200tdi rear crank seal - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old January 12th, 2016, 08:23 AM
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200tdi rear crank seal

Attempt number 2 on this

I've done a bunch of searching, but what are the biggest tricks to get this not to leak?

Just did it 2 weeks ago and it leaked like a sieve

Pulled the engine this time, and it seemed to be looking from the metal to metal contact where the seal meets the flywheel housing. I've read to put sealant in there, whats the best to use?

also wondering if i need anything on the paper gasket that goes between the block and the flywheel housing?

Thanks
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  #2  
Old January 12th, 2016, 09:11 AM
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Neil Steinhagen
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I am doing mine tonight, so I'm no expert. This is based on the preparation I've done though:

1. When you did the conversion, did you add the lower four bolts to the flywheel housing? Not doing this may cause the seal to fail, but I would think that it would fail over time, not immediately.
2. Are you using a Dowty seal (Teflon edge)?
3. Do you have the special tool 18G 1344, or are you using the plastic protector from the seal to install it?

Have you watched this video:
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  #3  
Old January 12th, 2016, 09:31 AM
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I don't know.

All I can say is that my seal failed as well.

Two things that I will do differently next time:
1. I will clean the crankshaft mating face of all oil and install the teflon seal perfectly dry.
2. I will make sure that the seal is driven in perfectly flat, as any kind of non-flat installation will cause a leak.

I think the preferred method is actually to install the seal into the backing plate first, then installing the backing plate onto the engine, but that is out of the question for me. I'll probably change my mind if it leaks a second time...

------ Follow up post added January 12th, 2016 09:35 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by tomaco1 View Post
also wondering if i need anything on the paper gasket that goes between the block and the flywheel housing?
I used silicone gasket maker on that paper gasket that goes between the block and flywheel housing....no leaks from there for me.

Just make sure you smear paper gasket with a small amount, like spreading butter on toast. Don't just run a fat bead, otherwise it will squeeze out everywhere.
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  #4  
Old January 12th, 2016, 10:12 AM
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thanks
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  #5  
Old January 12th, 2016, 10:17 AM
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I am going to use Hylomar Blue on the paper gasket.
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  #6  
Old January 12th, 2016, 11:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Two things that I will do differently next time:
1. I will clean the crankshaft mating face of all oil and install the teflon seal perfectly dry.
2. I will make sure that the seal is driven in perfectly flat, as any kind of non-flat installation will cause a leak.

I think the preferred method is actually to install the seal into the backing plate first, then installing the backing plate onto the engine, but that is out of the question for me. I'll probably change my mind if it leaks a second time...
I would suggest using Loctite 518 on the perimeter of the seal. I installed mine dry and it sealed nicely for about 15,000 miles or so and then began leaking. I discovered that the seal was moving very slightly in the flywheel housing and oil was coming around the outside perimeter of the seal. Repaired with new seal using some Loctite 518 and all is good.

Moral to the story is don't trust that green shit on the seal to do anything. It may or may not.
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  #7  
Old January 12th, 2016, 11:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meatblanket View Post
I would suggest using Loctite 518 on the perimeter of the seal. I installed mine dry and it sealed nicely for about 15,000 miles or so and then began leaking. I discovered that the seal was moving very slightly in the flywheel housing and oil was coming around the outside perimeter of the seal. Repaired with new seal using some Loctite 518 and all is good.

Moral to the story is don't trust that green shit on the seal to do anything. It may or may not.
Good to know! That was very similar to my experience...it was leak free for months before it started leaking again.
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  #8  
Old January 12th, 2016, 12:48 PM
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Did you guys drill out the four holes on the lower bell housing cover, countersink and use bolts to secure the lower portion of the bell housing cover to the block?
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  #9  
Old January 12th, 2016, 01:05 PM
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In my case it wasn't necessary as I had all the proper Defender parts.
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  #10  
Old January 12th, 2016, 01:17 PM
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I also have a true Defender 200tdi and all 4 bolts, bolt holes / etc at the bottom of the block / bellhousing were installed as from the factory.
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  #11  
Old February 12th, 2016, 06:24 PM
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Truck is back on the road, apparently leak free. Second time was the charm, thanks for all the advice.
All my fault, why'll the teacher that did it builds race cars, he had no idea what a PIA the rear main can be on a Land Rover.

Its great to be driving it. Was off the road way too long
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  #12  
Old February 13th, 2016, 11:47 PM
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How did you guys drive this seal in?
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  #13  
Old February 14th, 2016, 07:15 AM
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Quart size paint can and hammer. Work your way around/back and forth to keep things square. I did it with fly housing off block.
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  #14  
Old February 14th, 2016, 07:27 AM
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Mine was done the same way, except he didn't use a paint can. I think we used an old starter body
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  #15  
Old February 14th, 2016, 11:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steinhnj View Post
Did you guys drill out the four holes on the lower bell housing cover, countersink and use bolts to secure the lower portion of the bell housing cover to the block?


Bolts like this.....for info.....(only applicable to Disco 200tdi's going onto an LT77 box)

https://www.steveparkers.com/product...-in-90-110-s3/

You can read the descriptive below the picture.









All the best




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  #16  
Old February 17th, 2016, 10:08 AM
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I used a heavy duty steel cup to pound mine in, I also put a speedi sleeve on my crank to cover any gouges in the crank face. I used a rubber non-teflon seal that had a retaining spring.

I used Honda bond HT to install the seal on the outer edge and engine moly assembly lube on the crank face and packed the seal lip.

Been about 20k with no leaks but as the thread states YMMV and seal type.
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  #17  
Old February 17th, 2016, 10:13 AM
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I'm starting to wonder how many of these seal leaks are not at the lip of the seal, but where the seal is mated to the plate...
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