200tdi turbo rebuild experience - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old February 28th, 2012, 01:05 PM
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Pierre Jourda
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200tdi turbo rebuild experience

Has anyone out there ever rebuilt a 200tdi turbo? Thinking about taking it on myself. Curious about any experiences. Also, I understand that T25 turbos can have a carbon or a dynamic seal, depending on the year. Any thoughts on which came with 200tdi? Thanks much.
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  #2  
Old February 28th, 2012, 02:33 PM
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Take it to a shop ! More know how, parts and tools than you can imagine ...

My .02$

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  #3  
Old February 28th, 2012, 03:24 PM
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The thing that you cannot do at home is balance the turbo. That alone is reason enough to send it out.
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  #4  
Old February 28th, 2012, 11:37 PM
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Ed (sonoronos) should chime in on this...we just had a campfire chat about this over the weekend. He's done several rebuilds.
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  #5  
Old February 29th, 2012, 06:47 AM
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Tom Rowe
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I've rebuilt T25's, though not from Land Rovers.
You can send out just the compressor wheel and turbine wheel/shaft for balancing.
I prefer blasting all the parts (except the shaft) after degreasing, but I guess it's not required.
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  #6  
Old March 1st, 2012, 02:55 PM
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http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f48/ja...ide-92448.html

It's not rocket science. Everything short of balancing you can do yourself, and the kit is available off ebay for $35.00. Balancing costs $50 at your local diesel shop. Assuming your wheels are clean and old bearings are not melted out, 99 times/100 you do NOT need to rebalance the turbo.

There are usually two options for these old turbos: standard thrust bearing or 360 degree.

You do not need a 360 degree thrust washer unless you are planning to push major boost. These things are designed for people who are shooting 1.5 bar+ out of turbos and the T2* shaft turbos are way out of their efficient range at that level. Simple story: Don't bother with the 360 degree thrust washer for your old diesel lump.

Before you rebuild your turbo, spin it by hand. If you hear "ringing" or the blades look badly chewed up this means that the turbo has swallowed something very bad or the bearing is so far gone that the blades have been ground away. In this case you need a replacement impeller and rebalance. It may be cheaper to just buy a used replacement turbo. Usually if the blade is hitting the housing this is from a low/no oil condition leading the shaft to overheat, which melt out the fragile bronze bushings. All turbos I have seen like this have telltale bluing on the turbo shaft showing overheating due to low/no oil.

If the turbo spins and the fins are in good condition and no noise is present then you just do as the above link shows you.

Replace all parts. Before removing the nut from the compressor wheel, scribe a mark (with a carbide scribe) between the nut and wheel/shaft. Count the number of threads exposed. As long as you line up the scribe mark on the nut with the wheel upon reassembly, 99 times/100 you have maintained the balance of the turbo.

If you are truly paranoid, then pay to have the diesel shop balance for you. Keep in mind these guys are used to balancing enormous diesel turbos the size of watermelons pushing over 500lb/m of hot air and will be scratching their heads wondering why you are asking to balance a tiny wheel smaller than your fist. But whatever

You can sandblast the turbo housings or whatever, but you must VERY carefully clean out all media. Oil film bearings do not like abrasive blast media.

Best not to clean without anything but a bath in solvent and a brush. The most important part is to make sure the interface between the hot side and cold side are clean for reassembly. Use antisieze on every bolt/nut - except for the wheelshaft - keep that perfectly clean and dry before torquing to spec.

The other place to be careful about is the wastegate actuator flap. In some turbos this will become sticky due to age/wear. Since the wastegate is integrated in our turbos, you will see a small hole inside the hotside wheel. If your EGTs have been way too high due to amateur Tdi hotrodding, your hotside can crack and a fissure will appear next to the wastegate hole. If you see any of these cracks and fissures, then you must replace the turbo.

Once reassembled, then you will "clock" the turbo to the correct position. This involves loosening the bolts around the periphery of the cold side of the turbo. The hotside only has one orientation. Once the coldside is clocked so that the output is pointing in the right direction, torque down the bolts to spec and voila you are done.

I am also a fan of pre-oiling the turbo before use. This is done by enabling the fuel cutoff solenoid and using the starter motor to pump oil through the system.
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  #7  
Old March 1st, 2012, 03:51 PM
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Pierre Jourda
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Thanks very much to all for the input here, and to Ed in particular. I don't generally like paying anyone to do anything for my rig, so I might just attempt this. Again, very helpful thank you.
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  #8  
Old March 1st, 2012, 03:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by piekas View Post
Thanks very much to all for the input here, and to Ed in particular. I don't generally like paying anyone to do anything for my rig, so I might just attempt this. Again, very helpful thank you.
I say do it. I plan to do mine eventually, but of course I will sucker Ed into assisting since he's local to me.
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  #9  
Old March 2nd, 2012, 06:09 AM
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Tom Rowe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Assuming your wheels are clean and old bearings are not melted out, 99 times/100 you do NOT need to rebalance the turbo.
Of the 100's of turbos I've rebuilt probably fewer than 10 didn't need balancing.
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  #10  
Old March 2nd, 2012, 10:53 AM
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Tom has a lot more experience than me at this. I definitely have not rebuilt anywhere near as many turbos as he has.

From my perspective it's unnecessary assuming the wheels are in good condition. From Tom's perspective it's a necessity. Either way, it definitely is cheaper in the end to just rebuild it yourself - even taking into account the cost of balancing.
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  #11  
Old March 3rd, 2012, 09:28 AM
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I can't honestly say how they'd have done not being balanced, but we always checked them on the balancer and they were off, some more than others.
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  #12  
Old January 18th, 2016, 09:56 AM
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Neil Steinhagen
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Concerning the wastegate, how freely should this move? I have my turbo off and the wastegate was very difficult to move (required tapping with a hammer).

I have not run the engine yet, just trying to clock the turbo to get it past the steering shaft (Disco 200Tdi into a LHD).

Also, the small c-clip for the wastegate arm just went into lower orbit...anyone know a part number for this?

Thanks.
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  #13  
Old January 18th, 2016, 10:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steinhnj View Post
Concerning the wastegate, how freely should this move? I have my turbo off and the wastegate was very difficult to move (required tapping with a hammer).

I have not run the engine yet, just trying to clock the turbo to get it past the steering shaft (Disco 200Tdi into a LHD).

Also, the small c-clip for the wastegate arm just went into lower orbit...anyone know a part number for this?

Thanks.
It should move freely.

It is just a normal clip. Any auto or industrial store.
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  #14  
Old January 18th, 2016, 10:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
The thing that you cannot do at home is balance the turbo. That alone is reason enough to send it out.
If you are just changing seals and bearings, then mark the positions of the turbine and compressor to each other. As long as they go back in the same orientation, you should not be changing the balance.

It is very straightforward to change the bearings and seals.
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  #15  
Old January 18th, 2016, 04:52 PM
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I've gone from requiring a gentle hammer tap to move the wastewater to now moving by hand but it still seems a little tight to qualify for "move freely".

How free is freely? I have it soaking in brake cleaner for overnight to free it up some moe. PB Blaster overnight?
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  #16  
Old January 18th, 2016, 05:51 PM
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I think you want it pretty loose. The actuator does not have a lot of force.
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  #17  
Old January 18th, 2016, 11:12 PM
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It should open and close by its own weight. Like, very very loose.

Its not uncommon to have sticky wastegates....just years and years of oil and carbon are gumming it up.
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  #18  
Old March 13th, 2016, 10:35 PM
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Turbo Rebuild Kit Land Rover with Garrett Turbo TBO242 TBO243 TBO246 709143 0001 | eBay

A few questions:

In the link above, is that something I can use to rebuild the turbo for Defender 200TDI?

I am also thinking about buying the center section only. Where would I source the gaskets and Oring for the turbo housing and such?

Any tips loosening the nuts and bolts on turbo manifolds? I have been soaking the bolts and nuts with Kroil.

Did you guys reuse the bolts and nuts?

Can I buy the actuators separately?

Thank you.
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  #19  
Old March 14th, 2016, 08:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DailyDrivenDefende View Post
Turbo Rebuild Kit Land Rover with Garrett Turbo TBO242 TBO243 TBO246 709143 0001 | eBay A few questions: In the link above, is that something I can use to rebuild the turbo for Defender 200TDI? I am also thinking about buying the center section only. Where would I source the gaskets and Oring for the turbo housing and such? Any tips loosening the nuts and bolts on turbo manifolds? I have been soaking the bolts and nuts with Kroil. Did you guys reuse the bolts and nuts? Can I buy the actuators separately? Thank you.
The bolts on mine sheared. Soaked them for days but their time was up.
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  #20  
Old March 14th, 2016, 09:40 AM
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kroil and heat and impact. impacts will break things loose with the hammer action that you will break off using straight pulls. Kroil is great but you have to use heat with it. I soak things in advance. Come back and heat them up till glowing, Then wack the head with a hammer, and then cool it down with shots of kroil till it stops smoking and then use the impact. works the majority of the time.
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