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  #21  
Old May 18th, 2012, 11:34 AM
Naplm00
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1983 110 200tdi 3 door soft top
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meatblanket View Post
As far as I can tell the only difference between what you've done there from the OEM 200tdi arrangement is that you're running the return back up to the filter before sending it back to the tank.

It seems unnecessarily complicated and leaves me wondering what advantage there might be in doing it that way.
unknown as well, this was the way my truck was plumbed when i got it. When i put the new engine in I redid it the same way
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  #22  
Old May 18th, 2012, 12:27 PM
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It is that way on a NA engine. It needs to be the other way for the TDI or else air cannot get out of the system...
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  #23  
Old May 18th, 2012, 03:33 PM
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Matt - that fron Banjo bolt on the injector (line 3)- any idea what size banjo that is? The fittings on my lines are too big for that hole. I'll have to cut those off, and use a Banjo in its place (or just a smaller fitting).

Thing is I have no idea what size that is and no body stocks metric stuff around here
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  #24  
Old May 18th, 2012, 04:11 PM
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Matthew
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I used 3/8 ID plastic fuel line available at most napa stores. It was a pain in the ass to keep from leaking since it is just to big, i used a heat gun to melt it on.

the plastic fuel hose i found was only avail in 25 foot pieces so ive got some extra if you want, ive got both 3/8 and 5/16 ID

next time i would use barbed fittings on the filterhead and some parts unlimited blue urethane fuel hose. It is easier to cut, heat resistant, abrasion resistant, see through and flexible down to -65 F. Used to use it all the time on snowmobiles and motorcycles

tldr: banjo is just smaller than 3/8
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  #25  
Old May 18th, 2012, 11:15 PM
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I think you mean OD as it is tubing...
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  #26  
Old May 19th, 2012, 12:33 AM
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im going to get up like 9-10 and head down.
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  #27  
Old May 19th, 2012, 08:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ini88
im going to get up like 9-10 and head down.
Sounds good. I'm going to go hunt round for metric fittings!
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  #28  
Old May 20th, 2012, 11:06 AM
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200tdi dipstick and heater hoses

Hey guys, can anyone with a 200tdi measure their dipstick (doesn't that sound great).


My engine is missing its and before I use my 2.5td one I want to make sure it isn't to long or too short.


Also - does anyone have a picture of the correct orientation of the heater hoses going in and out of the blower? I want to make sure I hooked them up in the right order. I have the return to the thermostat hooked up to the back connection and the one from the head to the front connection
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  #29  
Old May 21st, 2012, 07:25 PM
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Should really be the other way, but the difference is probably not measurable.
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  #30  
Old May 21st, 2012, 08:13 PM
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It's easy enough to swap? Do you have a pic?
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  #31  
Old May 22nd, 2012, 06:19 PM
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Mike Simpson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bossman429 View Post
My engine is missing its and before I use my 2.5td one I want to make sure it isn't to long or too short.
Dipsticks for 2.5td and 200tdi are the same part number, ETC7867.
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  #32  
Old May 22nd, 2012, 09:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meatblanket View Post
Dipsticks for 2.5td and 200tdi are the same part number, ETC7867.

Thanks - took almost 8 qts to get it to show in the normal range of the dipstick

That being said it was a totally empty engine





On another note. Got her fired up today! Still have to hook up the intercooler and air filter assembly but she runs!!
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  #33  
Old May 23rd, 2012, 06:30 PM
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6.85 liters of oil with filter for a change. A dry engine and a dry oil cooler will take.more
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  #34  
Old May 24th, 2012, 12:25 PM
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Ok - new issue. I had the truck idling for about 10 minutes. Once I bypassed my heater box b/c it developed a leak the engine was running leak free

However, the temp gauge isn't moving much at all. the engine was warm to the touch (not hot, i could hold my hand on the head or rad lines indeff. but it was i'd say 110ish degrees. The temp guage would come up ever so slightly but still not even make it into the white. I disconnected the sensor and the guage then wouldn't move at all. I also swapped the sensor from the old engine and same thing, it would come up just a hair but not even get into the white

I had it running with the coolant tank top off to burp it, and then ran with it on.. no change. There is coolant where the sensor is b/c when I swapped it it leaked out, and the coolant was warm (but by no means hot).

I feel coolant in all the hoses, and the fan is blowing warm air so that tells me its circulating ok.

Am I missing something? Maybe its just running that cool? My old engine ran very cool, but it would at least creep into the white a little after idling for 10 minutes on a 70 degree day.

I dont want to start driving it without knowing my temp guage is working.


Also - for the oil pressure guage, any way to check if that works? The light isn't coming on at all, even when I disconnect the sensor. Should it be coming on when the sensor is disconnected? Thats another thing I want to make sure is functioning properly b4 I start driving.
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  #35  
Old May 24th, 2012, 12:43 PM
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It won't warm up idling. You need to drive it. Check for any heat on the upper rad hose to see if the thermostat is leaking.

You should never idle a cold diesel as it is bad for the engine.
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  #36  
Old May 24th, 2012, 01:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
It won't warm up idling. You need to drive it. Check for any heat on the upper rad hose to see if the thermostat is leaking.

You should never idle a cold diesel as it is bad for the engine.

thanks - normally I warm any car up by just driving it, but i was hoping just to make sure the important guages are working before taking it out.

Any idea about the oil pressure light? Would that come on if the sensor was disconnected?
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  #37  
Old May 24th, 2012, 01:32 PM
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The light should come on with the ignition on and the engine off, then go out once running. If it does not do that, something is wrong.

If you care about engine temperature, buy a VDO gauge. $35 for a gauge and sensor that work properly and look much better.... All of the stock gauges are junk.
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  #38  
Old May 24th, 2012, 02:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
The light should come on with the ignition on and the engine off, then go out once running. If it does not do that, something is wrong.

If you care about engine temperature, buy a VDO gauge. $35 for a gauge and sensor that work properly and look much better.... All of the stock gauges are junk.

Oil press light comes on/off as you described, so I'll assume its ok
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  #39  
Old May 24th, 2012, 02:48 PM
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Mike Hammond
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200tdi's will cool down if left idling but don't.
With a good condition radiator the bottom hose will stay pretty cool during normal running around.
Oil pressure light should be on with the ignition on but go out as soon as the engine fires.
If it lights up when you're driving the engine is probably toast.
As an aside I added 250 ml of 2 stroke engine oil to the last tankful of diesel (80 litres), seems to have smoothed the engine and the particulates were 0.5% during the MOT test last week. Well pleased.
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  #40  
Old May 27th, 2012, 11:45 PM
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So we've driven the truck about 100 miles. Some local and a good stint or two on the highway at 60-65. It runs great. But there is a very annoying whistle as the revs increase under load. It seems like the whistle is getting louder the more it's driven. I assume this is related to boost Any idea what's causing this and how to fix? I checked and all inter cooler pipes and connections seem air tight. I can make it whistle a little by revving without load but it's much more faint and only at higher Rpms. Under load it whistles from what feels like 2krpms and up
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