200tdi with Low Oil Pressure once warm seeks advise. - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old October 7th, 2015, 02:04 PM
PNW110
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Aaron Lennox
1985 110 200tdi
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200tdi with Low Oil Pressure once warm seeks advise.

Hi everyone.
I just finished skimming 20 pages of previous posts but didn't find what I was looking for. Sorry if this is long winded, here goes.
My situation:
I recently purchased my 110, started tinkering, oil pressure light not working, switch was disconnected. Plugged it in and realized the warning light would come on once the truck warmed up.
Truck starts and runs well, puff of smoke on starting but none there after, not losing oil or coolant as far as I can tell and no cross contamination visible between the two. The truck has shown 30-35 psi at startup/cold idle but as it warms up this drops to 7-10psi (at idle). Once warmed up I have been seeing about 30psi at operating temperature. The truck has never run hot.
The other night heading home at sustained highway speed I watched the oil pressure slowly drop to below 20psi, when I hit a red light it was very low at idle.
Check oil level the next morning, it was normal. Started it up for a minute, cold oil pressure was back 35psi. I have not driven it again.

What I've done so far since discovering the low oil pressure:
-Switch the oil pressure switch= no change
-Install and oil pressure gauge= alarming numbers
-Drop oil pan looking for bearing fragments ect= none found
-Change oil for fresh 15-40w plus filter=no change
-Do compression check= 400psi +/-5psi all cylinders


What to investigate next?
-I have read about the cam bearing shifting in the 200tdi exposing the oil passage and causing low oil pressure at idle.
Fact or fiction- can you inspect this cam bearing in a 200tdi through an inspection plate in the side of the block? If so anyone have pictures or description on how to do it?
-I'm going to drain/inspect the oil again.
-Drop the oil pan and remove and inspect oil pump. Maybe replace it.

Any ideas, experience and or instructions on further trouble shooting would be great.
Thank you.
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  #2  
Old October 7th, 2015, 02:50 PM
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Aaron Lennox
1985 110 200tdi
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Location: Port Townsend, WA, USA
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Here are a couple of pictures of the truck.
Click image for larger version

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  #3  
Old October 7th, 2015, 02:58 PM
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Jeff Labbé
110 Ex-Mod FFR 200tdi
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Have you check the oil pump? While having the sump out? Measure it accordingly with the manual. Might getting worn. By the way, what's the colour name of your 110?
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  #4  
Old October 7th, 2015, 03:21 PM
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1of40
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Damn, sorry to hear about this. Just an FYI if you decide to replace the OP. I needed to replace my OP when doing my swap because a hole had worn through the screen. Very odd. The pump shaft I received with the pump did not fit correctly in my 200 so I ended up re-using the original shaft on the new OP.

Should you go this route of changing your OP you might mention this to the vendor in case there is a VIN difference I wasn't aware of myself. Might keep the dog from getting kicked for no apparent reason.
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  #5  
Old October 7th, 2015, 03:52 PM
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Aaron Lennox
1985 110 200tdi
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CNDrover- I didn't check the pump first time around as everything I read talked about how robust they are. With my compression readings good I'm now going to have to look more closely at the pump.
Sorry, I'm not sure what the colour is called, I pulled a colour chart to try to get the code but could tell which sample matched. It's a 1985 colour if that helps.

1of40- Thanks for the heads-up on the oil pump fitment issue. This motor is not original to the truck but hopefully the engine number can confirm compatibility on a new oil pump
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  #6  
Old October 7th, 2015, 04:20 PM
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Skinny Pete
'84 90 "Yamelo"/'88 RRC "Chewbacca"
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Loss of oil pressure in LR 4 cylinder engines is usually due to wear in the main and rod bearings. As these wear, oil pressure goes down. The oil pump and cam bearings go next.

With any engine, low oil pressure will show first @ idle. However, it is less of a cause for concenr at these low speeds and more so at higher RPMs.

Good rule of thumb for most modern engines is 10 psi per 1000 rpm.

Not sure of the specs on a 200tdi but the 300tdi runs a little lower OP than the earlier 4 cyl motors.

200tdi oil pump is about $100. They can be rebuilt pretty easily.
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Present:
1960 SII 109"- "Red Square"
1984 90 Tdi- "Yamelo"
1988 RRC- "Chewbacca"
1987 RRC- "Chewy 2"
2008 RRS SC- "The Supersofa"

Past:
1959 SII 88"- "The Little Green Beastie" last seen in NY
1972 SIII 88"- "GreenHELL" now in NC
1988 90 "Eric the Half a Bee" half a truck, sold for parts
1991 RRC- never got a name- long since recycled
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  #7  
Old October 7th, 2015, 05:13 PM
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Not the best news you've ever received today I'm sure but if you look at it this way; at least there is a community here that can help you get to higher ground.

The number of 200's out there is really rising quickly given all the ROW imports that eventually need something more than what they arrived with. You can be sure you are not the first or the last to have to cross this bridge.

I lucked out and got real sound advice from Skinny Pete on the front end of my swap. We've taken a much deeper dive than I imagined and we've come across some ugly stuff at times but based on what I'm seeing on this forum (every week now) his guidance along the way has been effn spot on.
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  #8  
Old October 7th, 2015, 05:59 PM
PNW110
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Aaron Lennox
1985 110 200tdi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching View Post
Loss of oil pressure in LR 4 cylinder engines is usually due to wear in the main and rod bearings. As these wear, oil pressure goes down. The oil pump and cam bearings go next.

With any engine, low oil pressure will show first @ idle. However, it is less of a cause for concenr at these low speeds and more so at higher RPMs.

Good rule of thumb for most modern engines is 10 psi per 1000 rpm.

Not sure of the specs on a 200tdi but the 300tdi runs a little lower OP than the earlier 4 cyl motors.

200tdi oil pump is about $100. They can be rebuilt pretty easily.
Thanks for this information.
-Do you know if there's a way to check that rear cam bearing to see if it has shifted without pulling the motor and stripping it down?
-Any non-invasive way to investigate wear on the main and rod bearings?
-I'm going to pull the oil pump and further examine it, I'll likely replace it as a precautionary measure.

Thanks again for all the responses.
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  #9  
Old October 7th, 2015, 06:49 PM
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Pablo Cocito
1987 Tithonus 110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PNW110 View Post
Thanks for this information.
-Do you know if there's a way to check that rear cam bearing to see if it has shifted without pulling the motor and stripping it down?
-Any non-invasive way to investigate wear on the main and rod bearings?
-I'm going to pull the oil pump and further examine it, I'll likely replace it as a precautionary measure.

Thanks again for all the responses.
You might be able to see that cam bearing if you take the fuel lift pump out. Good luck
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  #10  
Old October 7th, 2015, 07:38 PM
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Ren Ching
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PNW110 View Post
Thanks for this information.
-Do you know if there's a way to check that rear cam bearing to see if it has shifted without pulling the motor and stripping it down?
-Any non-invasive way to investigate wear on the main and rod bearings?
-I'm going to pull the oil pump and further examine it, I'll likely replace it as a precautionary measure.

Thanks again for all the responses.
No, no, and no. Cam bearing should be the least of your concerns.

Pull the bottom end and look at the bearings. Pull the head, etc. Change everything that is out of spec as it won't magically get better with use.

Or, just run it on a pallet and see if you like how it goes. If all is good, do the timing belt and rear main seal.
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Present:
1960 SII 109"- "Red Square"
1984 90 Tdi- "Yamelo"
1988 RRC- "Chewbacca"
1987 RRC- "Chewy 2"
2008 RRS SC- "The Supersofa"

Past:
1959 SII 88"- "The Little Green Beastie" last seen in NY
1972 SIII 88"- "GreenHELL" now in NC
1988 90 "Eric the Half a Bee" half a truck, sold for parts
1991 RRC- never got a name- long since recycled
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  #11  
Old October 7th, 2015, 07:43 PM
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John B.
1991 Defender 90, 200TDI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching View Post
Pull the bottom end and look at the bearings. Pull the head, etc. Change everything that is out of spec as it won't magically get better with use. .
Not possible to look at the bearings in a 200TDI with the engine in the vehicle.... The ladder frame is in the way and it is bolted to the clutch housing.
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  #12  
Old October 7th, 2015, 09:04 PM
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Ren Ching
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Skinny Pete
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Yes, that is correct.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
Not possible to look at the bearings in a 200TDI with the engine in the vehicle.... The ladder frame is in the way and it is bolted to the clutch housing.
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Present:
1960 SII 109"- "Red Square"
1984 90 Tdi- "Yamelo"
1988 RRC- "Chewbacca"
1987 RRC- "Chewy 2"
2008 RRS SC- "The Supersofa"

Past:
1959 SII 88"- "The Little Green Beastie" last seen in NY
1972 SIII 88"- "GreenHELL" now in NC
1988 90 "Eric the Half a Bee" half a truck, sold for parts
1991 RRC- never got a name- long since recycled
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  #13  
Old October 7th, 2015, 09:14 PM
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John B.
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I guess what I'm getting at... If you pull the engine, and the flywheel and the clutch housing and the ladder frame and the bearings and the head.... you might as well spend ten more minutes and finish rebuilding the whole engine.

I think the earlier advice to pull the oil pump (assuming it can be removed with the ladder frame in place) and checking it can't hurt as it would be fairly easy. If it is anything else like main bearings or shifted cam bearings, you might as well commit and rebuild the whole thing.
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  #14  
Old October 7th, 2015, 09:18 PM
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What about the oil pressure relief valve spring?
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