2005 LR3 on Bumpstops! - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old September 23rd, 2017, 08:37 AM
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Derek Borror
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2005 LR3 on Bumpstops!

I have Proud Rhino lift rods on this truck.

Chasing down a suspension fault, got a good deal on all LR height sensors so replaced the front two...suspension fault still.

Change the rear two....mother trucker drops to the bump stops and I get the full monty red suspension fault icon and the nav screen shows the rears red and blinking below the tires.

I jacked up the rear prob 4 or 5 inches...same thing. Suspension fault - max speed 30 mph.

So, one of my questions is do I have to jack the front up with rear to get the sensors to register?

I double checked the rear height sensor connections when I did the install.

Derek
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  #2  
Old September 23rd, 2017, 08:44 AM
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Chris
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Get the suspension codes read. Playing guessing games is expensive if you don't get it right.
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A friend of mine runs a land rover / range rover specialty repair shop. Based on his experience, they are capable of stopping anywhere, anytime, at any cost.

I don't know about the brakes, only their unreliability.
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  #3  
Old September 23rd, 2017, 10:04 AM
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Time for a change to the AB spring kit, no more worrisome air.
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Still looking for that place where I can carry a paddle and get asked what's that.

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  #4  
Old September 23rd, 2017, 10:20 AM
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Do you have it set in "Drive By" mode?
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  #5  
Old September 23rd, 2017, 10:59 AM
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GAP tool is your friend
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  #6  
Old September 23rd, 2017, 03:51 PM
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Doug Huibregtse
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rovertrader View Post
GAP tool is your friend
2nd the GAP tool.

You cant swap sensors without calibrating the new ones.

I would personally never switch to coils, the EAS isn't really that tricky or expensive to repair - especially compared to the cost of a coil swap.

I've been able to repair or rebuild valve blocks, compressor, and a few lines for a grand total of $40 all while completely solving the issues as they arise.
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  #7  
Old September 23rd, 2017, 04:25 PM
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Bill Adams
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You'll hate the way the truck rides on steel springs.
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Bill Adams

1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
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All my troubles are Rover
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  #8  
Old September 23rd, 2017, 05:29 PM
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Ray Gerber
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
You'll hate the way the truck rides on steel springs.


Odd. That hasn't been my experience at all.


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  #9  
Old September 23rd, 2017, 06:38 PM
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Was hoping you would turn up Ray
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Edward Teach is the Blackbeard, and is a member of the Birmabright Brotherhood.

Still looking for that place where I can carry a paddle and get asked what's that.

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57 LR 88" SXF 858
85 LR90
95 D1 Tdi
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97 XK8 BRG FHC For Sale
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  #10  
Old September 23rd, 2017, 07:12 PM
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Ray Gerber
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roverman2010 View Post
Was hoping you would turn up Ray
Ha, I lurk!
I posted reflections of the conversion on that other site (https://******/showthread.php?t=175) but the reader's digest version basically boils down to where the truck is in its lifespan, and intended usage.

The commentary about it ruining the ride and such is extremely subjective-and I have often found not necessarily based on first hand experience. Or, to counter it with anecdotal but first hand experience, my conversion at ~100k mi lended to a better ride (it doesn't feel like it wallows like it does with EAS). This anecdotal observation was shared first by my wife, and then a fellow LR3 owner and his sig other who, when the time came to do serious suspension work, opted for the conversion too.

The idea that you can cheaply maintain the EAS can be true-or it can be very false. To be sure some could take the road of replacing the components in the Hitachi and see it last for another ~100k/10yrs, do some maint to EAS blocks, and that can all be done cheaply.

Most seem to advocate for the upgrade to the AMK when the compressor dies (b/c it will die) and these days that is starting to happen about when the air bagged struts are really hitting the end of their life (if the air bags aren't, the dampers are) and thus now your costs could well exceed a coil conversion.

Nevermind that mine doesn't go to the bump stops anymore for brake lights, brake switches, water ingress b/c of the horrible cowling design, backed up sunroof drains, etc. Even when that stuff happens-it still drives just fine.

Is it perfect? Nope. Less optimal for towing, though I will be interested to see what happens now that I put the HD rear coils in the back when I bring the S1 to MAR. Also doesn't have access height so if I had to creep low, get my grandma into it, etc...not perfect.

But it is one less variable that I have to worry about that and it made sense in my application.

What it didn't do was ruin the truck, which is what you often hear on the august pages of Facebook. My fav qoute was when someone said "don't swap to coils, EAS is what makes the Rover a Rover, if you want coils just get a jeep." The lack of historical knowledge was rather stunning...

Oh, and def get an IID tool.
r-
Ray
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  #11  
Old September 23rd, 2017, 09:43 PM
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Jeff Payne
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Any chance you just replaced a battery or otherwise disconnected power? Turn the steering wheel lock to lock in order to recalibrate the steering angle sensor.
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  #12  
Old September 24th, 2017, 08:34 PM
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Derek Borror
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GAP tool is my friend. Rear sensor faults (to begin with) were the biggest concern. Turns out you CAN put the left real sensor on the right rear wheel..and it makes a difference. Swapped em...jacked the left side of the vehicle up, turned it on and it came alive and off the bump stops. Still get a suspension fault (just the yellow warning light) randomly but will track down that gremlin with the gap too. Thanks all for the recommendations and comments.

------ Follow up post added September 24th, 2017 08:35 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Daddymow View Post
Do you have it set in "Drive By" mode?
I am not that far from Durham!
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