200tdi / LT77 clutch issue - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old May 9th, 2012, 06:37 PM
kjva
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Ken Jackson
1985 110 Wagon
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200tdi / LT77 clutch issue

Have a 110 with a 200tdi LT77, fitted a new clutch and operating arm with the motor. Has run fine for a good while.
Last week it became more difficult to impossible to select the gears. Fitted a new clutch master / slave cylinder and still have the same problem. Have tried various positions on the master cyl push rod but it makes no diffrence.
If I put it in gear with the engine off it, the clutch engages when only about 1/2 an inch from the floor.
Bled it and the pedal is firm.
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  #2  
Old May 9th, 2012, 08:28 PM
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jayz
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Jason Zolezzi
85 200tdi 110
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Interested to see if you get any good leads on the problem. I am in the same boat
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  #3  
Old May 9th, 2012, 11:45 PM
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John B.
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Sounds like air in the system or not adjusted properly.
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  #4  
Old May 11th, 2012, 05:26 PM
kjva
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Ken Jackson
1985 110 Wagon
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We have bled the clutch numerous times with no sign of air and the pedal pressure is firm. Have adjusted the slave cylinder push rod to both the shortest and longest positions and in the middle the result is the same. Can not engage the gears with the engine running, and when 1st is selected with the engine off the clutch engages when the pedal is just off the floor no matter what the position is on the master cyl push rod. Is there any other adjustment. The pedal is not touching the bolt at the rear of the tower.
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  #5  
Old May 11th, 2012, 06:16 PM
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John B.
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The pedal is set at the correct height with the bolt as per the manual? The free play is set on the rod as per the manual? You have a solid pedal for the full travel? If all of that is good, there is a problem with the clutch itself.
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  #6  
Old May 12th, 2012, 09:25 AM
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Mike Simpson
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It's likely that you still have air in the line. I noticed a similar issue with mine. The pedal felt nice and firm, but yet there was still air in the line. If you still have the return spring on the pedal, then you might try removing that and it will allow you to have a better feel for what's really going on with the m/c.

I would alter your bleeding technique and keep working at it. Once you get it so that the clutch works, you'll find that the last of the air will work its way out when you're driving it.

I was using a Motive Power bleeder, and you would think that would make it a piece of cake-- but it's a tough system to bleed thoroughly.
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  #7  
Old May 12th, 2012, 09:28 AM
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John
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Is the slave oriented correctly??

The bleed valve should be on top.
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  #8  
Old May 12th, 2012, 02:18 PM
kjva
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Ken Jackson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nikojo View Post
Is the slave oriented correctly??

The bleed valve should be on top.
Thanks great point the slave is the wrong orientation, bleed valve is pointing down.

------ Follow up post added May 12th, 2012 02:20 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by meatblanket View Post
It's likely that you still have air in the line. I noticed a similar issue with mine. The pedal felt nice and firm, but yet there was still air in the line. If you still have the return spring on the pedal, then you might try removing that and it will allow you to have a better feel for what's really going on with the m/c.

I would alter your bleeding technique and keep working at it. Once you get it so that the clutch works, you'll find that the last of the air will work its way out when you're driving it.

I was using a Motive Power bleeder, and you would think that would make it a piece of cake-- but it's a tough system to bleed thoroughly.
Thanks will switch the slave then remove the spring from the pedal
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  #9  
Old May 13th, 2012, 07:50 AM
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John B.
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If you are pulling the slave, bleed it while out and hanging down. Just open the nipple and let gravity do the work.
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  #10  
Old May 17th, 2012, 03:28 PM
kjva
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Ken Jackson
1985 110 Wagon
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Have rotated the the slave cyl and re-bled several times with no sign of air. Removed the return spring and the pedal is firm.
It is not possible to engage 1st gear except by turning of the engine. The clutch engages half and inch from the floor and it will drive. The gearchange is stiff but driveable.
A friend in the UK had a 200tdi disco with the same issue. In the end he put in a new pressure plate which cured the problem. He said there was no difference between the thickness of the old a new plates and the finger height. Any other suggestions before I pull the gearbox ?.
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  #11  
Old May 17th, 2012, 04:24 PM
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John B.
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Yep, sounds like the problem in in the clutch assembly itself.
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  #12  
Old May 29th, 2012, 10:41 PM
kjva
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Ken Jackson
1985 110 Wagon
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The throwout bearing was bad. Lasted around 2K miles
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