200tdi engine knock video halp!!!1 - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old July 31st, 2011, 04:12 PM
Naplm00
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Angry 200tdi engine knock video halp!!!1

well on my way back up from a trip to delaware I was crusing at 60 mph on the highway in 5th. I started to hear a tapping noise coming from the engine bay. It then within a moment or two of me noting the tapping becomes much louder, a knock. I pull over and cut it.

Oil and coolant mixed under valve cover, knocking gets louder and follows the speed of the engine. No smoke from tailpipe, no odd smells, oil pressure is fine at idle and when running with knock. Engine still has power.

I pulled off the valve cover and all the rockers are fine, all the push rods seem straight and the valve train functions quietly while cranking with the fuel soleniod disconnected.

Had an oil change the day before i left with Rotella T6 syn and a new mann filter. Coolant level is fine and oil level is fine. Truck has a history of using coolant and a flickering oil pressure light when at idle and the engine is hot

Video is attached.

wtf

http://youtu.be/JPqRkk2de0U
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  #2  
Old July 31st, 2011, 05:25 PM
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oil/water foam in valve cover=very bad
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Old July 31st, 2011, 08:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 130Tdi View Post
oil/water foam in valve cover=very bad


I'm less worried about that, since I know its just a HG. The knocking is so damn loud its terrifying
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Old July 31st, 2011, 08:51 PM
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Something has let go.
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Old July 31st, 2011, 09:27 PM
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I have heard of pre-detonation causing the knock?
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Old July 31st, 2011, 10:42 PM
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I've seen a head gasket failure on a 200tdi cause water to enter a cylinder and bend a con rod.
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Old July 31st, 2011, 11:52 PM
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Well a bad injector or more can make a knock like big end bearings letting go. If you are confident that the HG has not gone on and helped destroy the engine. You could have the spray pattern checked on the injectors. Did you fill with petrol by accident?

Coolant in the engine lubrication will make a short life of your bearings. Better get it sorted after you work through this problem. Unless it already has.
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Old August 1st, 2011, 02:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pendy View Post
Well a bad injector or more can make a knock like big end bearings letting go. If you are confident that the HG has not gone on and helped destroy the engine. You could have the spray pattern checked on the injectors. Did you fill with petrol by accident?

Coolant in the engine lubrication will make a short life of your bearings. Better get it sorted after you work through this problem. Unless it already has.
I thought I had this problem once... while I was speeding the engine up and down and listening with an engine stethoscope looking for the bad injector everything suddenly went to hell. Turned out it was a con rod nut that had fallen off and the remaining stud didn't like me messing with the engine, wrote the whole block off.
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Old August 1st, 2011, 07:43 AM
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The low oil pressure switch for the idiot light is 7psi so if you only have 7psi @ idle and a signifigant knock I would would be looking @ rod bearings.
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Old August 1st, 2011, 07:46 AM
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NA cycled the head, valvetrain is fine and operates smoothly. Knock is coming from lower in the block
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  #11  
Old August 1st, 2011, 08:03 AM
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I'd go along with Doug, and like Pendy said it doesn't take much coolant in the oil before you see rod damage. You'll be having a look inside.
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Old August 1st, 2011, 09:20 AM
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Yea I'm thinking the same
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Old August 1st, 2011, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Naplm00 View Post
I'm less worried about that, since I know its just a HG.
Maybe, maybe not. Coolant in your lubrication system is an extremely serious condition and not always due to a failed gasket.
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Old August 1st, 2011, 10:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Naplm00 View Post
Oil and coolant mixed under valve cover, knocking gets louder and follows the speed of the engine. No smoke from tailpipe, no odd smells, oil pressure is fine at idle and when running with knock. Engine still has power.
Loud low pitch knock = rod big end bearing
Loud high pitch whipcrack = rod little end bearing

Typically oil + coolant will result in dispersion of oil film lubrication at the bearing surface. When that's the case, the bearings will melt out.

Don't drive it anymore. If you're lucky you'll just need to change all the bearings in the engine.
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Old August 1st, 2011, 10:23 AM
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When I pull the head ill check under and see what cyl or cyls are full of water if any. Can the rods/pistons be removed with the engine in place? by disconnecting with the pan off?

I feel like if i have bottom end issues this large it may be better to just get a new long block
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Old August 1st, 2011, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Naplm00 View Post
When I pull the head ill check under and see what cyl or cyls are full of water if any. Can the rods/pistons be removed with the engine in place? by disconnecting with the pan off?
Doesn't need to be full of water, just enough to melt bearings. Probably need to check if your coolant leak was a cracked block or bad headgasket.

I've done big end bearings before on Toyotas from below by pulling the reinforcing crossmember and oil pan.

There's no crossmember on a 200tdi, so pulling the oil pan should allow you to pull the bearing caps and remove the rods/pistons.

You still have the problem of the main bearings, you'll probably have to remove the tranny for that.

Back to the original problem - if you had a cracked block, then you might as well get a long block and save yourself some effort
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  #17  
Old August 1st, 2011, 10:55 AM
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Ill let you guys know, after I pull the head
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Old August 1st, 2011, 01:15 PM
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The ladder frame prevents the inspection and removal of the big ends from below. In addition to being bolted to the block the ladder frame should have four bolts that come in from the flywheel housing so the engine and transmission have to be parted from each other to remove the ladder frame from the block to allow access to the big ends.

However, in some tdi conversions the four bolts from the flywheel housing are over looked and you might not have them in place, in which case you can remove the ladder frame without parting the engine and transmission. Also if a con rod is bent it will not come out of the block with having part of the bottom cut off first. They are a very tight fit in the cylinder and any bend will prevent the bottom end of the rod from being moved back up the bore the way it came in. I've been through this.
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Old August 1st, 2011, 02:34 PM
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I agree the 200 tdi is a real headache to try and work on in situ. Just pull it out. If that is the direction this takes.

The water in the lubrication system needs to be addressed.

But just have the injector spray patterns checked and mark their order to rule out this as a problem and then look into the damage done to the engine with coolant seeping in. It would be more correct in the oder of things to be repaired.

You can have the oil tested for content of bearing material "melted off" as well to get an idea of where you stand with it.
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  #20  
Old August 1st, 2011, 03:00 PM
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Yea ill be sending some of the oil soup mix to Blackstone for metals. I figured this would be the easy way to find if I toasted a bearing without a full teardown
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