I am seeing two different radiators that say they are made for Defender 90 with 200tdi. one appears to be be around 80-100 and the other between 300-800. I am guessing I am not going to be lucky enough to go for the cheaper one. My current one is leaking pretty bad.
BTP1823S should be the part number. I am seeing aftermarket (Bearmach) for about $140 + shipping. I think this one has plastic end tanks, not that it should make a big difference. I don't know of any all metal aftermarket other then Allisport which is around $475.
Errr gotcha. Not sure about that. My truck has an HA VIN. I would wait for others to chime in to find out the difference, it can't be that different.... It MIGHT be the oil cooler fittings? I know they changed at some point.
Has to do with the chassis number of your truck. If the 200 is original to your truck buy the that corresponding rad by the part number/serial date code.
Most likely the difference is just the oil cooler thread or attachment type. Both can be adapted.
Do you have this rad? I am not opposed to a Chinese aluminum radiator instead of a plastic tanked Bearmach so long as it is good quality. Some of that stuff is hit or miss. I suspect my truck could use a new rad as it starts to warm up a little after long hard highway drive
I see this one too. It is a good bit more money (once we find out what shipping from UK for the other is)
I was shopping for radiators as I think mine is due, I noticed an ebay ad for the BTP1823S rad on ebay that stated the following:
"This radiator will also physically fit in a 200Tdi Defender, however, it is 7-8mm thinner and has one row less in the core (Defender requires 4 row core), so the cooling efficiency is reduced
For this reason we cannot offer a warranty if fitted to a Defender"
It appears to the a usual Bearmach/Britpart/Allmakes. Is this true? Maybe more incentive to do the aluminum
I have suspected an issue with my cooling system for a few weeks now. I thought maybe it was just my fan coupling, and while worn, didn't really make a difference. I just bit the bullet and ordered Bearmach cooling hoses, radiator, and water pump. Also OEM headgasket kit. I was going to go for the aluminum radiator but somethings gotta give, been spending too much on this truck as of late.
Adam, re OE gasket, consider composite and have the head inspected, freshen the valves and you might want to get new head bolts. Your truck is so nice the HB may be fine.
ERR5263G (Elring 1.5mm gasket)
STC1172G (Elring headgasket accessory kit, turbo gaskets, valve seals etc)
"OEM" Head bolt set (was only $30)
Injector lower copper washers
Injector banjo bolt kit for spill rail
I don't want to take any chances. I am going to bring the head to a machine shop to get cleaned and decked at the minimum. Hopefully it is in good condition.
I don't think my headgasket is totally gone, or might be fine and it could just be my radiator. I just don't want to deal with it. The truck will get up to 205-210 if I keep my foot in it on the highway at 70ish. Long highway drives it starts to heat up. Around town it sits 190-195. No smoke aside from the typical black puff on startup. When I did a compression test, all cylinders had 400psi, but #4 was the slower then the rest to get to 400. I just want it running mint and reliable when the nice whether comes. We are hoping to do a camping trip in Maine.
I will hopefully have the head off by end of this weekend. Ill start removing accessories this evening. I will post pics for sure.
Should I have ordered the newer part number LVB500220? All I saw for that was "OEM" or Victor Reinz. I had always heard Elring was the way to go for gaskets on these trucks...
Do you need to use a thicker headgasket when you skim the head on these or is there enough piston to valve clearance where it is a non issue? I can't see a skim really making a difference.
You're in good shape. The metal gasket I first used had a defect. One of the coolant holes did not line up and I didn't catch it until the truck was put back together. The composite lines up perfectly and I have no leaks. While it was off I had the head decked just for piece of mind. My engine runs in the high 180's low 90's at the block on hot days.
Okay well the link above shows my vin number the link bellow is what my radiator looks like, Maybe I am being thickheaded here but I am wondering if my 1991 Defender 90 was originally a 2.5 that was later converted to a 200?
https://goo.gl/photos/nfAAhGDwsvCcKUWs9 Okay well the link above shows my vin number the link bellow is what my radiator looks like, Maybe I am being thickheaded here but I am wondering if my 1991 Defender 90 was originally a 2.5 that was later converted to a 200? https://goo.gl/Wxh3cy
My 91' is also an HA VIN. It was built 10/1990. Just get the part number I ordered. That is the one you need. The other is for JA and forward VIN. I'll post some pictures next week when mine gets here and I install. Your truck came with a 200 originally, everything checks out. The other picture is showing the intercooler and radiator.
Ill have those pics for you tomorrow. Somehow my order of 38 items placed yesterday morning from UK will be here tomorrow. I need to get this head off and to the machine shop ASAP.
honestly idk, but seemed like a nice thing to have done at the time. also, if I were to do it again I'd given them the valve cover to clean up spiffy too. mine looks like someone shat on it.
Good call. I thought this was interesting. I am going to measure protrusion just in case.
1 hole 1.30mm ----- ERR5261 for piston protrusion between 0.50 to 0.60mm
2 hole 1.40mm ----- ERR5262 --------------------------------- 0.61 to 0.70mm
3 hole 1.50mm ----- ERR5263 --------------------------------- 0.71 to 0.80mm
NO holes 1.60mm -- ERR7154 ------------ if higher than 0.80mm use the NO HOLE gasket.
------ Follow up post added March 1st, 2017 02:36 PM ------
Sorry OP for hijacking your thread. But you may be going down this road soon anyway.
I don't have a valve spring tool. I have a habit of losing keepers. I guess ill just have the machine shop do the seals too. Just afraid of the one thing leads to another when in reality I might be doing all of this because of a bunk radiator.
I adjusted the valve lash only a couple months ago, everything looked OK but ill double check.
Thanks for the advice guys.
Fiance is going to kill me when she sees all these boxes showing up. She hates my truck.... praying she is at work when my Ashcroft pallet gets here on Tuesday...
Me: "Babe I think my head gasket went on the truck"
So head is off. Pretty straight forward, biggest pain was the turbo etc. Also my intake manifold gasket was cracked on two cylinders, so good that I am replacing that.
Not really sure if the HG was blown or not. I circled a suspect area in green. Looks like where a cooling passage was blown through close to cylinder 4. Thoughts?
Also when I removed the rocker assembly there was a dowel sitting in the cap. I SUSPECT it goes on the under the last (#4) rocker bolt. Anyone?
Going to bring the head down to machine shop today to get freshened up.
I would doubt it. If you get a coolant leak into a cylinder, it fills up after you shut down the engine and hydrolocks. Interesting gasket without the coolant holes between the cylinders.
Yes, the dowel is at the #4 end to locate the rocker shaft. Oil comes up the #1 end bolt. Note where the oil flows into and through the head to make sure the passages are clean on assembly. It is the little hole in the block at #1 end on the lifter side. Also watch the little coolant passages on the head between the lifters. You see those plugged on engine with dirty coolant.
Passages: Ok ill check the oil passages and stuff when I get head back
Lifters: These are by the camshaft?
I was thinking I might have had exhaust gas going into the coolant under full boost, thus heating it up. When I am on the highway at 65-70 the truck is doing 10-12lbs of boost.
victor reinz manufactures the MLS seal. A MLS is not just a few pieces of steel. In between each layer is a sealing compound in addition to whatever is on the top and bottom surfaces.
Not poo pooing the composites, but the Reinz MLS is made to seal.
She's alive. Fresh radiator, oil lines, water pump, thermostat, headgasket, oil change, fuel filter yadda yadda
All seems to be well and good, however I feel like I hear this extra slight knocking type noise that I can't pin point where it is coming from. It doesn't seem to increase with RPM. I wonder if it just from getting the intake manifold all sealed up vs how it was before with the leaking gasket I might pop the rocker cover off again tomorrow to make sure the lash is proper still. Otherwise seems to be running very good. Haven't had the chance to take it out on the highway yet, just around the block as it is stupid cold out right now and the bonnet is stashed away in my basement.
Congrats Adam. You've gotten to know your truck inside and out in a pretty short period of time. Bring that thing down to Wintergreen Virginia for the Rover event Easter weekend. I need to see it, hear it and drive it.
Haha we will see what happens. Need to get my transmission installed first.
I put a couple hundred miles on the truck yesterday. Hauling ass on the highway upwards of 75mph. Temp never went above 189 (instead of the 205-210 it would creep up to), as low as 180. Perfect.
Also having an EGT gauge is super useful, max EGT on a long climbing hill pinned in 5th gear on highway max EGT was 1250, no smoke, doing about 70mph at that point. In fact the truck doesn't ever smoke now except for a puff on start up (vs how horrible it was before my injectors got rebuilt). EGT probe is right in the turbo manifold collector. Is this right? I guess my truck has had the pump adjusted? I think I am going to get a larger factory location intercooler one of these days.
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