult the Edelbrock manual for port for type of vacuum advance but I beleive it should go in the left port when facing the carb from the front.) If you have an LT95 vacuum assist center differential then that goes to the right vacuum port. Plug the rest and you are done.

The valve cover breather ports enter the air cleaner.

Unless you have some extra polution stuff on your rig - that should do you.
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  #40  
Old February 22nd, 2011, 05:43 PM
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Thanks for the info, I know it does not go to the bottom, I will add more as I only added seven (1.75 gallons), it will probably be close to 8 quarts that I will need.
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