200tdi Head gasket question - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old February 18th, 2013, 04:32 PM
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Todd Miller
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200tdi Head gasket question

So recently ve noticed a ticking sound like an exhaust leak. Lots of carbon around the turbo exhaust gaskets and on the hood above the turbo. When I start the engine a poof of smoke comes out fom around the turbo area.
I took it to a shop today and he say turbo gaskets fine, head gasket is blown. They sat can see oil shooting out the back of the head.
I've had no overheating, no coolant loss, no noticeable oil loss, no power loss.
What gives? Does this sound like a head gasket? Just a small leak waiting to explode?

Is this I DIY for a real novice with limited tools and experience? I don't even like changing my own oil and brake pads!
Advice as always greatly appreciated.
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  #2  
Old February 18th, 2013, 04:41 PM
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Can you see oil shooting out? Did they show you?

Verify that you can see what they claim.

If you don't like working on the truck then it's not a job for you ... and you won't get much change from $2k having a shop do it ... not great news i'm afraid.
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  #3  
Old February 18th, 2013, 05:11 PM
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Sounds like a manifold leak to me.

It is a very simple job to do a head gasket on one of these engines. Don't be scared by the last guy. It is maybe a 4 - 5 hour job.
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  #4  
Old February 18th, 2013, 06:08 PM
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I have not gone to the shop to let them show me the leak. I'll do that tomorrow. Had to just drop it off today. I'm not sure I will let these guys do the job. They have no LR experience although they do have a diesel guy. Guess I'll wait to hear the estimate.

As I said I'm no mechanic but it looks like a fairly straight forward job. Much easier access than the LR v8?

Btw how do I know which head gasket, 1,2, or 3 hole? Have to wait until he old ones off?
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  #5  
Old February 18th, 2013, 06:30 PM
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Sounds like a manifold gasket to me. Super easy to do and pretty cheap.


Oil on the back of the head could just be a simple leak from the valve cover, get it home and clean off the oil and start it and watch / listen for the leak.
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  #6  
Old February 18th, 2013, 06:31 PM
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Just from what you have described in your post, you REALLY do not want these people to work on your truck.

Seriously.
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  #7  
Old February 18th, 2013, 06:56 PM
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Cabell's 200 blew the head gasket on the other side of the head. He replaced it in a about 5 hrs by himself. Keep the push rods in the same order you take them out and adjust the valves before you button it up. Hardest part of the job is the right angle torque of the head bolts.
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  #8  
Old February 18th, 2013, 07:14 PM
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Do you guys recommend sending the head to a machine shop to check for cracks or to skim etc?
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  #9  
Old February 18th, 2013, 08:21 PM
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since its aluminum the only way to crack test it is pressurize it under water and most don't have the hardware to do that. If you need the truck put the gasket on and get back on the road.

If not I'd do a valve job.
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  #10  
Old February 18th, 2013, 08:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 130Tdi View Post
since its aluminum the only way to crack test it is pressurize it under water and most don't have the hardware to do that. If you need the truck put the gasket on and get back on the road.

If not I'd do a valve job.
Well then I guess I should do a timing belt too.
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  #11  
Old February 19th, 2013, 12:20 AM
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Wow, this sounds like me about 4 months ago...

The head gaskets on these Tdis are so simple that a shadetree mechanic with a sears 200 pc tool set can do it. Make sure you have the workshop manual.

As far as which gasket to get, look at you existing one. If you look between cylinders 3 and 4 on the right hand (passenger) side of the engine you will see a part of the gasket sticking out with the number of holes punched in it. If all you see is the gasket and no holes, then you have a "no hole" gasket.

Having been through this procedure at least 4 times now I can tell you it's nothing to be scared of. Ripping your engine apart seems daunting, but in the end it's not bad. Plus you have all of us here to answer questions.
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Old February 21st, 2013, 02:24 PM
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took it to another shop that deals with Rovers. estimate $1750 including all parts and to send head out and machine if needed. wow that's more than I wanted to spend. May have to try the DIY route.
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  #13  
Old May 13th, 2017, 09:40 AM
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Wow is this job really not that bad? I looked over a step by step on another site and it looks pretty scary to me...
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  #14  
Old May 13th, 2017, 10:06 AM
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Be sure to get an Elring brand gasket set
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  #15  
Old May 13th, 2017, 11:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnydakota View Post
Wow is this job really not that bad? I looked over a step by step on another site and it looks pretty scary to me...
Don't get overwhelmed. If you like, take pictures as you go and group things together. Use a piece of carcboard, punch holes in it and stick bolts and pushrods in it in the order and orientation of how they came out and label everything. Tighten it all back down in order that the manual tells you and to torque specs, and you are all set. Save yourself lots of $$
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  #16  
Old May 13th, 2017, 12:56 PM
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Have the head checked for cracks and surfaced, new valve guides, new valve seals and replace any valves that are suspect.
We always replace the bolts because they are torque to yield.
You'll see the number of holes in the right side of the gasket when you order a Elring brand gasket set as suggested by Richard.
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  #17  
Old May 13th, 2017, 04:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
Have the head checked for cracks and surfaced, new valve guides, new valve seals and replace any valves that are suspect.
We always replace the bolts because they are torque to yield.
You'll see the number of holes in the right side of the gasket when you order a Elring brand gasket set as suggested by Richard.
No you dont
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  #18  
Old May 17th, 2017, 11:24 PM
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Pretty sure the manual states bolts can be re-used a number of times as long as they do not appear stretched or otherwise compromised.

I have done this enough times now that I won't bother putting the head back on unless its been to a machine shop to get checked. Unless there is a compelling reason to not do so, for instance changing the head gasket at a rest stop in the middle of a 500 mile trip. Not that I did that exactly.

I usually just go with what the shop says, if valve guides and so forth are ok I'll leave them be. Lap the valves at a minimum and skim if needed. Always change the valve guide seals.

And whatever you do, don't use the metal gaskets....

My 300 tdi blew the HG between the # cylinder and the firewall. Probably what you ar eexperiencing. Sounded like a Stanley Steamer. Literally a WTF moment cruising happily along, and the thing just started chuffing like mad. No noticeable loss of power (on the flat anyway) and no overheating or coolant loss.

Pretty sure there's a thread on here about that particular experience.
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Old May 18th, 2017, 07:23 PM
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what happened with the mls gasket?

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Old July 17th, 2017, 12:08 PM
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So I've been looking at the specs for the Victor Reinz MLS headgaskets and it looks like they specify a maximum surface roughness of Rz ≤ 15 μm, and Rmax ≤ 20 μm.

Using an ISO Rz to Ra conversion factor of 7.6, that is equivalent to an Ra ≤ 1.97 μm.

That's pretty darn smooth. Like very slow surface milling with a vertical mill, or using a surface grinder.

I can see why Dave recommends against it.
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