2008 Puma 110 Defender - interior lights stay on in 'Auto' setting - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old December 26th, 2015, 07:17 PM
agentmulder
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2008 Puma 110 Defender - interior lights stay on in 'Auto' setting

Hello All,
  • Using 'Auto' mode both rear and front interior lights are staying on when all doors shut.
  • The alarm will not beep at me when I arm it (indicating door switches may well be OK).
  • 'Off' mode switches lamp off.
  • When I manually depress a door switche the lamps will dim slightly. (this is interesting yeah?)

I've read a few forum threads regarding this issue but the symptoms and car model are different and/or the discussion never comes to a clear resolution.

Common topics include: door switches, multi-function units (MFU) and corrosion causing spurious electrical connections.

Defender is 90,000kMs and mostly clean, but I do suspect it's done a bit of rough and wet work with previous owners.

I'm pulling apart the front to access the clutch assembly tomorrow (swap out master cylinder) - I figure it's the best time to also deal with footwell leaks and now this dang lighting issue.

Any experience on how to access the parts and any good diagnostics would be greatly appreciated!
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  #2  
Old December 26th, 2015, 07:23 PM
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Brian
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Sorry no help from me, have to wait until 2033 to experience the joy of this problem.

I'm sure someone here can offer a potential solution, but maybe try one of the UK-based forums as well??
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  #3  
Old December 26th, 2015, 09:36 PM
jwb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LostChord View Post
Sorry no help from me, have to wait until 2033 to experience the joy of this problem.

I'm sure someone here can offer a potential solution, but maybe try one of the UK-based forums as well??
You don't have to wait that long, the puma 10AS is the same as on late 90s Discos and subsequent TD5s.

Were any of the dome lights replaced with LEDs? If not, my guess is a bad door plunger switch or broken wire. This would result in the perimeter security not arming, but volumetric security immobilizer would still work.
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  #4  
Old December 26th, 2015, 10:05 PM
agentmulder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwb View Post
Were any of the dome lights replaced with LEDs? If not, my guess is a bad door plunger switch or broken wire. This would result in the perimeter security not arming, but volumetric security immobilizer would still work.
LEDs fitted? No.

Hrrrm, just searched for perimeter and volumetric. Didn't know they had volumetric...

Ok, so usually when I try to arm it the alarm will remind me with a 'beep-beep' when a door sensor is still connected - i.e. an actual door is 'open'. (a closed door should disconnect the circuit).

This same 'door open/door switch connected to frame/ground' state is what should trigger the 'auto' interior lamps to remain lit.

(Please don't confuse door open with open circuit like I have a couple of times in writing this )

As you're aware, they remain lit - however, in this faulty state I should also be hearing the 'beep beep' from the alarm (I've experienced this behaviour before)

This to me indicates it is the 'auto' mode and/or lamp electric at fault, and not the door signals. (no?)

Another relevant piece of the puzzle is the slight dimming on the lamps when I manually trigger all 5 door switches with the relevant door (singular) still open (making the system think it is closed) - at the least I can say that the door switches are individually and independently triggering the same apparent system response.
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  #5  
Old December 27th, 2015, 08:19 AM
jwb
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The volumetric motion sensors are on the B pillar near roof. By the way, in my original response there should be an "and" between volumetric and immobilizer as they are separate security capabilities.

I recall reading something where a faulty or mis-programmed 10AS could cause interior light issues. Try disconnecting the battery for 10 min and see it temporarily fixes the issue. If not, you can also disconnect the 10AS (green ECU box behind passenger speaker) and see if lights go off...obviously the truck won't start either but it will confirm if the 10AS is the problem.

Good luck
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  #6  
Old December 27th, 2015, 08:28 AM
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The volumetric sensors may not be hooked up either. They are a holdover from earlier models and are still "there" to 2016 models due to LR using old stock. Above the pax seat.
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  #7  
Old December 27th, 2015, 08:38 AM
jwb
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Originally Posted by Jonesy View Post
The volumetric sensors may not be hooked up either. They are a holdover from earlier models and are still "there" to 2016 models due to LR using old stock. Above the pax seat.
The motion sensors are hooked up and work when they leave the factory. If disconnected, the perimeter security and immobilizer will still function; disconnecting does not effect the behavior of interior lights. Common for folks to disconnect the motion sensors for car camping or dogs.
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  #8  
Old December 28th, 2015, 06:39 PM
agentmulder
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Master Cylinder housing sure is a pain in the rear to get out...

Had to disconnect some electrics and all sorts of weird stuff is going on. So I worked backwards until it was good (didn't want an alarm going that I couldn't stop) and then disconnected the battery neg.

Anyways, I guess I'm doing the "disconnecting the battery for 10 min and see it temporarily fixes the issue" thing.

Now I wonder if I can swap out the master cylinder and bleed the hydraulics in 10mins

The work continues...
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  #9  
Old December 28th, 2015, 07:03 PM
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Robert Lynch
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Good to know they never solved the footwell leaks..

use DumDum to seal it..

Al & Ed's Autosound - 3M Tapes and Chemicals Strip Calk (Dum Dum)


i need to do my throttle peddle area now..
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  #10  
Old December 29th, 2015, 09:42 PM
agentmulder
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UGH

So, in fixing the master cylinder I reinstalled the clutch sensor and torqued it up too much and sheared the "Clutch Banjo BOLT SYG500020" right through.

Super bad time of the year as all the parts people are on holiday - scrounged around the two wreckers yeards that were still open. Found one - woohoo! - but unfortunately for me it was on the wreckers personal machine ...

Met some nice chaps, super eager to get me rolling by bypassing the sensor, but three attempts at this were all mired by screw thread mismatches.

Got to have a look around the only Camel Trophy Discovery in NZ through so the day wasn't wasted.

Battery still disconnected, do you think 10days will be enough to reset the electronics?
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  #11  
Old January 24th, 2016, 08:08 PM
agentmulder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwb View Post
Try disconnecting the battery for 10 min and see it temporarily fixes the issue. If not, you can also disconnect the 10AS (green ECU box behind passenger speaker) and see if lights go off...obviously the truck won't start either but it will confirm if the 10AS is the problem.
Good luck
Disconnected the battery for 3 weeks () - lights still faulty...

Thanks for the tip - will try this next!
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