200tdi idle adjustment - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old May 26th, 2012, 08:27 PM
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200tdi idle adjustment

After a longish drive today following an oil change to mobil1, I realized that my oil light is flickering at idle. Yes, there's plenty of oil. Giving it the slightest bit of throttle turns the light off. In lieu of spending5 minuteson google,I thought id ask here: where is the idle adjuster on a disco 200 tdi?
Thanks
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  #2  
Old May 26th, 2012, 10:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Abrooks View Post
After a longish drive today following an oil change to mobil1, I realized that my oil light is flickering at idle. Yes, there's plenty of oil. Giving it the slightest bit of throttle turns the light off. In lieu of spending5 minuteson google,I thought id ask here: where is the idle adjuster on a disco 200 tdi?
Thanks
I will not answer your question (because I dont know), but I will ask for a definition of "longish". Did you get your turn signals sorted? May pop by tmrw for those screws / show off the 90.
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  #3  
Old May 26th, 2012, 10:16 PM
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An hour or so, which is a long time for me! Yup, turn signals are started (not reverse though yet) and front suspension is all together.

Tomorrow afternoon is good, having a first birthday party for Zoe in the morning. Give me a buzz.
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Old May 27th, 2012, 04:01 AM
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There's a long threaded rod that the throttle lever stops against. Loosen the lock nut and wind the rod out a little.
Having said that the oil light shouldn't flicker at tick over, you might just be hiding a problem by upping the tick-over speed.
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  #5  
Old May 27th, 2012, 08:30 AM
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Well, since the idle feels a touch low, it's got a newer head and sounds perfect, I'll start with the idle adjustment. From the uk boards it sounds like these lights are temperamental.
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  #6  
Old May 27th, 2012, 11:14 AM
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Whats your engine tick over at? Should be around 900 rpm
I knocked my tick over a bit lower to around 700 - 750, saves a fractional amount of fuel when decelerating.
Every little helps.
Might just be a sticky pressure switch.
My oil pressure light flickered at tick-over on really hot days when I was in Morocco in 2004. Went away once back home in the UK and hasn't been a problem since. I always use flushing oil every other oil change.
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Old May 27th, 2012, 01:05 PM
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Don't have a tech yet but it feels like 700 or 750. My old 300 idled at 850 and was very happy. This might be the excuse I need to put a tach in. I still new to find the right sensor for the VDO temp gauge that's been sitting on the shelf for 5 months . . .
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  #8  
Old May 29th, 2012, 06:06 AM
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I notice lower oil pressures in older Rover diesel motors that are running inappropriate grade expensive synthetic oil. Had the same issue with oil lights flickering when engine running HOT but within range. Changed sensors to no avail. Changed oil to something more appropriate (regular ole' Rottella 15 /40) and no issues. Doesn't make that much sense in a perfect world. In the bizzaro world of OE it has happened numerous times.
Also......if the 200tdi rear main seal doesn't leak now just add some $55.00 gal Redline synthetic diesel oil at the next change and there you go......
I'm not all anti synthetic at all and run it in pretty much all my junk. Just some observation from the trenches.
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  #9  
Old May 29th, 2012, 09:44 AM
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Come to think I had the same problem with a 3.9 in an old RRC. Maybe that 5w40 Mobil 1 wasn't the best idea after all . . .

Thanks for the great reply, Matt.
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  #10  
Old May 29th, 2012, 10:07 AM
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My truck was showing these same issues. I replaced the sensor ($7), flushed the oil cooler in the rad, flushed the oil cooler lines and ran some seafoam through it.

It would still flash when hot.

Eventually i found a few common places for the 20tdi to loose oil pressure.

If you remove the font and rear side engine covers (one is the lift pump) you can see the camshaft and its bearings. Check to make sure that the cameshaft bearings are located correctly. Tuen out that sometimes they will "walk" and get partially mis-seated causing a low oil pressure situation when the oil does not flow into be bearing but out and over the side then down into the case.

Another are the two O rings that seal the vac pump. The vac pump is gear driven on a matched helical gearset, so when you unbolt it to replace the O rings mark the shaft's orientation so you can replace it matching the old wear pattern. There are 2 O rings and a paper gasket to replace. I also opened mine up and cleaned out the crud and relubed it with clean oil.

The third and most rear position you can be getting oil pressure from is the oil pump itself. There are two gears and a pump shaft that can wear out ( this takes huge mileage to happen tho). If the gears loose the sung fit they will not efficiently move oil, that can also be because the shaft has worn out on either side (also pretty rare)



Or it could just be a bad sensor, bad sensor wire, or too light of an oil

I use the Rotella T6 5/40 now, full syn and have no issues with my new engine. I used 15/40 Rotella before
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  #11  
Old May 29th, 2012, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Abrooks View Post
Come to think I had the same problem with a 3.9 in an old RRC. Maybe that 5w40 Mobil 1 wasn't the best idea after all . . .

Thanks for the great reply, Matt.
My old RRC did the same thing. Needed a little heavier weight and a genuine filter to stop it.
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  #12  
Old May 29th, 2012, 10:21 AM
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Of course, before I changed the oil (from the unknown Brit stuff that was in it), it never came on. I think Matt may have nailed it.

Now, do I dump out a crankcase full of mobil1 with 200 miles on it or just adjust the idle up until the next oil change?
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  #13  
Old May 29th, 2012, 10:55 AM
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I suggest dumping the oil immediately. It's cheaper than dealing with any potential long-term wear issues from running too low a dynamic viscosity on an old diesel engine. Replacing the top and bottom end bearings is not something that sounds fun - or low cost.

I find it amusing that the oil pressure light is considered a warning light. In my experience, once the oil pressure light is on, at least one bearing in the engine is toast.
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  #14  
Old May 29th, 2012, 11:05 AM
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Hmmm.... A 5W-40 is going to have the same running viscosity as a 15W-40... This is just a fact.

I would personally check actual oil pressure. I always run either a 0W-40 or 5W-40 and my oil analysis numbers are as good as any modern engine.
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Old May 29th, 2012, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
Hmmm.... A 5W-40 is going to have the same running viscosity as a 15W-40... This is just a fact.
Hey Red,

According to Mobil 1's own specs:

Mobil 1 0W40 has a viscosity of 75 cSt at 40 deg C and 13.5 cSt at 100 deg C.
Mobil 1 15W40 has a viscosity of 123 cSt at 40 deg C and 15.6 cSt at 100 deg C.

This corresponds to a viscosity difference of 64% at 40 deg C and 15% at 100 deg C.

As the idle temperature of the 200tdi is around 87 degrees C, I would imagine the difference in viscosity at idle to be greater than 15%. This, coupled with the decreased oil pressure found in older engines due to worn bearings and gerotor oil pump gears, could lead to a low oil pressure condition at idle.
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  #16  
Old May 29th, 2012, 11:43 AM
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The second number specifies the viscosity range at 100C. That is what is means... Once hot the oil is always around there. Once you are down to those sort of running viscosity numbers, the back pressure from pumping is not very dependent on viscosity.

If your pump or bearings are "worn", you have serious problems.
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  #17  
Old May 29th, 2012, 12:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Mobil 1 0W40 has a viscosity of 75 cSt at 40 deg C and 13.5 cSt at 100 deg C.
I must also hope NOBODY is using Mobil 1 in a diesel... If you are using Mobil, then you should be using Delvac 1 or TDT, with 14.7 and 14.9 cST@100C, although, like I say back pressure should not be very much affected at these low viscosity numbers. The visocosity is more critical for bearing film thickness.
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  #18  
Old May 29th, 2012, 06:51 PM
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Picked up some rotella on the way home, should make for a good experiment.
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Old May 29th, 2012, 07:10 PM
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For what it's worth, I run Rotella 15W40 in all my cars (that aren't new) - including the 110 Tdi, 90, 88, Volverati, etc.
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